'37 olds coupe build
#41
check this website:
http://www.antiqueolds.org/advisors.html
the advisor for 1937's may have an answer...
http://www.antiqueolds.org/advisors.html
the advisor for 1937's may have an answer...
#44
got a little ahead of myself; didn't realize I skipped a few things.
I ended up buying a kit from speedwaymotors for the front suspension...I think it is very nice. speedway included the axle, springs, spindles, brakes, king pins, steering arms, tie rod, shackles, spring perches...just about everything.
I ordered it with a 4" drop; it was $799 shipped to my door. I cut & welded some 2x3 box tubing, and installed the axle kit. I was very happy to be able to finally roll it back & forth in the garage.
then I fabbed a mount for the Saginaw power steering box & tacked it in place. attached are a few pictures.
before winter, I'd like to have everything fabbed & tacked so I can pull the body off the frame, finish weld everything, and have the frame powdercoated. then, hopefully, over the winter I can bolt it all back together, wire/plumb it, and have it ready for spring.
I ended up buying a kit from speedwaymotors for the front suspension...I think it is very nice. speedway included the axle, springs, spindles, brakes, king pins, steering arms, tie rod, shackles, spring perches...just about everything.
I ordered it with a 4" drop; it was $799 shipped to my door. I cut & welded some 2x3 box tubing, and installed the axle kit. I was very happy to be able to finally roll it back & forth in the garage.
then I fabbed a mount for the Saginaw power steering box & tacked it in place. attached are a few pictures.
before winter, I'd like to have everything fabbed & tacked so I can pull the body off the frame, finish weld everything, and have the frame powdercoated. then, hopefully, over the winter I can bolt it all back together, wire/plumb it, and have it ready for spring.
#48
#49
so, my dad & I fabbed up some light framework for the rear of the car. we used 3/4 angle, and basically just built a simple 'box' for the rear tubs and floor to mount to.
after tacking the angle in, we measured & cut some 20 gauge steel, ran it through his beader/crimper, and tacked it in. then we cut out some of the old floor (that had rust issues) to make a tunnel for the driveshaft & driveshaft loop.
next weekend, we'll start on the recessed firewall/doghouse, front floor, and tin for the trans cover.
after tacking the angle in, we measured & cut some 20 gauge steel, ran it through his beader/crimper, and tacked it in. then we cut out some of the old floor (that had rust issues) to make a tunnel for the driveshaft & driveshaft loop.
next weekend, we'll start on the recessed firewall/doghouse, front floor, and tin for the trans cover.
#50
one last pic showing the rear tubs, tin, and start of the tunnel.
the fuel tank will mount behind the axle, between the frame rails.
it is being custom made, measures 26" wide x 11" deep x 16" long...should be just under 20 gallons. hopefully we'll have that mounted next weekend as well.
the fuel tank will mount behind the axle, between the frame rails.
it is being custom made, measures 26" wide x 11" deep x 16" long...should be just under 20 gallons. hopefully we'll have that mounted next weekend as well.
#54
thanks, I was hoping to be a little farther by now, but between traveling for work & trying to balance time with my wife/son, I don't always make much progress.
I'm wondering if anyone can give me some advice. I didn't get a seat with the car & am wondering if anyone can suggest a seat that might work. either a bench or buckets would work I guess...but a bench would probably work better for the wife & kid. I can't seem to find an original seat, but am wondering if maybe one from a buick or Pontiac may work...I think they were basically the same body?
I'm wondering if anyone can give me some advice. I didn't get a seat with the car & am wondering if anyone can suggest a seat that might work. either a bench or buckets would work I guess...but a bench would probably work better for the wife & kid. I can't seem to find an original seat, but am wondering if maybe one from a buick or Pontiac may work...I think they were basically the same body?
#60
made the rear driveshaft tunnel & welded it in.
it was a good day. next will be to finish the mount for the fuel tank, and cover the rear trunk floor & recessed firewall.
would like to finish all the fab work on the body so I can pull the frame out from under it, seal weld everything, and have the frame powdercoated before winter.
it was a good day. next will be to finish the mount for the fuel tank, and cover the rear trunk floor & recessed firewall.
would like to finish all the fab work on the body so I can pull the frame out from under it, seal weld everything, and have the frame powdercoated before winter.
#62
not much progress to look at.
I fabricated the last 6 body mounts & tack welded them in. then removed the hood, front fenders, side panels, grill & radiator so I could jack up the body & install the body bushings (actually they're just rubber motor mount bushings for a '55 chevy...much cheaper) between the body & frame.
now that the body bushings are in place, I can mock up the steering shaft from the box to the column, mock up the throttle linkage, and mock up the bumper brackets.
the only thing I got done was the bumper brackets; here is a picture of the bumper mounted though the original holes in the body, to the tube frame.
also used clr & steel wool to remove the balance of the rust stains & overspray from the body & doors (that's the reason for the slight shine you can see on the body now).
this weekend, I will try to finish the steering & the firewall.
I fabricated the last 6 body mounts & tack welded them in. then removed the hood, front fenders, side panels, grill & radiator so I could jack up the body & install the body bushings (actually they're just rubber motor mount bushings for a '55 chevy...much cheaper) between the body & frame.
now that the body bushings are in place, I can mock up the steering shaft from the box to the column, mock up the throttle linkage, and mock up the bumper brackets.
the only thing I got done was the bumper brackets; here is a picture of the bumper mounted though the original holes in the body, to the tube frame.
also used clr & steel wool to remove the balance of the rust stains & overspray from the body & doors (that's the reason for the slight shine you can see on the body now).
this weekend, I will try to finish the steering & the firewall.
