68 H/O Gauges - need advice
March 2nd, 2016, 08:04 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 26
68 H/O Gauges - need advice
I've been away for far too long, and since we're in an even year the 68 H/O will be back in use this spring.
My car was not equipped with the tic-toc-tach and gauges from the factory - it had idiot lights. When I bought it a rather inaccurate tic-toc-tach was installed. The needle on that has since fallen off.
The car is not restored and I need some advice. Should I:
1) Have the tic-toc-tach restored and install the factory gauge package (repro) or
2) Go with period correct pieces - Stewart Warner under-dash gauges and a vintage Sun Super Tach on the column?
I have an NOS "clock cover" and am leaning towards the aftermarket stuff. There are holes drilled in the underside of the lower dash so something was mounted there at one time.
My H/O is very low option and while I might add a couple of handy things (trunk release, factory AM/FM) I'm not going for a full-on resto, make-it-the-way-I would-have ordered setup.
My car was not equipped with the tic-toc-tach and gauges from the factory - it had idiot lights. When I bought it a rather inaccurate tic-toc-tach was installed. The needle on that has since fallen off.
The car is not restored and I need some advice. Should I:
1) Have the tic-toc-tach restored and install the factory gauge package (repro) or
2) Go with period correct pieces - Stewart Warner under-dash gauges and a vintage Sun Super Tach on the column?
I have an NOS "clock cover" and am leaning towards the aftermarket stuff. There are holes drilled in the underside of the lower dash so something was mounted there at one time.
My H/O is very low option and while I might add a couple of handy things (trunk release, factory AM/FM) I'm not going for a full-on resto, make-it-the-way-I would-have ordered setup.
March 2nd, 2016, 08:58 AM
#2
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,297
It's your car, your money, and your call.
March 2nd, 2016, 11:27 AM
#4
68 H/O's without gauges are relatively rare so I'd go back to just lights period. If you pay attention to the lights, you should avoid any calamitous engine damage, and I'm sure you would be paying attention.
March 2nd, 2016, 12:04 PM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,394
Hey Joe! Glad to hear the car is coming back out (met you at MCACN two years ago and took a bunch of pictures to help with mine).
I thought about trying to use an original Stewart-Warner Green Line tach (since the factory tach isn't the easiest thing to read while racing), and I found that the mounting cup hit the dash pad unless the tach was mounted directly in front of the speedometer (to fit in the recessed hole) or was clocked fairly low to the side.
If you are considering an aftermarket tach, make sure it fits before your final decision... some of the Sun super tachs may be a bit shallower, but I don't have one to measure.
I've actually thought about putting some green line mechanical gauges under the dash on mine even with the factory gauge pack, just don't trust them when racing. It's kind of tacky, but I'll take that over another machine shop bill...
I thought about trying to use an original Stewart-Warner Green Line tach (since the factory tach isn't the easiest thing to read while racing), and I found that the mounting cup hit the dash pad unless the tach was mounted directly in front of the speedometer (to fit in the recessed hole) or was clocked fairly low to the side.
If you are considering an aftermarket tach, make sure it fits before your final decision... some of the Sun super tachs may be a bit shallower, but I don't have one to measure.
I've actually thought about putting some green line mechanical gauges under the dash on mine even with the factory gauge pack, just don't trust them when racing. It's kind of tacky, but I'll take that over another machine shop bill...
March 2nd, 2016, 12:32 PM
#7
Randy C.
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 3,245
Just personally...
I'd add the factory options that you can find/use for anything that you don't have to cut into the metal. For instance, switching from a factory AM radio to factory AM-FM would be viable. I'd also repair your original tic-toc-tac as well as try to find an original gauge pod. But I wouldn't add the remote trunk opener...gotta cut a hole in the glove box for the trunk release switch.
My '68 4-4-2 convertible was a low-option car as well. About the only interesting things on it were the remote driver side mirror and the tilt column. I added the factory gauges and clock/tac, a factory AM-FM mono radio with a rear speaker (the stereo radios of that era didn't have that great of reception, in my opinion). My car originally came with white stripe tires and wire wheel covers but I substituted red stripe tires with SSI wheels. Basically, anything that I could unbolt or unscrew and replace with an upgrade option, I did, but saved the original parts such that I could return it to window sticker originality if need be.
Just my two cents worth.
Randy C.
