JackJack56Olds

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citcapp

Nice workmanship looks great

therobski

That is really nice. A lot of attention to detail

NAS Backyard

Looks really nice, I think I'll try the soda blast idea. Did you just go back with standard rings and bearings? I've been hoarding parts to rebuild my original engine. There's some great deals out there if you look around. Who did you get your gaskets from?

JackJack56Olds

Yeah, I was fortunate enough with the low mileage on the engine that I didn't need anything oversize. The original pistons are being used with sealed power rings. I'm pretty confident it was King bearings for the crank but the rod bearings were from Egge and I don't know the manufacturer (no name b/c I couldn't locate a USA made version). The gaskets are Felpro which came from Rock Auto. They were the cheapest there. I found that there were actually better deals on ebay of all places for some of the parts. I bought some sprockets, the chain, rings, valves (NOS) from ebay b/c they were cheaper than other businesses. Ironically enough some of the parts I listed were actually being sold by Summit Racing on Ebay and it was cheaper than straight from Summit when you factored in the handling charges. The pushrods were cheapest at Egge that I found. The cam and lifters came from Camcraft who were reasonable, super nice and had the parts in stock.


The soda blast works really well. I was skeptical at first but it definitely cleans up the parts with no damage to the material. For the gun all I did was the cheap harbor freight gun, some clear hose and some tape to hold it together. If you use it in a concentrated area I found it does yellow the grass so be careful there.

JackJack56Olds

I had a little trouble with the harmonic balancer I received in an exchange unfortunately. When I put the balancer up to the crank it wouldn't slide on at all. It just wobbled around the outside of the crank like it was too small. The keyway didn't look right to me. It looked like it wasn't true not to mention the sleeve on the outside of it. My original didn't have that and came off really easy. So I took measurements of everything. What I found was the balancer must have been dropped or something because the keyway was in fact not true. I called the place and got my original balancer back and it slid on perfectly no issues. Problem averted.

64Rocket

when you sand blast parts make sure you super clean all the sand away. the engine will not like the sand running around in there. I'm not sure about the soda, but i would also make sure you triple clean everything.

Gene

JackJack56Olds

I hear ya. I was selective on what I blasted and how.

JackJack56Olds

Here you can kind of see how untrue the square slot was and why the balancer wouldn't slide over the key. The outer diameter was sleeved.
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This is the good balancer that slid right on to the crank.


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JackJack56Olds

I'm starting to work on everything around the motor now. Its a daunting task but will be well worth it in the end if it goes ok. I want to basically redo the engine bay to look new again. I first started with pulling the heater box off the firewall knowing I had to replace the heater core. I figured it would be easier to restore the box this way and paint the firewall.


A few of the pictures can be found here for that part of it. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...e-removal.html




Over the weekend I started working on other things in the bay. The worst part is not knowing where to start. Maybe the worst part is actually starting on one thing and looking at another thing and starting on that.


I found the first ever cabin air filter, lol! I took the wing nuts off the inspection cover and pulled out the filter screen. Luckily it isn't rotted and there wasn't too much debris inside.


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Tedd Thompson

Keep in mind that if you changed the lift on the cam much you will probably need to change the push rods length(they aren't adjustable) and that's how you keep the geometry straight. ...Tedd

PS. flat cams were a problem with the 56 year of 324's, many failed with low mileage just like yours.

JackJack56Olds

Any idea where I could find the stock lift on a 324?

Tedd Thompson

If you bought a new cam try try them or call Tony at Ross Racing Engines 330-544-4466 he is the go to guy regarding early Old's engines he will know for sure.


You will probably need a (single) adjustable push rod to set up the geometry then buy a set of the correct push rods made up to the length you find on the adjustable rod.....Tedd

JackJack56Olds

I called Camcraft back where I got the cam and he gave me some insight. He said the extra lift is more than likely under .030" when lifters typically have .100" travel so the difference would be compensated for there. he said he runs the same cam in his engine and its mild difference than stock. In all his years experience he said he hasn't heard of anyone complain about valve noise due higher lift. If I really wanted to he said I could measure the base circles on the old vs new cam and then divide that distance in half to get close to the extra lift. I also asked an experienced machinist relative of mine separately and he said more or less the same thing that there isn't going to be that much difference in pushrod lengths to make a problem.

Eddie Hansen

Everything is looking great, the cabin air filter is a trip so cool

JackJack56Olds

I split the box and found some debris; imagine that.


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Here is an inside look at that cover I took off. there is a rubberized foam coating on the inside, I assume for insulation.
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fuxl

Coming along really nice!
Thanks for taking the time to document the whole ordeal.

I've been through almost the same on my '56 and just put the engine back in last weekend.

Keep up the good work.

JackJack56Olds

I finally got the box off. The gaskets to the firewall held a bunch of water so there is some rust pitting on the firewall. The blend door to the cowl was seized so had to loosen that up. I've got it all apart. There is a molded drain hose at the bottom that is very unique. Still trying to figure that one out for a replacement. I'm moving slow but important to at least keep moving.


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JackJack56Olds

I started splitting the box apart. It was tricky like a jigsaw puzzle. The capillary tube clamps were on the inside but you couldn't get the cover off at once. I had to split the box then take the clamps off and pull the valve out the front. From there the cover came off and I could take the rest apart.


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You can see all the rust. Apparently water liked to sit in there.


