Installing back seat bottom

Chumley · July 3rd, 2012, 02:36 PM

Finally got the back seats upholstered as good as they are going to get. I'm having a problem getting one side of the seat bottom to lock down into the bracket on the floor. Removing the seat was a breeze compared to what I've been going through the last couple of attempts. (72 Supreme) I can see under the seat that the part of the seat frame that fits into the bracket is about 1/2" high of locking into place. There also seems to be more of a gap between the floor and bottom edge of the seat front than when I removed it. All I did was replace the carpet/padding and recover the seat. Am I missing some little trick or technique? Chumley

MDchanic · July 3rd, 2012, 03:31 PM

You've got to push really hard from a very awkward position (unless the front seat is out), and you may have to push hard back and down at the same time.
In your case, maybe it would help to have someone else push down after you start pushing back.

- Eric

oldcutlass · July 3rd, 2012, 04:52 PM

It is bugger to get it back latched, as stated above.

Allan R · July 3rd, 2012, 06:52 PM

You push ONE side in first, then the other. Make mechanical advantage work for you, not against you.

First, slide the front seat forward as far as it will go. Incline the seat for more room.

Now line the seat up with the back tilted down (this would be a good time to also put the seat belts on top of the seat).

Note the location of the 2 latch clips on the floor pan; then note the location of the front retainer bar on the seat frame. Hint, put a piece of tape on the seat / carpet to line them up.

Push in/down at the first one; you can usually hear it go into place. It takes SOME force but you don't need to be 'da terminator' to do this. Repeat the process on the other side. If one side is properly secured it will not pop loose when you do the other side. 2 minute job at tops. I've done this many times and it works like a charm every time.

Chumley · July 10th, 2012, 02:17 PM

Thanks, I do have one side in(passenger) It went in with no problem. The driver side is lined up, but just will not move down far enough to engage the retainer. When I push down, the springs just compress but not the frame. Maybe I'm pushing on the wrong spot? I'll rest up for a few days, eat my Wheaties and spinach and try again.

Allan R · July 10th, 2012, 02:21 PM

Chum,
Press in on the lower front of the seat where it's got to latch. Much easier. If you press in at the top of the seat you're just compressing the foam and some of the springs.

Lady72nRob71 · July 10th, 2012, 07:08 PM

My seat was tough to get in too, after being reupholstered. The back end will be thicker and tougher to compress under the seat back. Remember, push the bottom IN and DOWN at the same time. I actually had to use some 2x4s wrapped with towels to lever off the front seat...

Allan R · July 10th, 2012, 07:30 PM

Wow Rob, Lady sounds like she's tight! must be all that sound deadener you put all over the floor?

MDchanic · July 10th, 2012, 07:38 PM

Yeah, the only part of the seat frame that will push the clip backward is the bottom rim, so you need to push backward against the very bottom-most structural part of the cushion.

For those of you who haven't done it, imagine squatting in a space just large enough for your feet and reaching down between your legs to put about 30-40 pounds of pressure straight ahead of you (ie: at a 90° angle to your arms, which are reaching straight down) against a ¼" wide horizontal strip that is about 6" above the bottoms of your feet, with nothing to effectively brace against (because the seat-backs have to be forward for you to even fit in there).

It's no picnic.

- Eric

Chumley · July 12th, 2012, 04:44 PM

The spinach and Wheaties didn't work. I'll pump some iron for a couple of weeks. I figurered out the "pushing on the bottom of the frame" thing. The retainer bar on the frame is on the top of the bracket, I just can't get it back far enough to drop down into the lock position. It must only be 1/16" or less. I think I'll get out the 2x4's like Rob did. Thanks for all the moral support.

Don R. · July 12th, 2012, 05:38 PM

I had this problem on a few cars, started using a heavy rubber hammer to persuade the lower seat frame and have not had trouble since.

