69 H/O intake

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Old September 26th, 2013, 06:20 PM
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69 H/O intake

The REAL DEAL!!!!

6,500 FIRM
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Old September 30th, 2013, 09:02 PM
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will you trade for a 454 chevy edelbrock performer intake manifold? lol
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Old October 1st, 2013, 05:19 AM
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Originally Posted by rr69ho
The REAL DEAL!!!!

6,500 FIRM
sounds like a deal to me since the last one i saw for sale the guy was asking 8500! (sure glad im not looking for one!! LOL)

BTW --- Just what is the difference about it ? Is the casting number different? Is that the only diff? Usually there are other differences to warrant a different casting number? I've never had one to look at to actually compare?
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Old October 1st, 2013, 05:49 AM
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casting # and they have another pcv port
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Old October 31st, 2014, 07:38 PM
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is the intake manifold still available?
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Old November 1st, 2014, 04:03 AM
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Sorry, it's long gone.
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Old November 1st, 2014, 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by rr69ho
Sorry, it's long gone.
Thus rr's spending spree lately...
:-)

"BTW --- Just what is the difference about it ? Is the casting number different? Is that the only diff? Usually there are other differences to warrant a different casting number? I've never had one to look at to actually compare?"
=====================
Casting number is different though they used the same main ID _LETTER_ "J"

Common:
J on passenger side in depression aft of thermostat.
398662 Casting # aft of carb
Cavity for divorced choke coil

Rare '69 H/O only:
J is on LH side, not passenger side.
Casting # aft of carb is 405233
On RH side is a boss that goes from water passage to #2 intake runner, drilled thru to cankcase and fitted with a 1/2" nipple for the PCV valve rubber elbow Gr. 3.410?, PN 405144.
Same choke coil cavity

Both have two threaded ports for water temp sensors.

Here are some photos of my REPLICA rare intake showing APPROXIMATELY what the real ones look like:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150772154268...84.m1555.l2649

Note the common cracks areas. Note that on a real one the PCV boss is tied to both nearby walls- I was afraid that the boss would crack away from one or both walls due to thermal expansion, so I tie only to the intake runner wall. Note that the replica boss must be secured mechanically to the intake, thus the nut and threaded tube underside. Real ones would just have a hole thru solid cast iron for the PCV. I also leave a marking underside on the replicas to ward off truth decay in the future.

Last edited by Octania; November 1st, 2014 at 06:51 AM.
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Old November 1st, 2014, 07:06 AM
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This was the one that was just on ebay that was in my possession up until last Nov.

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