I'd add the factory options that you can find/use for anything that you don't have to cut into the metal. For instance, switching from a factory AM radio to factory AM-FM would be viable. I'd also repair your original tic-toc-tac as well as try to find an original gauge pod. But I wouldn't add the remote trunk opener...gotta cut a hole in the glove box for the trunk release switch.
My '68 4-4-2 convertible was a low-option car as well. About the only interesting things on it were the remote driver side mirror and the tilt column. I added the factory gauges and clock/tac, a factory AM-FM mono radio with a rear speaker (the stereo radios of that era didn't have that great of reception, in my opinion). My car originally came with white stripe tires and wire wheel covers but I substituted red stripe tires with SSI wheels. Basically, anything that I could unbolt or unscrew and replace with an upgrade option, I did, but saved the original parts such that I could return it to window sticker originality if need be.
Just my two cents worth.
Randy C.
March 2nd, 2016, 01:15 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Southeast Michigan
Posts: 1,224
Just personally...
I'd add the factory options that you can find/use for anything that you don't have to cut into the metal. For instance, switching from a factory AM radio to factory AM-FM would be viable. I'd also repair your original tic-toc-tac as well as try to find an original gauge pod. But I wouldn't add the remote trunk opener...gotta cut a hole in the glove box for the trunk release switch.
Randy C.
I'd add the factory options that you can find/use for anything that you don't have to cut into the metal. For instance, switching from a factory AM radio to factory AM-FM would be viable. I'd also repair your original tic-toc-tac as well as try to find an original gauge pod. But I wouldn't add the remote trunk opener...gotta cut a hole in the glove box for the trunk release switch.
Randy C.
March 2nd, 2016, 01:48 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaunty75
?
Registration vs smog rules thing perhaps?
OOPS - O.K. - to explain my fleet usage:
I also have a 69 428 HO 4spd GP. I drive the 69 in odd-numbered years.
The 68 I drive in even-numbered years. I don't keep the cars garaged at my house in the winter. I only have room to garage one of the cars in the summer at home - the other stays about 40 miles away.
It's taken a few years to work out this schedule!
I think my glove box also has the hole punched for the trunk release switch. Someone added a glove box lamp - could be a factory error, as I don't have the trunk or underhood lamps nor the visor mirror.
The trunk release is just so darn handy - although it's easy enough to pull the key out of the ignition and let the car run!
You can bet I watch the idiot lights! I only had the HOT lamp come on once - I was coming home from an Olds only show in the far south suburbs of Chicago (I live up north) and made the mistake of trying to keep up with a BMW on I294. Can't really run at 90 MPH with 3.91s and temps in the mid-90s! I was able to get the temp down quickly once I slowed down. Otherwise, in traffic the engine stays cool. I don't - I'm grateful for vent windows!
I thank all for the responses. This car was the 4th of 4 that Towns Edge in Hopkins, MN sold. They really went cheap on it - manual steering, no rally steering wheel (has one now), even a rumor that it had PA1 wheel covers and not SSIIs. I think the dealer went belly up sometime in late 1968. I do go to the Purestock drags with this car and accurate gauges are something I really should have.
Originally Posted by jaunty75
?
Registration vs smog rules thing perhaps?
OOPS - O.K. - to explain my fleet usage:
I also have a 69 428 HO 4spd GP. I drive the 69 in odd-numbered years.
The 68 I drive in even-numbered years. I don't keep the cars garaged at my house in the winter. I only have room to garage one of the cars in the summer at home - the other stays about 40 miles away.
It's taken a few years to work out this schedule!
I think my glove box also has the hole punched for the trunk release switch. Someone added a glove box lamp - could be a factory error, as I don't have the trunk or underhood lamps nor the visor mirror.
The trunk release is just so darn handy - although it's easy enough to pull the key out of the ignition and let the car run!
You can bet I watch the idiot lights! I only had the HOT lamp come on once - I was coming home from an Olds only show in the far south suburbs of Chicago (I live up north) and made the mistake of trying to keep up with a BMW on I294. Can't really run at 90 MPH with 3.91s and temps in the mid-90s! I was able to get the temp down quickly once I slowed down. Otherwise, in traffic the engine stays cool. I don't - I'm grateful for vent windows!
I thank all for the responses. This car was the 4th of 4 that Towns Edge in Hopkins, MN sold. They really went cheap on it - manual steering, no rally steering wheel (has one now), even a rumor that it had PA1 wheel covers and not SSIIs. I think the dealer went belly up sometime in late 1968. I do go to the Purestock drags with this car and accurate gauges are something I really should have.
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