Dent's 72.
#1
Dent's 72.
This is my 72 Cutlass S. I got it from a friend who had it in his barn for about 6 months . It has 58k , one repaint. This is the original colour, Sunfire yellow code 56. The build sheet I got from GM show's the hood and 442 option along with super stock 1 wheels. 350 4bbl dual exhaust 273 10 bolt posi and AM radio. The only thing missing is the AM radio. These are pics of the first time I saw it.
#4
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
I love the car. When you say GM build sheet, are you referring to the GM historical sheet that George Zapora does for GM Canada? There should be a broadcast card lurking somewhere under a seat, door panel or pacel shelf. Do you still have the Original Bill of Sale and docs, inc Protecto plate for the car?
The drivers seat looks to have been reupholstered by a PO. Notice the stitching and cushions are relatively 'flat' as compared to the passenger seat back?
What stage are you at now with the rebuild?
I'm curious about something - does it have the U21 rallye pack with the seatbelt reminder on the dashpad?
Definitely get some close up pics of those stripes before you redo any paint on it.
The drivers seat looks to have been reupholstered by a PO. Notice the stitching and cushions are relatively 'flat' as compared to the passenger seat back?
What stage are you at now with the rebuild?
I'm curious about something - does it have the U21 rallye pack with the seatbelt reminder on the dashpad?
Definitely get some close up pics of those stripes before you redo any paint on it.
#6
I have not found a broadcast sheet yet,all I have is the Zapora papers. I am trying to get in touch with the first owner. So far I replaced 2 sections of the trunk floor, the cabin floor is good.
#8
Nice car and an interesting color too. While you're restoring it, if you're interested in total correctness, make sure you get the paint on the headlight bezels done right Just a pet peeve of mine i guess.
#9
Yes I'd like the bezels to be correct. Thanks for the pic. While your at it, are the stripe's on your car correct? If so can you put up a pic or two? I'm not aiming for a concourse restoration but it will look right. Thanks.
#10
I love the car. When you say GM build sheet, are you referring to the GM historical sheet that George Zapora does for GM Canada? There should be a broadcast card lurking somewhere under a seat, door panel or pacel shelf. Do you still have the Original Bill of Sale and docs, inc Protecto plate for the car?
The drivers seat looks to have been reupholstered by a PO. Notice the stitching and cushions are relatively 'flat' as compared to the passenger seat back?
What stage are you at now with the rebuild?
I'm curious about something - does it have the U21 rallye pack with the seatbelt reminder on the dashpad?
Definitely get some close up pics of those stripes before you redo any paint on it.
The drivers seat looks to have been reupholstered by a PO. Notice the stitching and cushions are relatively 'flat' as compared to the passenger seat back?
What stage are you at now with the rebuild?
I'm curious about something - does it have the U21 rallye pack with the seatbelt reminder on the dashpad?
Definitely get some close up pics of those stripes before you redo any paint on it.
#11
I have a 1970 parts car , I bought it before I got wind of the 72. I was thinking of rebuilding it but it was to much work. It come with a good running 1977 403 in it and a nice 373 posi 12 bolt rearend. It also came with some nice rechrome bumpers, I sold them. I'll try to find some pics.
#13
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ave-alone.html
The side stripes are 1/16", 1/4" and 1/16". I don't have it in front of me but the '72 assembly manual has more details on stripe thicknesses, distances between stripes and placement. I'm sure someone else on this site has a pic available of that assembly manual page. Allan_R, you out there?
Last edited by 72 w29 all green; December 19th, 2011 at 08:56 AM.
#16
There are some excellent pics on this recent thread.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ave-alone.html
The side stripes are 1/16", 1/8" and 1/16". I don't have it in front of me but the '72 assembly manual has more details on stripe thicknesses, distances between stripes and placement. I'm sure someone else on this site has a pic available of that assembly manual page. Allan_R, you out there?
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ave-alone.html
The side stripes are 1/16", 1/8" and 1/16". I don't have it in front of me but the '72 assembly manual has more details on stripe thicknesses, distances between stripes and placement. I'm sure someone else on this site has a pic available of that assembly manual page. Allan_R, you out there?
#19
#24
Terry
#27
What are you doing with the parts car? I could use a rust free roof as my 442 had a vinyl top and it rusted front and back including the inside roof brace. Is it rust free? Parting out?
Thanks
Thanks
#28
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
#30
Unfortunately the roof on old greeny was also a vinyl , its very rusty. I did see some were some one is making roof skins for cutlass.
#31
So far just the outer skin on the right side , next week I'll see how the left side looks. I do my own body work and paint . Hey Allan , did you get the PMs I sent?
#32
#33
Thanks. I had the panel on and off about 20 or 30 times. I only use about 2 thirds of the panel.On the right side I used self tapping screws but they wear out the holes to soon. Now I use Cleco fasteners and some smaller screws I got from one of the many good people on this forum ( thanks oldzzy ) when Im happy with the fit , I put all the fasteners in and start cutting threw both old and new panels with an air powered hack saw. Cut about 6 inches and tack weld a nice but weld , and then just keep going . Don't be tempted to run a beed , just keep tack welding from one spot to another spot . Jump back and forth from one end to the other and cool each spot weld with compressed air til the hole thing is welded with minimum warping. Grind the weld to almost flush and check for any pin holes , I like to use a light from behind to do that.
#36
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Henry, that brings back memories of 86 for me. I had to do the same thing, but more damage to repair. The welds were good, but ended up with about 1/8" of filler to make it perfect. The weld and cuts are visible inside the trunk under the splatter paint. You going to smooth that down inside or just leave it for strength? IMO it doesn't matter unless you're going concours, it's really not that easy to see because of the height of the weld.