1967 Glove box door lock removal
May 18th, 2015, 10:27 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Tri Cities WA
Posts: 187
1967 Glove box door lock removal
Hey guys I need your expertise. ......I'm trying to the the lock out of my glove box door because I got a new glove box door. How do I get a hold of the trim nut to spin it out? What's the trick?
November 29th, 2015, 07:23 PM
#3
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
pull the cylinder out first
you have a body manual? Chilton's?
I think it involves depressing a tang backside [Cylinder may have to be in either locked or unlocked rotation], then inserting a key... which holds the tang and the similar tumblers within the cylinder, then use the key and some prying and/or latch manipulation to get the cylinder out.
Then you just need the OCTAGONAL tool to grip the bezel's ID
I made one out of a stick of plastic. Wood might do. Or a finger. Either way, wiggle-turn the lock both ways whilst urging the bezel continuously CCW and she should come right out.
Reassemble in reverse order, removing the key is the final step, which allows the tang to secure cylinder in place.
you have a body manual? Chilton's?
I think it involves depressing a tang backside [Cylinder may have to be in either locked or unlocked rotation], then inserting a key... which holds the tang and the similar tumblers within the cylinder, then use the key and some prying and/or latch manipulation to get the cylinder out.
Then you just need the OCTAGONAL tool to grip the bezel's ID
I made one out of a stick of plastic. Wood might do. Or a finger. Either way, wiggle-turn the lock both ways whilst urging the bezel continuously CCW and she should come right out.
Reassemble in reverse order, removing the key is the final step, which allows the tang to secure cylinder in place.
November 30th, 2015, 02:20 PM
#6
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Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Warwick New York
Posts: 49
Go to bros 1965 442 web page there is a complete write up with pictures. The 65 is the same as 67 http://www.442bro.com/ go to how to do it
December 8th, 2015, 08:09 PM
#10
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
pull the cylinder out first - if possible
I think it involves depressing a tang backside [Cylinder may have to be in either locked or unlocked rotation],
==================
I just went thru this on a 78 Vette
It wanted the glovebox to be open [for access to the assembly] and the lock locked, so the tang is in the slot and available for pressing...
then inserting a key... which holds the tang and the similar tumblers within the cylinder, then use the key and some prying and/or latch manipulation to get the cylinder out.
================
This only required "a" key that fits in, so, the same blank or some other scrap key. Any key or blank that enters will serve to hold the retainer tab down after depressing it, though you may need to then remove said key and convince each tumbler past the opening also.
.....Of course, how do you get the lock to LOCKED after opening the lid then?? Maybe you do need "the" key for easiest results. Use the key punched out tabs that the owner put away for safe keeping. Ha ha ha. Extract same-key lock from trunk or console and use its code to have a "the" key made... or, use the keyless method.
wiggle-turn the lock both ways whilst urging the bezel continuously CCW using your fingernails or a pick or whatever works for you. I have been able to remove the bezel this way on units for which I had no key.
Here is a precise Bro-Link
http://442restoration.homestead.com/..._Box_Lock.html
to which I would add- it's not a hexagonal hole, it's octagonal. Use the right tool or at least a good wrong one, like pliers jaw. Not a Hex tool. Whittle a dowel to suit. While you have the cylinder out, MAKE A DAMN KEY if you don't have one. At the very least, write down the key code, right?
I think it involves depressing a tang backside [Cylinder may have to be in either locked or unlocked rotation],
==================
I just went thru this on a 78 Vette
It wanted the glovebox to be open [for access to the assembly] and the lock locked, so the tang is in the slot and available for pressing...
then inserting a key... which holds the tang and the similar tumblers within the cylinder, then use the key and some prying and/or latch manipulation to get the cylinder out.
================
This only required "a" key that fits in, so, the same blank or some other scrap key. Any key or blank that enters will serve to hold the retainer tab down after depressing it, though you may need to then remove said key and convince each tumbler past the opening also.
.....Of course, how do you get the lock to LOCKED after opening the lid then?? Maybe you do need "the" key for easiest results. Use the key punched out tabs that the owner put away for safe keeping. Ha ha ha. Extract same-key lock from trunk or console and use its code to have a "the" key made... or, use the keyless method.
wiggle-turn the lock both ways whilst urging the bezel continuously CCW using your fingernails or a pick or whatever works for you. I have been able to remove the bezel this way on units for which I had no key.
Here is a precise Bro-Link
http://442restoration.homestead.com/..._Box_Lock.html
to which I would add- it's not a hexagonal hole, it's octagonal. Use the right tool or at least a good wrong one, like pliers jaw. Not a Hex tool. Whittle a dowel to suit. While you have the cylinder out, MAKE A DAMN KEY if you don't have one. At the very least, write down the key code, right?
Last edited by Octania; December 8th, 2015 at 08:16 PM.
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