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Old June 21st, 2015, 11:18 AM
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68 unique?

Hi all. Can anybody tell me as much about the 1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
Convertible. What is unique about 68 vs all other years. Exterior, interior options, engines, trans, rear ends, colors, etc. The more info the better. Ive had this car 23 years and am finding out I dont know nearly enough about it. I am finally in the process of restoring and need lots of stuff. Just not sure what needs to be 68 and 68 only, or will work from different years. Looking for split front bench seats along with rear seats at this point. Thanks for any help.

Lee.
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Old June 21st, 2015, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 1968oldscutlass
Hi all. Can anybody tell me as much about the 1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
Convertible. What is unique about 68 vs all other years. Exterior, interior options, engines, trans, rear ends, colors, etc. The more info the better. Ive had this car 23 years and am finding out I dont know nearly enough about it. I am finally in the process of restoring and need lots of stuff. Just not sure what needs to be 68 and 68 only, or will work from different years. Looking for split front bench seats along with rear seats at this point. Thanks for any help.

Lee.
Just to keep the terminology correct, you are looking for a bench seat from a 2dr car. A "split front bench" is actually two separate seats that move forward and backward independently, like two bucket seats that are wide and touch in the middle. Split bench seats can be 50/50, 60/40, or 40/60. My 86 Caprice wagon has a split bench seat. My 2dr Cutlii do not.

Yeah, I realize that some of the aftermarket upholstery vendors call 2dr seats a "split bench". That doesn't make it correct any more than when Mercedes calls a four door a "coupe".
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Old June 21st, 2015, 01:23 PM
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Good to know. Thanks. Is it true the front bench needs to be from an actuall 68 to be correct.
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Old June 21st, 2015, 01:51 PM
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What do you mean "correct?"

Proper for a 1968?

Or will it fit?

If it's the latter, you have more choices, but there's a lot of things that aren't underneath that are particular to a '68.

But, in the end, it's your car so it's what makes you happy that counts.
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Old June 21st, 2015, 02:09 PM
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Yes, proper for a 68. I want them just like the originals. No head rest's.
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Old June 21st, 2015, 02:18 PM
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Hood hinges are unique to a '68. And although '68 fenders look like '69 fenders, real '68 fenders are unique to a '68 because of the hood hinge attachment pattern. Replacement fenders had bolt patterns built into them for both '68 and '69 hood hinges. And the fender stainless trim for a '68 is two-piece whereas the same looking trim for a '69 is one-piece, but these will inter-change. Stainless trim for the doors and quarters is the same between '68 and '69.


'68 was the last year you could get the optional reclining passenger bucket seat if you had bucket seats.


Trunk lids for the '68 are different than those for the '69, as are bumpers front and rear.


Do you have disc brakes? The caliper for a '68 is a heavier duty version than that on a '69.


The interior upholstery patterns are different between a '68 and a '69 even though at first glance they do kinda look the same.


Door panels are different between the two years. The '68 had the wind wing window and the '69 only has the single window in the door.


Hoods are different between '68 and '69.


Tail lights are unique to '68.


Ignition switch is in the dash for '68. It's in the steering column for '69, so that makes the steering columns different, too.


Even though the glove box doors look the same for '68 and '69 (and will inter-change), they are slightly different. You can see the difference around the lock button if you compare the two side-by-side.


The 4-core radiator fan shroud is unique to '68. A '69 fan shroud will fit and is often used because of the rarity of a good '68 shroud.


That's about all my short brainstorming adventure can think of right now!


Randy C.
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Old June 21st, 2015, 02:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 1968oldscutlass
Yes, proper for a 68. I want them just like the originals. No head rest's.
Head rests were an available option in 1968. They were federally required for 1969-up and thus on all cars. The seat frames are essentially the same for 68-72. Obviously the upholstery pattern will be different, but if you need to recover it anyway, that doesn't matter. If you really don't want headrests, just don't reinstall them after recovering.
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Old June 21st, 2015, 03:40 PM
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Wow!! This is good stuff. I truly appreciate all of this info, guys. Looking forward to more. Does anyone know about the rear ends for this car. Ive heard about 12 bolt covers with 10 bolt ring gears (or visa versa) is this true. I have not pulled my diff cover yet to see what I have. I did pull it years ago to change gasket and fluid but didnt even know to look around in there. I would to swap out my one wheel wonder carrier and high gears ( I think they are in the 270s) for a posi and something along a 370 gear. I will also be going to an overdrive (4 spd) trans. Engine is not stock. Has a built 69 olds 455. Will be going through it also. Nothing major, just cleaning it up and maybe throwing in some upgrades. Its already a beast, but you cant have to much power, right?
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Old June 21st, 2015, 04:20 PM
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Yes, your car likely came with the O-Type 12 bolt rear (12 bolt cover and 8.5" 10 bolt ring gear). The 68 and 69 O-Types are the same; in 1970 the axle shafts and bearing area of the housing changed due to a different style bearing and seal.

If you want to retain the O-Type and install new gears and posi, be aware that posi and gears are a bit difficult to locate as they are specific to this rear that had a 4 year production run - and there is no 3.73 ratio available. 3.42 and 3.90 are the closest. Brian Trick (507olds) and monzaz are good sources for these parts.
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Old June 21st, 2015, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by 1968oldscutlass
Ive heard about 12 bolt covers with 10 bolt ring gears (or visa versa) is this true.
Unless your car was built in Canada, it came from the factory with a Type O axle. As noted, this has twelve bolts on the cover but ten bolts holding the 8.5" ring gear. It is NOT a "12 bolt", despite what some people may try to tell you. Parts are unique to the Type O and availability of parts is limited. One interesting factoid is that while there are only ten bolts on the ring gear, they are larger than those on the Chevy 12 bolt and actually have a higher total shear strength. Obviously this isn't the only thing that determines rear axle strength, but it's interesting that the Type O is actually stronger in that respect.
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Old June 21st, 2015, 04:47 PM
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Okay, so now the question is: in your opinions, do I go with the 3.42 or 3.90 gear. Keep in mind Im not dragging, just like some stop lite to stop lite action when Im feeling frisky. More of a cruising car. Also, I think I can get away with a bit lower gear with the overdrive, but not sure, as I have never been in one to compare.
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Old June 21st, 2015, 08:23 PM
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In my opinion, 3.42 is the better of the two options. Even better, I believe, is the 3.23. With the 3.23, you will probably have better luck in finding the right gears and posi unit. 3.42 an 3.90 will be a lot, a lot, more expensive, too.


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Old June 22nd, 2015, 03:19 PM
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I think I agree with you, Randy. This car has so much torque, I can get away with a higher gear and still have some serious fun.
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