Allan R · July 12th, 2012, 06:18 PM

Chum,
Here's a suggestion I found worked pretty good on my car when I had a tough time getting the rear seat back in. Usually I had trouble with the drivers side. So what I did was installed the tough side first (drivers) because I could lift the seat up lengthwise to see where the problem was on the latching. Didn't affect how the passenger side went in.

I know you said the seats got re upholstered. Check the bottom of the drivers side where the latch point is to see whether the upholsterer might have bent the lower frame up a bit? That would make it a bear to get the right amount of downward force to install. Measure the side that goes in easy and compare heights on the side that doesn't. Also check the floor latching area to see if the carpet/underlay at the front of the seat may be keeping the seat from going down far enough. I know how tough these seats can be to get in, but in all honesty I don't think it should take 2X4's to lever them in. The factory didn't do it that way.... There has to be something simple that's just being overlooked.

69442C · July 13th, 2012, 05:34 AM

Here's a method I used on more than one occasion that proved successful for both installing and removing a stubborn seat bottom. I would open the door, sit on the rocker, have my back against the door and hinge area and I would place my foot on the lowest part of seat bottom and push it with my foot/leg. That usually gave me enough leverage to get it to move back and drop into place. As Allan mentioned, make sure the carpet is not in the way.

Chumley · July 19th, 2012, 01:09 PM

Thanks for the ideas. I covered the seat myself, so I know the frame is not bent. Also the carpet is not an issue, there is plenty of clearance. I just need that extra bit of testosterone. I'll try the last suggestion, as my legs are pretty strong still. Or, if I can loosen the other side and do the bear side first, that sounds good. I'll let you all know what works so the next guy won't have to struggle like I have. Chumley

Allan R · July 19th, 2012, 01:21 PM

Here's what you need...

Lady72nRob71 · July 19th, 2012, 01:29 PM

The problem is that the foam will be really puffy at the back edge of the seat bottom, so it has to compress as it slides under the bottom of the seat back. It is hard enough to get it in without sompressing anything. After a several years, and after heating and cooling, the foam will stay compressed, so the next time it should be easier.
The 2x4 levering got mine in fairly easily.

brown7373 · July 19th, 2012, 02:58 PM

I had the exact issue with my 72 after new padding and covers. Front seats out is easier, but I did it later by a 4 x 4 against the front frame and a small bottle jack pushing on a padded 2 x 4 against the rear seat bottom. A hydraulic jack has a lot of power in a confined space.

mrolds69 · July 19th, 2012, 05:35 PM

One other thing to check is the seat belt mounting bolts/attachment. I had this prob before, I had also taken out the belts to clean them. I had the chrome belt tabs going the wrong way...I think pointed down with the webbing going down. No way would the seat go in. Flipped them and fixed it. It's a thought.........

July 3rd, 2012, 02:36 PM	#1 (permalink)
Chumley Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 414	Installing back seat bottom Finally got the back seats upholstered as good as they are going to get. I'm having a problem getting one side of the seat bottom to lock down into the bracket on the floor. Removing the seat was a breeze compared to what I've been going through the last couple of attempts. (72 Supreme) I can see under the seat that the part of the seat frame that fits into the bracket is about 1/2" high of locking into place. There also seems to be more of a gap between the floor and bottom edge of the seat front than when I removed it. All I did was replace the carpet/padding and recover the seat. Am I missing some little trick or technique? Chumley

July 3rd, 2012, 04:52 PM	#3 (permalink)
oldcutlass Registered User Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Granbury, Texas Posts: 6,451	It is bugger to get it back latched, as stated above. __________________ There is nothing that can't be solved with a suitable amount of explosives! 1967 Oldsmobile Cutlass 468/ Turbo 400 1963 Plymouth Fury (Sold) 2006 Mustang GT (Momma's) 2006 Mustang Coupe(son'S) http://s1141.photobucket.com/albums/n587/oldcutlass/ http://s1141.photobucket.com/albums/...lass/plymouth/