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JackJack56Olds

There are two drains on this AC box. One is circular that looks just like the heater box. I can get a rubber hose drain for that. Its like an irrigation flat drain hose material almost. This other drain hole is oval with a molded rubber hose much like a thin walled radiator hose. It mounts flush with the case and his held tight with an oval bracket that screws to the case. This one isn't available at the big name places like Fusick, USA, Kanter, etc.


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I think I'm going to find a cylinder the same size as the other drain holes and weld it to the bracket that held the hose to the box. that way I can RTV the bracket with the new drain welded to the case and then get the same drain hose from Fusick as I have to get 2 already for the other holes. Then fix the reason the water sits in there.

JackJack56Olds

I sent the condenser and evaporator to the radiator shop for testing and cleaning. everything came back AOK. They made the condenser look new and I laid down some coats of POR on the rest of it.


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The filter screen and my vacuum tank that I painted with POR15 and a POR topcoat
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JackJack56Olds

I figured out my drain on the AC box. I basically duplicated the original flange that held the rubber hose in place then made a cylinder to weld to the flange. So far everything clears but I noticed when I put the shifter in park it does barely hit the hose. Shouldn't be much of an issue since the car won't be moving and vibrating to cause any holes. I got it to drain to the side of the column which was the goal so should be good. Not the prettiest weld job but functional.


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JackJack56Olds

I've been cleaning up the bay getting ready for paint. I cleaned everything with POR's Marine Clean then sprayed their Metal Ready product to put down a zinc coating. The paint I decided to use is Omni's black epoxy primer. Its fairly durable and has a similar color to what I want. Not sure if I'm going to put a krylon satin over that or not. maybe others have an opinion of leaving it alone or putting a spray can top coat over it. I think I left the metal ready on too long because it started to look rusty. I've since wire brushed it and cleaned that up a bit.


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JackJack56Olds

I just pulled the front bumper off to get the splash shield out and to make it easier to paint and install the engine/trans. Not sure if I will do something with the frame that sits under that or not. Maybe just POR 15 it.




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JackJack56Olds

Finally was able to set up my makeshift paint booth Booth_zpsoqlah2qo.jpg
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JackJack56Olds

I've been slowly at it with putting things back together, collecting miscellaneous parts (clamps, clips, bolts etc), and having parts powdercoated. I did what someone on here suggested and traced the original chalk marks to duplicate them again on the firewall. Silly I know.


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JackJack56Olds

My goal this past weekend was to replace the shocks and get the control arms hooked back up to the king pins so I could get the car on dollys again. It was a little longer than I expected due to the first time doing it and a shock mount bolt sheering off in the control arm. What a pain. 2 hours later I got the bolt out. I'm guessing these were the original shocks since the car has only 33k miles or so. Gotta love the name.


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Not hooked back up to pins.
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Hooked back up.
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JackJack56Olds

I installed the AC box finally and have more of the little stuff added here and there. I'm getting excited now. After getting the voltage regulator in and all the connections wired up in that area I should be ready to the motor back in.


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JackJack56Olds

Well I'm finally there. The motor/trans is back in the car. Slowly but surely.


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JackJack56Olds

Latest:
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bigin1978

WOW! looking very Nice. I wish mine was an AC car! Very rare. Keep up the good work!

ignachuck

Fabulous job. I'm staring at your pics of the A/C system. My '56 is an A/C car but I haven't even touched it yet. Had to get it running and a new interior and lots of electrical problems. It's on my 2016 list, so I'll be leaning on you for advise.

Frank

ignachuck

Jeff, quick question regarding the heater fan motor.

Take a look and tell me if your heater fan motor has two wires or one.

I know there are two wires coming out of the firewall in the same hole. In your pictures, it looks like both of those wires connect to the heater fan motor, but on my 56, there is only one connection to the motor and one "extra" wire, dangling.

My fan motor works on low only and I'm wondering if that "extra" wire has anything to do with it.

Frank

oldcutlass

Very nice work. Great pictures.

JackJack56Olds

Thanks everyone for the compliments. Frank take a look. You might be talking about the ground wire.
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JackJack56Olds

Or you might be talking about the wire that runs to the compressor. Thats the long black one with the big connector on the end I have stretched by the heater hose.


Speaking of heater hose does anyone have a pic of how your heater hose on an AC car routes from the firewall along the fenderwell to the timing cover connector? Some hoses run through a clamp over the wiper vacuum hoses and clamp then over the starter under the front of the compressor. I have a clamp on the back of my compressor bracket(seen below where the ground wire attacheshiding the letter 'T') and ive seen one pic where the hose goes thru it but I dont know how it ends up at the connection at the timing cover.


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ignachuck

Jeff, here are some primitive pics of how the heater hose in my '56 looks. A lot of stuff on my car was moused with so take this for what it's worth.

Frank

ignachuck

Jeff, I'm missing this ac compressor electrical connection to my 56 . Do you (or anyone) know the part number?

Thanks, Frank

JackJack56Olds

I found this for you. I think you have the connector but maybe just missing the wire to the connector.http://www.google.com/search?q=1955+...Y0w-jryaVsM%3A
Ive got some pics of my compressor and wire with connector I need to upload still. And this http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-60-Olds...dWhzZz&vxp=mtr

JackJack56Olds

I found a pic of the heater hose going thru the clamp in the back of the compressor bracket instead of the clamp on the fenderwell to the front side of compressor. I just cant see where it goes. Any ideas?1956 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight 1 12.jpeg