Heater/Blower Motor Relay Assembly
#1
Heater/Blower Motor Relay Assembly
Can someone tell me where the blower motor relay is located at?I'm having a problem with the high on my blower. The setting for low and med work but i get nothing went switched to high!
Parts #TR15885
Thanks in Advance
Parts #TR15885
Thanks in Advance
#2
If this is for your 72 Cutlass, the relay will be over the brake booster.
There should be a thick wire going to the junction block with an inline fuse holder - check those before replacing the relay. If there are splices in the wiring, they better be in good shape and be soldered. If the fuse holder was bypassed, replace it.
With engine off, key in RUN, switch from med-high to high and you should hear a click from the relay.
See what you get...
There should be a thick wire going to the junction block with an inline fuse holder - check those before replacing the relay. If there are splices in the wiring, they better be in good shape and be soldered. If the fuse holder was bypassed, replace it.
With engine off, key in RUN, switch from med-high to high and you should hear a click from the relay.
See what you get...
#4
If this is for your 72 Cutlass, the relay will be over the brake booster.
There should be a thick wire going to the junction block with an inline fuse holder - check those before replacing the relay. If there are splices in the wiring, they better be in good shape and be soldered. If the fuse holder was bypassed, replace it.
With engine off, key in RUN, switch from med-high to high and you should hear a click from the relay.
See what you get...
There should be a thick wire going to the junction block with an inline fuse holder - check those before replacing the relay. If there are splices in the wiring, they better be in good shape and be soldered. If the fuse holder was bypassed, replace it.
With engine off, key in RUN, switch from med-high to high and you should hear a click from the relay.
See what you get...
#7
The coil of the relay is good, as well as the dash switch.
There should be a thick wire going from the blower relay to the horn relay-junction block. The inline fuseholder should be there (unless somone removed it.)
Either that fuse is bad, the holder bad, the wiring open, or the blower relay contacts are bad.
Take a look again for the fuseholder - hope it is still there...
There should be a thick wire going from the blower relay to the horn relay-junction block. The inline fuseholder should be there (unless somone removed it.)
Either that fuse is bad, the holder bad, the wiring open, or the blower relay contacts are bad.
Take a look again for the fuseholder - hope it is still there...
#8
The coil of the relay is good, as well as the dash switch.
There should be a thick wire going from the blower relay to the horn relay-junction block. The inline fuseholder should be there (unless somone removed it.)
Either that fuse is bad, the holder bad, the wiring open, or the blower relay contacts are bad.
Take a look again for the fuseholder - hope it is still there...
There should be a thick wire going from the blower relay to the horn relay-junction block. The inline fuseholder should be there (unless somone removed it.)
Either that fuse is bad, the holder bad, the wiring open, or the blower relay contacts are bad.
Take a look again for the fuseholder - hope it is still there...
That did the trick guys thanks.....but now setting mid high i get nothing every other setting works.I even replaced the relay!This is really starting to get on my nerves!
#9
You didn't loose any of the smoke out of the switch or relay did you?
The resident Classic Oldsmobile electrical experts say that once that happens they're shot.
Fuses are about as deep as I go.
#10
The coil of the relay is good, as well as the dash switch.
There should be a thick wire going from the blower relay to the horn relay-junction block. The inline fuseholder should be there (unless somone removed it.)
Either that fuse is bad, the holder bad, the wiring open, or the blower relay contacts are bad.
Take a look again for the fuseholder - hope it is still there...
There should be a thick wire going from the blower relay to the horn relay-junction block. The inline fuseholder should be there (unless somone removed it.)
Either that fuse is bad, the holder bad, the wiring open, or the blower relay contacts are bad.
Take a look again for the fuseholder - hope it is still there...
You didn't loose any of the smoke out of the switch or relay did you?
The resident Classic Oldsmobile electrical experts say that once that happens they're shot.
Nope not a spark! Since you mentioned smoke I think I'll drink a beer and have a smoke on this one!
Fuses are about as deep as I go.
#11
It is a little tricky to get to but possible.
#12
Rob,
I know this is an older thread but I'm hoping you can help.
I have the same prob as Boh2k. Blower works on 3 low speeds but nothing on high. When switching from med to high the relay by the PB booster clicks. So far, so good
So I've found the in line fuse. Now for the big question: How do I get the in-line fuse holder apart so I can check the fuse. So far I've remain calm, but I'm out of ideas.
Thanks.
I know this is an older thread but I'm hoping you can help.
I have the same prob as Boh2k. Blower works on 3 low speeds but nothing on high. When switching from med to high the relay by the PB booster clicks. So far, so good
So I've found the in line fuse. Now for the big question: How do I get the in-line fuse holder apart so I can check the fuse. So far I've remain calm, but I'm out of ideas.
Thanks.
