Anybody replace the vinyl above windshield on 70-72 Cutlass?
May 1st, 2016, 05:40 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Harrison, Michigan
Posts: 4,723
Anybody replace the vinyl above windshield on 70-72 Cutlass?
I am in process of replacing interior on my 71 convertible and haven't seen any info on replacing the vinyl on top of the windshield frame. I have got the old vinyl off. My questions are what type of adhesive is best to use? Any other tips? Thanks in advance, Greg.
May 1st, 2016, 07:13 PM
#3
Gary
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Houston,Tx
Posts: 1,202
This is what I used on my headliner and also my vinyl top to glue them down. I will be using it also on my vinyl strip on my convertible when I get ready to put it on. I did buy a gallon of it but you probably can get a smaller size.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DAP-Weldwood...3D271191027327
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DAP-Weldwood...3D271191027327
May 1st, 2016, 07:21 PM
#4
Shaking out the cobwebs..
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Marysville, Michigan
Posts: 232
I used regular ol contact cement when I did mine.
One big tip, test fit it several times. I used painters tape to hold it on while I measured and adjusted the fit.
I also put it on and took it off several times in order to get the feel for how to do it smoothly when the cement was used.
I tried to mimic the originals creases and folds in order to be sure it fit well.
One big tip, test fit it several times. I used painters tape to hold it on while I measured and adjusted the fit.
I also put it on and took it off several times in order to get the feel for how to do it smoothly when the cement was used.
I tried to mimic the originals creases and folds in order to be sure it fit well.
May 1st, 2016, 09:31 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Modesto CA
Posts: 1,528
Not sure about the glue but 70post sells the vinyl piece to replace the original. I will be buying one soon.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ack-vinyl.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ack-vinyl.html
May 1st, 2016, 10:16 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Austin, Texas
Posts: 3,125
Suggestions:
>First the obvious---get the metal clean
>I don't recommend painting the metal with anything unless it's a high quality catalyzed epoxy or urethane paint (urethane over the correct primer). Any other type paint (ie spray cans, etc) will likely lift when you apply the glue. Fully cured POR15 (it's a urethane) would also probably stand up to the glue solvents as long as the POR has a good surface to bite into (ie sandblasted or sanded with a heavy grit paper and clean)
>You can use DAP brand brush-on contact cement that is available at Lowe's in a smaller pint can (easier on the $) or you can use a good spray adhesive like 3M Super Trim Adhesive, Permatex HD Carpet and Headliner Adhesive, etc. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE CAN....it's all there.
>PREFIT, PREFIT, etc - mark the center of the top of the w/shield frame and the center of your piece. Make sure whatever piece of vinyl you have is going to cover everything you want.....now....not while you're gluing it down (too late).
>Typically best to spray or brush one half of the vinyl/top frame first, lay down that half and then do the other half---two sets of hands help here alot although not mandatory.
>MASK OFF EVERYTHING! - especially if you're using spray adhesive. Just when you think your aim and can control is perfect...that is when you'll end up with some overspray on the paint, etc. Masking is cheap....screwing up other refinished surfaces nearby is not.
>First the obvious---get the metal clean
>I don't recommend painting the metal with anything unless it's a high quality catalyzed epoxy or urethane paint (urethane over the correct primer). Any other type paint (ie spray cans, etc) will likely lift when you apply the glue. Fully cured POR15 (it's a urethane) would also probably stand up to the glue solvents as long as the POR has a good surface to bite into (ie sandblasted or sanded with a heavy grit paper and clean)
>You can use DAP brand brush-on contact cement that is available at Lowe's in a smaller pint can (easier on the $) or you can use a good spray adhesive like 3M Super Trim Adhesive, Permatex HD Carpet and Headliner Adhesive, etc. FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE CAN....it's all there.
>PREFIT, PREFIT, etc - mark the center of the top of the w/shield frame and the center of your piece. Make sure whatever piece of vinyl you have is going to cover everything you want.....now....not while you're gluing it down (too late).
>Typically best to spray or brush one half of the vinyl/top frame first, lay down that half and then do the other half---two sets of hands help here alot although not mandatory.
>MASK OFF EVERYTHING! - especially if you're using spray adhesive. Just when you think your aim and can control is perfect...that is when you'll end up with some overspray on the paint, etc. Masking is cheap....screwing up other refinished surfaces nearby is not.
Last edited by 70Post; May 2nd, 2016 at 07:37 PM.
May 22nd, 2016, 04:44 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Harrison, Michigan
Posts: 4,723
I plan to start installing the vinyl strip I got from Legendary this week. I wonder if a heat gun would also help. The old strip came off easy. I noticed a factory weld is sharp and that was a spot where the vinyl was worn thru. I plan to smooth out that spot. I bought some 3M spray can adhesive. Thanks again for your help.
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