1975 Hurst/Olds W25 -Fe2O3 body and suspension!
February 12th, 2017, 05:54 AM
#1
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1975 Hurst/Olds W25 -Fe2O3 body and suspension!
My son and I picked up a pretty original and very rusty 1975 Hurst Olds W25 last year. Although I currently have no documentation on the car, I believe that it is a real Hurst Olds with original engine and transmission (and probably original open 2.56 diff.). I have most of the interior for the car with surprisingly good interior sail panels (minimal edge crumbling on the small pieces). This is a very low-optioned model, but it does have a dual gate and t-tops and tilt steering...that is cool enough for us!
Some (maybe most) on this board would part this car and be done with it. My son and I are going to give it a shot for the following reasons:
1) Skills development (my reason)
2) Chicks will really dig this car (his reason)
I would not put a car on the road that is unsafe. This car is ugly rusty (Fe2O3). If this project cannot be made safe, we will bail. We also cannot throw a ton of money at this thing. The deal on this car included replacement fenders, doors, decklid, and full quarters with outer wheelhouses. We need a lot of parts (which I will be requesting at a later time). This is a new experience for me as I have mostly worked on 70-72 Cutlass/442 cars.
We have been working on this for about a month now, so I will get you caught up. I hope you enjoy it.
Mick
Some (maybe most) on this board would part this car and be done with it. My son and I are going to give it a shot for the following reasons:
1) Skills development (my reason)
2) Chicks will really dig this car (his reason)
I would not put a car on the road that is unsafe. This car is ugly rusty (Fe2O3). If this project cannot be made safe, we will bail. We also cannot throw a ton of money at this thing. The deal on this car included replacement fenders, doors, decklid, and full quarters with outer wheelhouses. We need a lot of parts (which I will be requesting at a later time). This is a new experience for me as I have mostly worked on 70-72 Cutlass/442 cars.
We have been working on this for about a month now, so I will get you caught up. I hope you enjoy it.
Mick
February 12th, 2017, 09:32 AM
#6
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The B-pillar was totally rusted through at the lower jamb portion, by the rocker on the drivers side. The frame is very scaly, I still have to blast it to get a better look. And the interior floors are gone....really gone.
February 12th, 2017, 11:18 PM
#9
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Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
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Doing a heck of a nice job so far. Awesome fabrication work in the vice I see. How are the welds going ? Are you seeing much war-page? Will look nice when its completed. I'm following along.
Eric
Eric
February 13th, 2017, 03:36 AM
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Regarding warpage, I recently purchased a new Miller welder that is very adjustable and my son learned the basics very quickly. We have been using 18 ga. steel for many of the patches and the OEM metal that we scavenged is pretty thick. We are trying to remember to keep heat down by moving around the work and by going slow. I did two small patches up where the quarter panel meets the roof line and the heat caused a large area of the panel to change shape. It is good practice for when we graft in the replacement quarter panel, where I think that we will have the biggest chance for warpage. Thanks for your interest.
When I bought the car, I thought that the trunk looked like the best part. Looks like it will need some new metal and probably some brace work, as well. I knew the inner wheel houses were toast.
February 14th, 2017, 07:09 AM
#12
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Location: The Cuse, NY
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Awesome!! That's one hell of a project you are tackling there. Looks like that old girl led a hard life! It's great to see you trying to bring her back! Keep those pics coming!
I would definitely agree that she is legit. I haven't seen anyone trying to clone the 75 W-25 yet! Especially with that kind of...patina!
One big advantage is the interior panels in decent shape, as those are not easy to find! They can be hard enough to acquire for the run of the mill Cutlass, S or Supreme! LOL
How does it run?
I would definitely agree that she is legit. I haven't seen anyone trying to clone the 75 W-25 yet! Especially with that kind of...patina!
One big advantage is the interior panels in decent shape, as those are not easy to find! They can be hard enough to acquire for the run of the mill Cutlass, S or Supreme! LOL
How does it run?
February 15th, 2017, 05:12 PM
#13
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It runs pretty well (after shooting acorns and rust out the exhaust). It didn't want to idle on its own. I suspect a dirty carb. and/or vacuum leaks. No knocks, though. We couldn't drive it due to no brakes and other issues, so we could not check out the transmission shifting.
