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Old July 13th, 2011, 08:18 AM   #1
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72' Cutlass S/4-4-2 Seat Buttons Install

Hey All,

I finally got my seat covers shipped (dark saddle if anyone is wondering) For a front 50/50 split bench seat But....

The buttons didnt come installed, the seats were marked where they should be, but they came in a package with a sort of foldable clip on the back of each one.

Anyone ever install these buttons? Did you make a hole before you pushed the buttons in or say poke the fabric with a hot nail first?

I'm just worried about my saddle covers ripping after a few weeks of use..

Thanks all!

-Tony
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Old November 11th, 2011, 05:52 AM   #2
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Thats what I call the wife "my playstation"
did you get your buttons installed mn71w-30 had good way of putting them on
check his posts or give him a shout .
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Old November 11th, 2011, 07:48 AM   #3
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Hey,

Yeah i totally had them installed. Heated up a nail first, made the hole and then pushed them right through. Worked out well.

I only found out later after measuring and making all the holes that PUI actually marked the proper location on the back of the seat covers... Heh
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Old November 11th, 2011, 10:33 AM   #4
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Hey Tony,
What's the PUI cover quality like? There's so much discussion about who makes the best product. Does it have the nice 'deep' seam lines like the originals? Post a pic. I'm thinking about replacing my front and rears soon. The OEM material is getting pretty hard, and I noticed the PS seat has a small crack starting.
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Old November 11th, 2011, 11:01 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Allan R View Post
Hey Tony,
What's the PUI cover quality like? There's so much discussion about who makes the best product. Does it have the nice 'deep' seam lines like the originals? Post a pic. I'm thinking about replacing my front and rears soon. The OEM material is getting pretty hard, and I noticed the PS seat has a small crack starting.
Hey Allan,

I've got the rears installed so far. (i'm still waiting on the foam delivery for the front fabric. I used regular boat and marine foam so it wouldnt get that nasty mold smell like my last ones did. Here is a picture of what the rears look like.

I can take a pic of the front for you tonight, but i only have the fabric, not on cushion or anything.

For myself, i went for best bang for my buck. Legendary makes amazing stuff, but i got mine off ebay for a really good deal when i found someone wanting to sell a brand new set for about a hundred dollars cheaper than retail in parts place or tamraz's.

Click the image to open in full size.
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72' Cutlass S/4-4-2 Seat Buttons Install-bench-seat.jpg  
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Old November 11th, 2011, 11:23 AM   #6
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U got C/S upholstery

You do realize that's the upholstery for a Cutlass Supreme right? The Cutlass S is completely different. Here's my back seat (original unmolestied OEM). If you were intending this recover to use the Supreme (badged as C/S) pattern, disregard. What I've found is that a lot of folks out there don't know the difference between Cutlass S and Cutlass Supreme especially at the parts depots. Sure they're both Olds, but they were different body lines at the rear quarters and roof, + their trim lines were different too, including the door panels. I sure hope that in no way have I insulted you with this comment.
Click the image to open in full size.

See what I mean about the deep seam lines?
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Old November 11th, 2011, 11:52 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allan R View Post
You do realize that's the upholstery for a Cutlass Supreme right? The Cutlass S is completely different. Here's my back seat (original unmolestied OEM). If you were intending this recover to use the Supreme (badged as C/S) pattern, disregard. What I've found is that a lot of folks out there don't know the difference between Cutlass S and Cutlass Supreme especially at the parts depots. Sure they're both Olds, but they were different body lines at the rear quarters and roof, + their trim lines were different too, including the door panels. I sure hope that in no way have I insulted you with this comment.


See what I mean about the deep seam lines?
Hey Allan,

No worries! The rear seat was purposely Mismatched. Although i would have loved to get real Cutlass 'S' Rear Covers.

I bought those rear PUI supreme seat covers when i was back in college on ebay. They cost around 55 or 60 dollars, it was all i could afford at the time. My front seat covers are actual Cutlass 'S' covers that i bought 2 weeks ago. I'll grab some pics tonight and upload them to this thread.

