Winter is coming and no heat
October 8th, 2015, 10:57 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 72
Winter is coming and no heat
68 supreme w/ac, The blower turns on and blows air but the heater does not kick on. I have done some research and I am trying to figure out if the heater valve is bad?, or if the heater core isnt getting anything in there, or a vaccum line. For the most part what is the main issue for the car not blowing out hot air?
October 8th, 2015, 11:23 AM
#2
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Heater valve broken, blocked, or not receiving right vacuum signal is the most likely.
I do not recall whether vacuum opened or closed the valve in your year, so you'll have to check your CSM.
After that, make sure the right vacuum is being applied.
After that, make sure that the valve is opening.
- Eric
I do not recall whether vacuum opened or closed the valve in your year, so you'll have to check your CSM.
After that, make sure the right vacuum is being applied.
After that, make sure that the valve is opening.
- Eric
October 8th, 2015, 12:26 PM
#4
Oldsdruid
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southside Vajenya
Posts: 10,284
Check:
1) coolant level, then check antifreeze concentration. You need at least 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water, both for freeze protection and proper cooling and heater operation.
2) if those are good, feel heater hoses. The one from back of intake to core should be HOT and core to water pump a little cooler. If block to core isn't hot, either the hot water valve is not working as Eric said, or there is some flow restriction in the heater core itself.
3) No vacuum hose is above suspicion. Make sure the storage tank to manifold vacuum line is intact and also storage tank to HVAC control (where it disappears into firewall).
4) Remote possibility of a bad selector or heater control valve on the HVAC head, after 45+ years. They were made of potmetal in those years and may have warped enough where the internal ports don't align.
Good luck.
1) coolant level, then check antifreeze concentration. You need at least 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water, both for freeze protection and proper cooling and heater operation.
2) if those are good, feel heater hoses. The one from back of intake to core should be HOT and core to water pump a little cooler. If block to core isn't hot, either the hot water valve is not working as Eric said, or there is some flow restriction in the heater core itself.
3) No vacuum hose is above suspicion. Make sure the storage tank to manifold vacuum line is intact and also storage tank to HVAC control (where it disappears into firewall).
4) Remote possibility of a bad selector or heater control valve on the HVAC head, after 45+ years. They were made of potmetal in those years and may have warped enough where the internal ports don't align.
Good luck.
October 9th, 2015, 10:16 AM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 72
Check:
1) coolant level, then check antifreeze concentration. You need at least 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water, both for freeze protection and proper cooling and heater operation.
2) if those are good, feel heater hoses. The one from back of intake to core should be HOT and core to water pump a little cooler. If block to core isn't hot, either the hot water valve is not working as Eric said, or there is some flow restriction in the heater core itself.
3) No vacuum hose is above suspicion. Make sure the storage tank to manifold vacuum line is intact and also storage tank to HVAC control (where it disappears into firewall).
4) Remote possibility of a bad selector or heater control valve on the HVAC head, after 45+ years. They were made of potmetal in those years and may have warped enough where the internal ports don't align.
Good luck.
1) coolant level, then check antifreeze concentration. You need at least 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water, both for freeze protection and proper cooling and heater operation.
2) if those are good, feel heater hoses. The one from back of intake to core should be HOT and core to water pump a little cooler. If block to core isn't hot, either the hot water valve is not working as Eric said, or there is some flow restriction in the heater core itself.
3) No vacuum hose is above suspicion. Make sure the storage tank to manifold vacuum line is intact and also storage tank to HVAC control (where it disappears into firewall).
4) Remote possibility of a bad selector or heater control valve on the HVAC head, after 45+ years. They were made of potmetal in those years and may have warped enough where the internal ports don't align.
Good luck.
October 9th, 2015, 11:27 AM
#6
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
While you're at it, make sure water blows through the heater core properly.
- Eric
October 13th, 2015, 01:01 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 13,730
Straight water (or any concentration of antifreeze/water) will still heat up to thermostat temp and give hot air out the heater, and it will also cool the engine adequately (actually a lower concentration of antifreeze has a higher heat capacity so it absorbs and transmits heat better). What a 50/50 mix does is reduce the freezing point by 66ºF, prevent corrosion, and increase the boiling point by ~15ºF.
I run 30% antifreeze in my car as that gives freeze protection to ~0ºF and our winter temps rarely ever get into the 20s, so no worries there; the higher water concentration provides more cooling capability during the summer; and the 30% gives me corrosion inhibitors.
But yeah, 50/50 mix is easy to do and gives good all around protection.
Coolantboilingpointchart.jpg
Thermalpropertiesofcoolingsystemmaterials.jpg
Last edited by Fun71; October 13th, 2015 at 01:03 PM.
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