July 10th, 2012, 07:08 PM	#7 (permalink)
Lady72nRob71 Moderator Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Plano, TX Posts: 10,575	My seat was tough to get in too, after being reupholstered. The back end will be thicker and tougher to compress under the seat back. Remember, push the bottom IN and DOWN at the same time. I actually had to use some 2x4s wrapped with towels to lever off the front seat... __________________ -Rob Young 1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible- (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...) http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets/ Lady's interior makeover Rally Pac stuff Front end job Underhood resto 1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine" 1978 Furd Pinto (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp" - in the family since new. 1997 Cadillac STS 1999 H arley-Davidson Sportster - "the Freedom Machine"

July 12th, 2012, 05:38 PM	#11 (permalink)
Don R. Registered User Join Date: Feb 2011 Posts: 143	I had this problem on a few cars, started using a heavy rubber hammer to persuade the lower seat frame and have not had trouble since. __________________ Don Rundgren McKinney, Texas 1963 Starfire 88

July 19th, 2012, 01:29 PM	#16 (permalink)
Lady72nRob71 Moderator Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Plano, TX Posts: 10,575	The problem is that the foam will be really puffy at the back edge of the seat bottom, so it has to compress as it slides under the bottom of the seat back. It is hard enough to get it in without sompressing anything. After a several years, and after heating and cooling, the foam will stay compressed, so the next time it should be easier. The 2x4 levering got mine in fairly easily. __________________ -Rob Young 1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible- (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...) http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets/ Lady's interior makeover Rally Pac stuff Front end job Underhood resto 1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine" 1978 Furd Pinto (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp" - in the family since new. 1997 Cadillac STS 1999 H arley-Davidson Sportster - "the Freedom Machine"

July 3rd, 2012, 03:31 PM	#2 (permalink)
MDchanic Connoisseur d'Junque Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Maine Posts: 8,572	You've got to push really hard from a very awkward position (unless the front seat is out), and you may have to push hard back and down at the same time. In your case, maybe it would help to have someone else push down after you start pushing back. - Eric

July 3rd, 2012, 06:52 PM	#4 (permalink)
Allan R Just an Olds Guy Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Edmonton, Alberta. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh" Posts: 12,755	You push ONE side in first, then the other. Make mechanical advantage work for you, not against you. First, slide the front seat forward as far as it will go. Incline the seat for more room. Now line the seat up with the back tilted down (this would be a good time to also put the seat belts on top of the seat). Note the location of the 2 latch clips on the floor pan; then note the location of the front retainer bar on the seat frame. Hint, put a piece of tape on the seat / carpet to line them up. Push in/down at the first one; you can usually hear it go into place. It takes SOME force but you don't need to be 'da terminator' to do this. Repeat the process on the other side. If one side is properly secured it will not pop loose when you do the other side. 2 minute job at tops. I've done this many times and it works like a charm every time.

July 10th, 2012, 02:17 PM	#5 (permalink)
Chumley Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 414	Thanks, I do have one side in(passenger) It went in with no problem. The driver side is lined up, but just will not move down far enough to engage the retainer. When I push down, the springs just compress but not the frame. Maybe I'm pushing on the wrong spot? I'll rest up for a few days, eat my Wheaties and spinach and try again.

July 10th, 2012, 02:21 PM	#6 (permalink)
Allan R Just an Olds Guy Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Edmonton, Alberta. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh" Posts: 12,755	Chum, Press in on the lower front of the seat where it's got to latch. Much easier. If you press in at the top of the seat you're just compressing the foam and some of the springs.

July 10th, 2012, 07:30 PM	#8 (permalink)
Allan R Just an Olds Guy Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Edmonton, Alberta. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh" Posts: 12,755	Wow Rob, Lady sounds like she's tight! must be all that sound deadener you put all over the floor?