#68
when I was a kid, my dad spent a ton of time with me working on hot rods, going to the dragstrip, going to swap meets...you know, the good stuff. we never had a bunch of money, so we bought what we could & built the rest. I used to love the swap meets.
I remember being 13 or 14 and going to a swap meet in Jefferson, WI; we had $100 to spend on parts, admission, & food. We left that day with a trunk full; we got a pair of unused M&H Racemaster 10.00x15 slicks, an aluminum moon gas pedal, a fram fuel filter, a set of forged pistons & rods...and a full stomach...those were the days. Unfortunately I think those days are long gone. I went to the same swap meet 2 days ago; what a bunch of junk...total waste of time. Anything worth buying was 3x what it was worth. It seems ebay has taken the entire market of car parts away from swap meets. It's a shame, it's hardly affordable for the average guy/kid to build a hot rod anymore.
Anyway, enough with the rant...back to the build.
#69
so, now that I have the body on the rubber bushings, I wanted to finish the steering. I started at the steering box & worked my way back to the firewall. I had to cut the rear header tube (as the steering shaft dead headed directly into it. I simply cut the tube, flipped it around, & welded it back in. I used a rag joint & rag joint extension to a 3/4" tube. I also used a simple 3/4 round universal to assist in getting the column at a comfortable angle. to finish, I installed a heim to make the shaft solid (and adjustable).
#70
I drilled a hole in my new floor & slid in a steering column; it seemed to sit pretty good. The next thing was to secure the column to the dash. Unfortunately, my car did not come with a dash. After searching for weeks for a 1937 Oldsmobile dash, I finally gave up. I did see one for upwards of 400.00, but there was no way I was paying $400 for a rusty piece of ****. So, I cut out the existing metal, cut more 3/4" angle (to use as framework), and welded it in.
I took some rough measurements, nibbled some .032 embossed aluminum sheeting for a template, and clamped it in. I also cut some guage templates out of cardboard and taped them to the aluminum.
It's not perfect, but it's a good start.
I took some rough measurements, nibbled some .032 embossed aluminum sheeting for a template, and clamped it in. I also cut some guage templates out of cardboard and taped them to the aluminum.
It's not perfect, but it's a good start.
#71
I decided to take a break from the interior, and move to the back of the car.
At the same time I was looking for a dash, I was also looking for a license light bracket...it seems these are worth their weight in gold as well. I found one online for only $600; I decided to pass.
I need to cover all the holes currently in the trunk, but do not plan on painting the car so I used a piece of cardboard as a template, traced a design big enough to cover the bolt holes, and made a cover out of 1/8" plate. I then drilled the holes, made a gasket out of some rubber sheet, and bolted it on the trunk.
For the license plate, I've decided to use an old parachute mount (as a parachute bolt pattern is pretty close to a license plate pattern). I bolted the plate to the mount & held it in place with one of my welding magnets. Next weekend I will connect the 2 pieces using 1/4 or 5/16 round-stock.
At the same time I was looking for a dash, I was also looking for a license light bracket...it seems these are worth their weight in gold as well. I found one online for only $600; I decided to pass.
I need to cover all the holes currently in the trunk, but do not plan on painting the car so I used a piece of cardboard as a template, traced a design big enough to cover the bolt holes, and made a cover out of 1/8" plate. I then drilled the holes, made a gasket out of some rubber sheet, and bolted it on the trunk.
For the license plate, I've decided to use an old parachute mount (as a parachute bolt pattern is pretty close to a license plate pattern). I bolted the plate to the mount & held it in place with one of my welding magnets. Next weekend I will connect the 2 pieces using 1/4 or 5/16 round-stock.
#73
originally, I had planned on just ordering one of the speedway motors column drop mounts, but was concerned it may not be strong enough. it seems everyone pulls themselves in & out of cars via the steering wheel. I've seen wheels/columns flex, and did not want mine to.
I considered using one of my old aluminum connecting rods, but I think that method has been done a few too many times.
what I built may be a little overkill, and may be a little overthought...but it is adjustable, and should work fine.
I used a 1 3/4" collar (with set screw). I drilled and tapped it for two 3/8" bolts. I shortened some 3/8" tie rods, and bolted them to the collar on one end, and to a tab on the other end. this will allow me to raise/lower the column after I have the pedals & seat permanently mounted. once I have it where I want it...i'll lock it in place.
I considered using one of my old aluminum connecting rods, but I think that method has been done a few too many times.
what I built may be a little overkill, and may be a little overthought...but it is adjustable, and should work fine.
I used a 1 3/4" collar (with set screw). I drilled and tapped it for two 3/8" bolts. I shortened some 3/8" tie rods, and bolted them to the collar on one end, and to a tab on the other end. this will allow me to raise/lower the column after I have the pedals & seat permanently mounted. once I have it where I want it...i'll lock it in place.
#75
man that is some engineering going into that puppy, I am not sold on the license plate mount but that is just my taste LOL. don't mean a thing , it is certainly well executed, I like the steering set up..
#76
#77
so, needed to figure out some small detail stuff before I take the body off the frame. I started with the shifter. I took some flat stock aluminum, bent it in a brake, and put it on the tunnel. I still have to round the edges, cut a taper, and build some angle brackets for it to bolt to...but you can see the basic idea
#78
also started making the dash. I made the top part out of steel, broke it, and punched mounting holes. then I cut a flat plate of aluminum, cut some holes for gauges & switches, and bolted it in. it's not done...2 more gauges to cut in, but it's close.
#79
the last thing I've done, I bought a few dynomax turbo mufflers, 3" in/out. bought some 's' bent pipes from hedman, and cut/tacked it together. it barely fits between the ladder bars & driveshaft loop...but it should work.