nderise 70 w-30 restoration
November 23rd, 2014, 05:58 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: DELCAMBRE, LOUISIANA
Posts: 530
nderise 70 w-30 restoration
in the process of cleaning my under dash harness I realized I wash off all the lettering and #s of the fuse box. what to do. well this is what I did to fix it thought I would post some pics. of the outcome as this my help someone else.
remove the box from the harness I needed to anyway so I could clean terminals and seal them with die-lectric grease.
ordered a sheet of rub-on letters and #s
wiped the box down with grease and wax remover and started aligning and rubbing on the #s and a (for amps) then the I. d. lettering.
once I had all the lettering and #s on I cut a plastic straw in short pieces to cover the fuse terminals and applied 6 lite coats of high heat clear.
ray
remove the box from the harness I needed to anyway so I could clean terminals and seal them with die-lectric grease.
ordered a sheet of rub-on letters and #s
wiped the box down with grease and wax remover and started aligning and rubbing on the #s and a (for amps) then the I. d. lettering.
once I had all the lettering and #s on I cut a plastic straw in short pieces to cover the fuse terminals and applied 6 lite coats of high heat clear.
ray
Last edited by NDERISE; November 23rd, 2014 at 06:09 PM.
fuse box restoration
November 24th, 2014, 05:13 AM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: South River, New Jersey
Posts: 3,515
wow....
You made it sound easy, but that must have been some tedious work, those letters don't come individually and to get them all ligned up perfectly like you did took some patience, very nice.
November 24th, 2014, 10:20 AM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: DELCAMBRE, LOUISIANA
Posts: 530
thanks guys
thanks to all for the good comments, yes costpen u never know i'am getting close to retirement as I will be turning 64 in jan. and have allways loved to bring old things back to life, as I have restored cars, coke machines, candy machines and juke boxes, this may be a good pastime for a retiree, but I have many restoration projects ahead of me
thanks again to all nice comments ray
thanks again to all nice comments ray
Last edited by NDERISE; November 24th, 2014 at 10:25 AM. Reason: addition
November 24th, 2014, 10:27 AM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: DELCAMBRE, LOUISIANA
Posts: 530
November 25th, 2014, 03:33 PM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: DELCAMBRE, LOUISIANA
Posts: 530
good camera
I think I will start posting a few pics. of my progress on my car as now I have a phone that I can take decent pictures of my restoration on my car.
this are my inner fender which were in poor condition. I had to repair a few holes on the drivers side one and some spots that had a small crack, the small cracks I repaired by drilling 1/32 hold throw the cracked area and pushing stainless steel rods into the holds which prevents the crack from moving. also had to repair a couple of speed nut holes where they bolt up under the fender wheel opening. I used 3-m plastic bumper repair epoxy for the repairs. sanded the epoxy as u would bondo and primed with sems plastic primer. made my staples for the splash shields out of some stainless rod stock and located the staples in the original holes. worked on these inner fender for 4 weekends. I think they came out satisfactory considering the condition they were in. I considered using replacements but they are just not as good as the originals
ray
this are my inner fender which were in poor condition. I had to repair a few holes on the drivers side one and some spots that had a small crack, the small cracks I repaired by drilling 1/32 hold throw the cracked area and pushing stainless steel rods into the holds which prevents the crack from moving. also had to repair a couple of speed nut holes where they bolt up under the fender wheel opening. I used 3-m plastic bumper repair epoxy for the repairs. sanded the epoxy as u would bondo and primed with sems plastic primer. made my staples for the splash shields out of some stainless rod stock and located the staples in the original holes. worked on these inner fender for 4 weekends. I think they came out satisfactory considering the condition they were in. I considered using replacements but they are just not as good as the originals
ray
Last edited by NDERISE; December 6th, 2014 at 05:24 AM.
November 25th, 2014, 03:42 PM
#15
I think I will start posting a few pics. of my progress on my car as now I have a phone that I can take decent pictures of my restoration on my car.