The previous owner told me that he had the driveshaft rebuilt and balanced. It looks clean, but it did not seat in the differential very well. I also noticed that it doesn't extend as far into the transmission as it needs to be. We will worry about that down the road.
After pulling and cleaning the differential, I found the identification stamping, as well as a neat (and very durable) marking on the bottom of the pumpkin ("28"). I also noticed a frame stamp, by the driver's rear wheel arch.
The previous owner told me that he had the driveshaft rebuilt and balanced. It looks clean, but it did not seat in the differential very well. I also noticed that it doesn't extend as far into the transmission as it needs to be. We will worry about that down the road.
After pulling and cleaning the differential, I found the identification stamping, as well as a neat (and very durable) marking on the bottom of the pumpkin ("28"). I also noticed a frame stamp, by the driver's rear wheel arch.
February 15th, 2017, 05:20 PM
#14
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As I mentioned earlier, the car came with replacement quarters, outer wheel houses and drop-offs that were cut off of a relatively clean car. The drivers quarter on the donor car must have been replaced at some time. There were a hundred spot welds connecting the parts together. it took some time to separate the pieces without destroying them.
February 15th, 2017, 05:49 PM
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The next step is to rent a large compressor and sandblaster, so I can blast the heck out of the frame and underside before I go any further. I have just a 30 gallon compressor and small blaster in this shop. I did a little with it (differential), but it wasn't nearly enough for what I need to do.
I had wanted to get the back end of the car (about the back half) and floor board area squared away before tearing the front end apart and pulling the engine and trans. My reasoning here was that storage and shop room was running out, and I also wanted the structure in the back fortified before flexing the car a lot. I opened up the passenger quarter and wheel house area for better access with the sandblaster. I also put the (mostly)clean differential back into the car for mobility.
The frame looks thin in a couple of areas. This caused me to go back and forth in my mind several times yesterday about parting this thing out. I don't want that hassle and I hate to quit on this thing. Pulling the body and putting a new frame underneath this car is the logical answer, but not within the scope of this project. After discussing it with the keeper of the checkbook, we will forge ahead with the original plan: make it look nice and make it safe, then cruise it for the summer.
I will probably be sandblasting in a couple of days. We will see how it looks then.
Mick
I had wanted to get the back end of the car (about the back half) and floor board area squared away before tearing the front end apart and pulling the engine and trans. My reasoning here was that storage and shop room was running out, and I also wanted the structure in the back fortified before flexing the car a lot. I opened up the passenger quarter and wheel house area for better access with the sandblaster. I also put the (mostly)clean differential back into the car for mobility.
The frame looks thin in a couple of areas. This caused me to go back and forth in my mind several times yesterday about parting this thing out. I don't want that hassle and I hate to quit on this thing. Pulling the body and putting a new frame underneath this car is the logical answer, but not within the scope of this project. After discussing it with the keeper of the checkbook, we will forge ahead with the original plan: make it look nice and make it safe, then cruise it for the summer.
I will probably be sandblasting in a couple of days. We will see how it looks then.
Mick
February 15th, 2017, 06:44 PM
#18
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Thank you, I was able to open that link on the used frame out of Alabama. I am actually in your neck of the woods. It would be great to develop some parts sources in our area. I have been looking around (mostly Craigslist). Good, used parts availability seems to jump from 64-72 a-body to 78 and up g-body. I also found a lead on a 77 frame in AZ. I've had cars shipped, never a frame.
This book will help.
This book will help.
Last edited by Oldsmomick; February 15th, 2017 at 06:58 PM. Reason: Add photo and comment
February 15th, 2017, 08:49 PM
#19
Thank you, I was able to open that link on the used frame out of Alabama. I am actually in your neck of the woods. It would be great to develop some parts sources in our area. I have been looking around (mostly Craigslist). Good, used parts availability seems to jump from 64-72 a-body to 78 and up g-body. I also found a lead on a 77 frame in AZ. I've had cars shipped, never a frame.
This book will help.
This book will help.
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