#13
What model/year is this car? I just had the same thing happen on my '73 Custom Cruiser. The three lowest fan speeds work, but the highest doesn't.
Have you done the troubleshooting check in the service manual? Does your car have a rear window defogger? If the answer to the latter question is yes and you haven't done the troubleshooting checks in the manual, don't automatically assume that the problem is the fuse. I ran through the troubleshooting sequence for my car, and it's the same for Cutlass for 1973, and the problem points to a failed relay, not a failed fuse. In my case, it was the "hi-blower cutout relay" that failed. I've just ordered a replacement, and it won't be until after I get that and put it in that I'll know for sure if this was the problem.
There is a separate blower motor troubleshooting section in the '73 manual for cars that have both a manual A/C system (not Comfortron) and a rear window defogger.
Have you done the troubleshooting check in the service manual? Does your car have a rear window defogger? If the answer to the latter question is yes and you haven't done the troubleshooting checks in the manual, don't automatically assume that the problem is the fuse. I ran through the troubleshooting sequence for my car, and it's the same for Cutlass for 1973, and the problem points to a failed relay, not a failed fuse. In my case, it was the "hi-blower cutout relay" that failed. I've just ordered a replacement, and it won't be until after I get that and put it in that I'll know for sure if this was the problem.
There is a separate blower motor troubleshooting section in the '73 manual for cars that have both a manual A/C system (not Comfortron) and a rear window defogger.
#14
What model/year is this car? I just had the same thing happen on my '73 Custom Cruiser. The three lowest fan speeds work, but the highest doesn't.
Have you done the troubleshooting check in the service manual? Does your car have a rear window defogger? If the answer to the latter question is yes and you haven't done the troubleshooting checks in the manual, don't automatically assume that the problem is the fuse. I ran through the troubleshooting sequence for my car, and it's the same for Cutlass for 1973, and the problem points to a failed relay, not a failed fuse. In my case, it was the "hi-blower cutout relay" that failed. I've just ordered a replacement, and it won't be until after I get that and put it in that I'll know for sure if this was the problem.
There is a separate blower motor troubleshooting section in the '73 manual for cars that have both a manual A/C system (not Comfortron) and a rear window defogger.
Have you done the troubleshooting check in the service manual? Does your car have a rear window defogger? If the answer to the latter question is yes and you haven't done the troubleshooting checks in the manual, don't automatically assume that the problem is the fuse. I ran through the troubleshooting sequence for my car, and it's the same for Cutlass for 1973, and the problem points to a failed relay, not a failed fuse. In my case, it was the "hi-blower cutout relay" that failed. I've just ordered a replacement, and it won't be until after I get that and put it in that I'll know for sure if this was the problem.
There is a separate blower motor troubleshooting section in the '73 manual for cars that have both a manual A/C system (not Comfortron) and a rear window defogger.
I did do some trouble shooting (switch OK, resister OK, the hi speed relay by the brake booster makes a click when switching to high speed).
Soooo... low and behold when I finally got the in-line fuse holder apart (without loosing my patients I might add) it was defunct. Put in a new 30amp and BooYah, blowin on high speed.
Thanks for your input anyway. If it wasn't the fuse I was goin your route with the relay replacement
#15
Sounds like it was just stuck together. Just make sure the holder was not melted, burned or had its contacts pitted. If you, the holder would need repair or replacement depending on condition.
#16
Hey all, I'm glad I found this thread because I'm in the same boat. I replaced all the wiring in my 70 Cutlass S and there was no fuse in that in-line holder. The Chassis Service Manual says "30 amp fuse" but doesn't specify a part number. I've tried the ones I can find at the parts store (AGC30, SFE30) but they're too long. What fuse goes in there?
#17
Hey all, I'm glad I found this thread because I'm in the same boat. I replaced all the wiring in my 70 Cutlass S and there was no fuse in that in-line holder. The Chassis Service Manual says "30 amp fuse" but doesn't specify a part number. I've tried the ones I can find at the parts store (AGC30, SFE30) but they're too long. What fuse goes in there?
Glad you found the thread helpful. The guys on Classic Oldsmobile are amazing. The in-line fuse was the problem with mine and I was ready to replace a hole buncha stuff.
Anyway, the fuse you need is an AGA 30 amp (I think it's the shortest fuse you can buy). I bought mine at PepBoys in am assortment of AGA fuses.
#18
Oskar,
Glad you found the thread helpful. The guys on Classic Oldsmobile are amazing. The in-line fuse was the problem with mine and I was ready to replace a hole buncha stuff.
Anyway, the fuse you need is an AGA 30 amp (I think it's the shortest fuse you can buy). I bought mine at PepBoys in am assortment of AGA fuses.
Glad you found the thread helpful. The guys on Classic Oldsmobile are amazing. The in-line fuse was the problem with mine and I was ready to replace a hole buncha stuff.
