jdana24

I’m in the process of restoring my steering wheel which had a number of cracks including the area on each side that has the raised ribs. Has anyone who has restored a wheel found an “easy” way to shape the ribs after filling the crack? Since it is such a thin area between ribs I was planning on using jewelers files. Also, any thoughts on how to reshape some of the ribs that have been slightly flattened? I'm using PC-7 epoxy. See photo.

1969w3155

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/475.cfm

jdana24

Thanks...I had already seen this site, but it doesn't address the small raised ribs on the top of the wheel per my photo. Anyone else have any suggestions?

allyolds68

For someone really talented I would think you could hog out the big stuff with a Dremel, move to the files for detailed work, and then finish up with sand paper.

I did my 68 sport wheel that way (I'm not talented in any way, shape, or form) but it didn't have the ribs

Olds64

Duh, nevermind.

What Mike said.

Eddie Hansen

I have been thinking about this a little, have you thought of making a mold?, I think if you put a thin coat of wd40 on some good rib profiles, you could then make a mold out of bondo? once the bondo sets carefully cut with a razor and then it should pop right off let it harden and then apply your pc-7 and use the rib mold to squeeze over it, it sounds like more work then it is, I would also make some profile sanders it will be tedious work, when I restored my wheel for the 69 I carved the pc-7 with an exacto and other razors before it hardened completely, there is a company called micromark that sells all kind if little scribes, little sanders etc etc go to a good hobby store. The PC-7 does not hardened as hard as plastic so you will need an easy touch

distributorguy

You can sand down a piece of wood pretty quickly to match the shape of the finger grooves on the back of the wheel and wrap sandpaper around it. Trimming the epoxy while its setting is much easier than sanding it off when cured, as already mentioned.

jdana24

Thanks Mike, I used my Dremel, various files and grits of sandpaper to work the rest of the wheel and it turned out fine. AA and AAA batteries wrapped in sandpaper worked well, along with the new 3M Pro Grade Ultra Flexible Sanding Sheets. It is the little ribs on the front of the wheel at the 3:00 and 6:00 positions that I am looking to restore.

And Eddie, I've thought about making a mold as you described and that will be my next undertaking. Since PC-7 takes a while to cure, this will give me time to shape it properly. As you can see in the photo, I taped off the ribs on either side of the damaged ribs and filled it with PC-7, but I let it fully cure and shaping it is not easy.

Eddie Hansen

No Matter what it will be lots of work, I restored a factory imitation wood wheel, and I thought getting the little grip nubs were a pain, I think I had it easy now LOL.


in thinking they make an abrasive cord, (seriously) that may be just the thing for the wheel, it will flex around the diameter instead of trying to file flats round, it isn't very expensive as far as abrasives go, I used it a lot when I build my 1/8th scale hydroplanes, use two little pieces of dowel like a garrotte

Tedd Thompson

I've done a few wheels and had good luck with ether PC11 or PC7 but if you have fine cracks I found that a first coat of super glue will get down in the crack and help it from reappearing at a later date. As far as using WD40 as a release agent I would think it to be to thin and have too much solvent. The common product used in epoxy and fiberglass work is paste furniture wax( Johnson's or the like) and It is easily removed and will not react to the top coat that will eventually be used to finish the job.... Your mileage may differ.... Tedd

Eddie Hansen

very good tip on the wax Tedd!!

RetroRanger

i was thinking what eddie posted an abrasive cord. or i saw on amazon a set of needle files (very small files) or perhaps a jewelers saw...not sure if either of those are small enough.

Rocketowner

I have a Mini Hacksaw that came with a small round tungsten blade .I think it is used as a
Coping saw in tile work. It might be very handy for what you are doing. Larry

jdana24

Thanks for the input Eddie. I like the idea of using the abrasive cord. Would you suggest the silicon carbide or the aluminum oxide? And are you thinking I use this after the mold process? Or just try it on the current PC-7 that is on the wheel (see photo in first post)?

And Tedd, I used the 3M Semi-Rigid Plastic Repair 04240 since it comes out runny and dries hard after 50 seconds for the thin cracks and then covered them with blue tape until fully cured. For the furniture wax, are you suggesting a paste finishing wax?

And RetroRanger, I have a set of the needle files which I can use for some final small detail shaping.

Eddie Hansen

Hey Jeff Glad you like the idea it Kind of makes sense right?


as for your questions


Would you suggest the silicon carbide or the aluminum oxide?


I believe the major difference would be the grit size you want the coarser grits (lower number) would be the Aluminum Oxide, and the finer grits would in Silicone carbide, either will be fine for your application, there are differences on how they would work metals and such I would get a rougher grit(s) and a fine grit(s) for finishing


And are you thinking I use this after the mold process? Or just try it on the current PC-7 that is on the wheel
I am thinking if you are going to get the threads, to use it right on the pc7 without the mold, If I was doing this I would do the repair like this


1. Spread enough pc-7 to raise the ridges back to original, keeping track of where the ridges are ,
2. before it hardens trim the rough shape and get the diameter correct ( we are still minding where the ridges are right,)
3. then while still soft using a single edged razor ( because it wont flex sort of like a razor back saw because of the metal across the back)
4. cut a vee in each ridge position then let it harden completely
5. then go to work finalizing the shape with your abrasive threads and tapes (tapes will work well in conjunction with the cord because I believe those shapes are tapered and even if they aren't you will need to do the sides.
eventually you will be sanding with wet and dry up to 2000 grit ,




Hope this helps you my friend


eddie

jdana24

Thanks Eddie. I appreciate your assistance.

Eddie Hansen

Please post progress looking forward to seeing it perfect