this are my inner fender which were in poor condition. I had to repair a few holes on the drivers side one and some spots that had a small crack, the small cracks I repaired by drilling 1/32 hold throw the cracked area and pushing stainless steel rods into the which prevents the crack from moving. also had to repair a couple of speed nut holes where they bolt up under the fender wheel opening. I used 3-m plastic bumper repair epoxy for the repairs. sanded the epoxy as u would bondo and primed with sems plastic primer. made my staples for the slash shields out of some stainless rod stock and located the staples in the original holes. worked on these inner fender for 4 weekends. I think they came out satisfactory considering the condition they were in. I considered using replacements but they are just not as good as the originals
ray
this are my inner fender which were in poor condition. I had to repair a few holes on the drivers side one and some spots that had a small crack, the small cracks I repaired by drilling 1/32 hold throw the cracked area and pushing stainless steel rods into the which prevents the crack from moving. also had to repair a couple of speed nut holes where they bolt up under the fender wheel opening. I used 3-m plastic bumper repair epoxy for the repairs. sanded the epoxy as u would bondo and primed with sems plastic primer. made my staples for the slash shields out of some stainless rod stock and located the staples in the original holes. worked on these inner fender for 4 weekends. I think they came out satisfactory considering the condition they were in. I considered using replacements but they are just not as good as the originals
ray
November 26th, 2014, 02:37 PM
#19
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Brazil Indiana
Posts: 11,498
November 26th, 2014, 03:28 PM
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: DELCAMBRE, LOUISIANA
Posts: 530
November 27th, 2014, 11:30 AM
#21
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: DELCAMBRE, LOUISIANA
Posts: 530
steering knuckle
just thought I would post some pictures of the inspection marks I found on my steering knuckles. does anyone have any info. on all the diff. colors, 4 diff. ones from what I can see orange, yellow, green and blue
ray
ray
Last edited by NDERISE; November 28th, 2014 at 06:08 AM.
December 2nd, 2014, 12:10 PM
#24
Lance
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: YUKON, OK.
Posts: 738
FWIW, I try to keep in mind with some of these 44 year old color markings that there may be at the least some slight fading of colors over time.
December 2nd, 2014, 12:28 PM
#25
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: DELCAMBRE, LOUISIANA
Posts: 530
that is a great idea I never thought of using model paint
thanks ray
December 3rd, 2014, 05:15 PM
#26
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: DELCAMBRE, LOUISIANA
Posts: 530
diff. resto.
this is a few pics. of my diff. restoration. after stripping it down to the housing I washed it down with superclean. dried it out and blasted it. primed in with etch primer and flashed primed it with epoxy primer. the driver side had some bad pitting after two rounds on priming and sanding I tried putting 3 heavy coats of primer and while It was not quite dry I used a 4" razor blade to cut the primer on the diff. tubes. I also cut the primer on the flat areas of the shock and control arm brackets. doing this save me a lot of time priming and sanding. finally got all the pit out and chassie blacked it came out pit free and slick.
thanks for viewing ray
thanks for viewing ray
Last edited by NDERISE; December 3rd, 2014 at 05:41 PM.
December 3rd, 2014, 06:30 PM
#28
this is a few pics. of my diff. restoration. after stripping it down to the housing I washed it down with superclean. dried it out and blasted it. primed in with etch primer and flashed primed it with epoxy primer. the driver side had some bad pitting after two rounds on priming and sanding I tried putting 3 heavy coats of primer and while It was not quite dry I used a 4" razor blade to cut the primer on the diff. tubes. I also cut the primer on the flat areas of the shock and control arm brackets. doing this save me a lot of time priming and sanding. finally got all the pit out and chassie blacked it came out pit free and slick.
thanks for viewing ray
thanks for viewing ray
Last edited by costpenn; December 3rd, 2014 at 06:33 PM.
December 3rd, 2014, 06:37 PM
#29
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: DELCAMBRE, LOUISIANA
Posts: 530
it is a very heavy old railroad crossing street sign I pick up in miss. when I was at cruising the coast. one section was broken and I ended up selling it to another guy. but I do have about 300 other signs in my collection. these are a few pics. of things in my office.
thanks ray
Last edited by NDERISE; December 3rd, 2014 at 06:49 PM.
December 3rd, 2014, 07:16 PM
#30
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,455
this is a few pics. of my diff. restoration. after stripping it down to the housing I washed it down with superclean. dried it out and blasted it. primed in with etch primer and flashed primed it with epoxy primer. the driver side had some bad pitting after two rounds on priming and sanding I tried putting 3 heavy coats of primer and while It was not quite dry I used a 4" razor blade to cut the primer on the diff. tubes. I also cut the primer on the flat areas of the shock and control arm brackets. doing this save me a lot of time priming and sanding. finally got all the pit out and chassie blacked it came out pit free and slick.
thanks for viewing ray
thanks for viewing ray
December 4th, 2014, 05:21 AM
#31
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: DELCAMBRE, LOUISIANA
Posts: 530
AFTER SPARYING 3 HEAVY COATS OF PRIMER IT TAKES LONGER TO DRY AFTER A FEW MINETS (ITS HARD TO KNOW EXSACCULY WHEN BECAUSE OF CONDITIONS) I USED A 4" AND A REGULAR 1" RAZOR BLADE TO CUT ALONG THE SUFACE OF THE TUBE, CUTTING WITH THE CURVE OF THE TUBE (NOT THE LEIGHT) LIKE IF U WOULD BE SCRAPING PAINT OFF A PEACE OF GLASS AS U CUT THROUGH THE PRIMER THE REMAINING PRIMER STAYS IN THE VOIDS (PITS). AFTER CUTTING THE PRIMER U NEED TO LET IT DRY ABOUT 2 DAYS BEFORE SANDING IT.