I totally know what you mean. Your seats look amazing. You could probably sell your seat covers for more on ebay than buying brand new ones!
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Old November 14th, 2011, 08:55 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Allan R View Post
Hey Tony,
What's the PUI cover quality like? There's so much discussion about who makes the best product. Does it have the nice 'deep' seam lines like the originals? Post a pic. I'm thinking about replacing my front and rears soon. The OEM material is getting pretty hard, and I noticed the PS seat has a small crack starting.
Allan,

Here is a picture of my seat covers as they came out of the box. The buttons were still not installed at this point.

Also, i chose dark saddle because i really like the color tone. My seats were originally Covert Gold and i decided to match my seats to my dash (which is dark saddle).

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 09:29 AM   #9
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Allan,
Here is a picture of my seat covers as they came out of the box. The buttons were still not installed at this point.
The grain and piping looks really good. Can't tell how pocket separations will be until it's installed. I know you're busy working on the front suspension, but I'll be really interested in how these turned out when you're done. Keep up the good work my friend.

Oh, BTW from time to time I found I needed to take a break from the suspension work. This will give you something to work on. Has it snowed down your way yet? We got it Saturday. Temps today are going to be a high of -3. Tommorrow it will be dropping to -10. I wish I had a heated shop like you have to work it. Cheers!
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Old November 14th, 2011, 09:46 AM   #10
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The grain and piping looks really good. Can't tell how pocket separations will be until it's installed. I know you're busy working on the front suspension, but I'll be really interested in how these turned out when you're done. Keep up the good work my friend.

Oh, BTW from time to time I found I needed to take a break from the suspension work. This will give you something to work on. Has it snowed down your way yet? We got it Saturday. Temps today are going to be a high of -3. Tommorrow it will be dropping to -10. I wish I had a heated shop like you have to work it. Cheers!
Hey Allan,

It snowed a very little bit last evening, but it's been pretty calm today. I think we shall be expecting snow this week.

After the first shock on the suspension, it seems to be going a little bit better. The passenger side shock i didnt even waste my time trying to unbolt it from the top. I just cut it straight out with my angle grinder. Paint is currently drying on the sway bar/bushing holders.

I shall take lots of pictures when i install the front seats. I'm really excited to see how they are going to turn out. The rear seats was good practice for me. I used high density foam so that they would have nice support when people are sitting back there.

What do you mean by pocket separations? Is this something i could remedy before it happens?
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Old November 14th, 2011, 10:43 AM   #11
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What do you mean by pocket separations? Is this something i could remedy before it happens?
If you look back at the pic of my rear seat you will see how the padded areas where the buttons are is way higher than the stitching that separates the next panel. I call those raised areas 'pockets'. No I don't think you can change that. It's done at the factory by added extra padding in those areas before they are stitched. Its hard to see the amount of pocket defined by the loose panel. No matter how it works out, you will have a really nice car.

Glad everything is going well. Do you have the control arms and springs out yet? I was really surprised at how much the front uppers were showing the corrosion. It's really thick metal though. My only worry for you was getting the bushings out. If they've corroded really bad and fused to the control arm, the circles and ovals that hold them might also be deformed when you take them out. You don't want to have oversized holes to put in new bushings or they won't seat properly. That's why I mentioned it in my first post - not a criticism - just an observation that might save you time and frustration in the long run. If it turns out they are more trouble than they're worth, check with Eric (jensenracing77) or Oldspackrat. They're closer to you (eastern USA) and could probably get you something much nicer and easier to work with without too much time delays. There's also a fellow in the GTA called "The cutlass guy - goes by madd442 on ebay) Take care; I have to go out and hang my Christmas lights before it dumps (we're expecting about 5-10 cm of snow by tommorrow. Today at least the ladder will still be on dry concrete) Cheers bud.
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Old November 14th, 2011, 10:43 AM
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