Anyway, the fuse you need is an AGA 30 amp (I think it's the shortest fuse you can buy). I bought mine at PepBoys in am assortment of AGA fuses.
I also went back and looked through the Chassis Service Manual again. I did find the fuse type specified in the Air Conditioning section (not the Electrical section where I had been looking), but it specified an AGC-30. Oh well...
#20
Can you get the AC clutch to engage by moving the lever to AC settings?
If not and the fuse is really good, then the main switch ont he control head may be bad.
If the AC clutch can engage, then suspect the fan switch next, esp if you can get a click from the high speed relay on high.
Does your car have a rear defroster? The fan circuit is different on these models.
#21
On my 72 Cutlass the three low speeds worked but HI did not. For me it turned out to be an in-line fuse located at the firewall near the distributor. I changed it and that took care of the problem.
As far as the all the speeds not working, perhaps it's a relay. Hard to think it could be the motor itself or the switch.
I'm sure you'll get better info about this on this site. very helpful bunch.
As far as the all the speeds not working, perhaps it's a relay. Hard to think it could be the motor itself or the switch.
I'm sure you'll get better info about this on this site. very helpful bunch.
#22
I have the exact same problem on my '73 wagon. Lower three fan speeds work, highest speed doesn't. Can you describe this fuse location at all? Was the wire mounted to the firewall? Any chance you could take a photo of it? I find it difficult sometimes to locate things under the hood with only general descriptions of what they look like. Thank you.
#23
Jaunty that inline fuse usually runs right along the top of the firewall and over the A/C suitcase/box. The wire is a heavy orange wire. Not sure where it originates from but you cant miss it unless its been removed, replaces with another color wire, taped into another harness or not, just wrapped in tape? Should have a yellowish/whiteish twist open fuse holder in it.
#25
Watching this as well, just about to start a new thread when I saw this. Must be a common problem, Hi speed fan on my '73 Delta no worky either..
jaunty75, very interested in your diagnosis and cure as it's put together the same as mine.
Oh, and why is this in the Newbie forum? nearly missed it.
jaunty75, very interested in your diagnosis and cure as it's put together the same as mine.
Oh, and why is this in the Newbie forum? nearly missed it.
#26
I'm curious to know if your car has the rear defogger, and, if so, if turning it on will cause the highest fan speed to work.
#27
jaunty yes my car has the rear window defogger, the wire one stuck to the inside of the window and the switch above the A/C & heater controls.
Just checked, the fan Hi speed doesn't work with the defogger on or off. I'm furiously looking through the manuals to see if there is a reference to what you said.
Just checked, the fan Hi speed doesn't work with the defogger on or off. I'm furiously looking through the manuals to see if there is a reference to what you said.
#28
This actually sounds like the problem you're having--no high blower at all--so maybe the 30-amp fuse is the problem in your case. The actual wording in the manual is "Check 30 amp in-line fuse at junction block." If the fuse is blown, the solution obviously is to replace the fuse but also to look for a short in the "black/orange stripe wire, in-line fuse to HI blower relay." If the fuse is not blown, there is an additional set of diagnosis steps shown in the chart.
#29
thanks for the location in the manual jaunty. Just checked the fuse and its good. looking at the Hi blower relay now. earlier post refers to whether the A/C clutch works, mine does.
Also need to check the operation of the rear defogger, never tried it so I'm not sure if it's working either.
I'll post a reply when I can sort it out
Just noticed the rear defogger dash switch has a red 'ON' indicator light behind it, nice.
Also need to check the operation of the rear defogger, never tried it so I'm not sure if it's working either.
I'll post a reply when I can sort it out
Just noticed the rear defogger dash switch has a red 'ON' indicator light behind it, nice.
Last edited by 73aussie455; October 28th, 2014 at 08:43 PM. Reason: typo
#31
There are only 2 inline fuses I can find under the hood, one is a 5A and the one in the center of the pic is a 30A. I traced it as best I could and it does go to the relays. I know I shouldn't but I'm assuming it's the one.
P1340_29-10-14_zpsca843217.jpg
P1340_29-10-14_zpsca843217.jpg
#32
Thanks! I found both fuses, too, a 5A and a 30A, and both are fine. I didn't really think my 30A was bad because then I would have thought the high blower wouldn't work at all. But as I say, mine DOES work if the defogger switch is also turned on. (I have the little red light, too.)
So I still don't know what the H is going on.
So I still don't know what the H is going on.
#34
Jaunty, I found this NOS part in a for sale ad on google. Part of the instructions reads, "When installing the high blower override switch...", the part is for Old's '73 full size models with manual A/C.
This would confirm your understanding of the Hi blower override function. Now it would seem I have a new problem with mine.
_574_zps9ae276ce.jpg
This would confirm your understanding of the Hi blower override function. Now it would seem I have a new problem with mine.
_574_zps9ae276ce.jpg
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post