July 10th, 2012, 07:38 PM	#9 (permalink)
MDchanic Connoisseur d'Junque Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Maine Posts: 8,572	Yeah, the only part of the seat frame that will push the clip backward is the bottom rim, so you need to push backward against the very bottom-most structural part of the cushion. For those of you who haven't done it, imagine squatting in a space just large enough for your feet and reaching down between your legs to put about 30-40 pounds of pressure straight ahead of you (ie: at a 90° angle to your arms, which are reaching straight down) against a ¼" wide horizontal strip that is about 6" above the bottoms of your feet, with nothing to effectively brace against (because the seat-backs have to be forward for you to even fit in there). It's no picnic. - Eric

July 12th, 2012, 04:44 PM	#10 (permalink)
Chumley Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 414	The spinach and Wheaties didn't work. I'll pump some iron for a couple of weeks. I figurered out the "pushing on the bottom of the frame" thing. The retainer bar on the frame is on the top of the bracket, I just can't get it back far enough to drop down into the lock position. It must only be 1/16" or less. I think I'll get out the 2x4's like Rob did. Thanks for all the moral support.

July 12th, 2012, 06:18 PM	#12 (permalink)
Allan R Just an Olds Guy Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Edmonton, Alberta. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh" Posts: 12,755	Chum, Here's a suggestion I found worked pretty good on my car when I had a tough time getting the rear seat back in. Usually I had trouble with the drivers side. So what I did was installed the tough side first (drivers) because I could lift the seat up lengthwise to see where the problem was on the latching. Didn't affect how the passenger side went in. I know you said the seats got re upholstered. Check the bottom of the drivers side where the latch point is to see whether the upholsterer might have bent the lower frame up a bit? That would make it a bear to get the right amount of downward force to install. Measure the side that goes in easy and compare heights on the side that doesn't. Also check the floor latching area to see if the carpet/underlay at the front of the seat may be keeping the seat from going down far enough. I know how tough these seats can be to get in, but in all honesty I don't think it should take 2X4's to lever them in. The factory didn't do it that way.... There has to be something simple that's just being overlooked.

July 13th, 2012, 05:34 AM	#13 (permalink)
69442C Registered User Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Maryland Posts: 1,342	Here's a method I used on more than one occasion that proved successful for both installing and removing a stubborn seat bottom. I would open the door, sit on the rocker, have my back against the door and hinge area and I would place my foot on the lowest part of seat bottom and push it with my foot/leg. That usually gave me enough leverage to get it to move back and drop into place. As Allan mentioned, make sure the carpet is not in the way.

July 19th, 2012, 01:09 PM	#14 (permalink)
Chumley Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 414	Thanks for the ideas. I covered the seat myself, so I know the frame is not bent. Also the carpet is not an issue, there is plenty of clearance. I just need that extra bit of testosterone. I'll try the last suggestion, as my legs are pretty strong still. Or, if I can loosen the other side and do the bear side first, that sounds good. I'll let you all know what works so the next guy won't have to struggle like I have. Chumley

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July 19th, 2012, 01:21 PM	#15 (permalink)
Allan R Just an Olds Guy Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Edmonton, Alberta. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh" Posts: 12,755	Here's what you need...

July 19th, 2012, 02:58 PM	#17 (permalink)
brown7373 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Fort Pierce, FL Posts: 437	I had the exact issue with my 72 after new padding and covers. Front seats out is easier, but I did it later by a 4 x 4 against the front frame and a small bottle jack pushing on a padded 2 x 4 against the rear seat bottom. A hydraulic jack has a lot of power in a confined space. __________________

July 19th, 2012, 05:35 PM	#18 (permalink)
mrolds69 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2010 Posts: 78	One other thing to check is the seat belt mounting bolts/attachment. I had this prob before, I had also taken out the belts to clean them. I had the chrome belt tabs going the wrong way...I think pointed down with the webbing going down. No way would the seat go in. Flipped them and fixed it. It's a thought......... __________________ 1969 Oldsmobile 442 Senior Preservation 1967 Buick GS400 Senior Preservation 1999 Mustang Convertble and many more!