REMAINING PRIMER STAYS IN THE VOIDS (pits). A REPRIMING AND FINISH SANDING WILL BE NEEDED
HOPE THIS HELPS U UNDERSTAND
RAY
Last edited by NDERISE; December 4th, 2014 at 06:40 AM.
December 4th, 2014, 09:53 AM
#32
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
Posts: 1,455
AFTER SPARYING 3 HEAVY COATS OF PRIMER IT TAKES LONGER TO DRY AFTER A FEW MINETS (ITS HARD TO KNOW EXSACCULY WHEN BECAUSE OF CONDITIONS) I USED A 4" AND A REGULAR 1" RAZOR BLADE TO CUT ALONG THE SUFACE OF THE TUBE, CUTTING WITH THE CURVE OF THE TUBE (NOT THE LEIGHT) LIKE IF U WOULD BE SCRAPING PAINT OFF A PEACE OF GLASS AS U CUT THROUGH THE PRIMER THE REMAINING PRIMER STAYS IN THE VOIDS (PITS). AFTER CUTTING THE PRIMER U NEED TO LET IT DRY ABOUT 2 DAYS BEFORE SANDING IT.
REMAINING PRIMER STAYS IN THE VOIDS (pits). A REPRIMING AND FINISH SANDING WILL BE NEEDED
HOPE THIS HELPS U UNDERSTAND
RAY
REMAINING PRIMER STAYS IN THE VOIDS (pits). A REPRIMING AND FINISH SANDING WILL BE NEEDED
HOPE THIS HELPS U UNDERSTAND
RAY
December 5th, 2014, 04:07 PM
#33
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: DELCAMBRE, LOUISIANA
Posts: 530
console
spent most of the day cleaning my replacement console which is black as it will need to be repainted as I will repaint most of my interior parts. removed the lock assembly the plastic rivets that retain the door opening molding and compartment cover, removed the larger lower chrome molding. polished the moldings, cleaned all plastic parts with super clean.
then started on reflocking the console compartment. masked off the necessary areas. sprayed two coats of black enamel paint for the flocking to stick to. very happy with the results, all came out looking as good as a factory application.
don't laugh at my flocking application pump its home made and work great.
THANKS RAY
then started on reflocking the console compartment. masked off the necessary areas. sprayed two coats of black enamel paint for the flocking to stick to. very happy with the results, all came out looking as good as a factory application.
don't laugh at my flocking application pump its home made and work great.
THANKS RAY
Last edited by NDERISE; December 5th, 2014 at 04:26 PM. Reason: ADD
December 5th, 2014, 08:11 PM
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: DELCAMBRE, LOUISIANA
Posts: 530
colume tag
I had a tag on my steering column but it was in poor condition and could not read it, I would like to find one in good condition to see if I could reproduce one for my column. maybe your was readable. if so maybe u could p m me a good pic of it. thanks for the pics. of the inspection marks u sent. I would like to put all the insp. mark possible. I still have my fuel tank that is in good shape and will take a close look at it for marks
thanks ray
thanks ray
Last edited by NDERISE; December 5th, 2014 at 08:14 PM.
December 5th, 2014, 08:32 PM
#37
I had a tag on my steering column but it was in poor condition and could not read it, I would like to find one in good condition to see if I could reproduce one for my column. maybe your was readable. if so maybe u could p m me a good pic of it. thanks for the pics. of the inspection marks u sent. I would like to put all the insp. mark possible. I still have my fuel tank that is in good shape and will take a close look at it for marks
thanks ray
thanks ray
December 7th, 2014, 05:54 PM
#39
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: DELCAMBRE, LOUISIANA
Posts: 530
glove box
found inspection marks on my inner glove door liner today as I was sanding out some scratches and buffing it out. picture one below looks like just a white line and picture two looks like a 3 made with a yellow pencil. costpenn thanks for the picture of the colume tag and if the tag is handy would it be possible to mic it so I will have the measurements to try to reproduce me one.
thanks ray
thanks ray
Last edited by NDERISE; December 7th, 2014 at 05:57 PM.
December 10th, 2014, 07:15 PM
#40
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: DELCAMBRE, LOUISIANA
Posts: 530
rear seat bottom
here are a few pics of my rear seat bottom I took pics as I assembled them blasted the frame etch primed them and painted them in satin nickel as to give them a natural metal finish as the frames were not painted from the factory, replaced all burlap, cotton and foam, sewed thin metal wire supports to new burlap, installed legendary cover.
