Luch

Hi all, new here. My first post but been reading along and learning the last few months. Picked up a 64 Olds Ninety Eight - absolutely a fun car, I am into the full size tanks and stumbled across this thing, could not pass it up. Been fixing a bunch of little thing and everything is coming along nice.

I am asking for some input on a stuck distributor. Never had anything like this on a vehicle I have worked on before. Did some searching around and did not find much. I want to remove the distributor to go through and 'easily' replace points, advance(s), and just check things out. Well, it doesn't come out! I had a massive pry bar underneath it and while practically hanging on it this thing doesn't budge. No adjustment is possible, I cannot even adjust base timing if I wanted!

Anyone ever see or work on a problem like this!

Thanks!

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Sugar Bear

Yes, encountered this on a 70' Cadillac. Was able to work it free by letting applications of gum cutter sit at the base of the distributor where it goes into the block and using large pliers to apply rotational force. The problem was sludge holding it in place.

Be careful prying upward, probably not too effective and likely to break the housing.

If the base timing is close you can adjust it by moving the dwell a little off specification but dwell accuracy is sacrificed.

Good luck and please post the solution.

Luch

Sugar Bear, thanks for the reply. This is the craziest thing, never encountered this issue before. Appreciate the response, I will try the wrench or pliers thing today as well as timing trick...
I did a quick search on the Gum Cutter, that's a new one to me as well. I have some rust penetrate I considered using but didn't want anything seeping into the engine.

Your analysis about the sludge makes sense as I just pulled both valve covers to replace gaskets and sure enough, she had some sludge inside.

Car runs perfect and drives terrific. Aside from some spots or rust/issues, I have a really fun car. Issues like the distributor slow down my progress as I wanted to do a complete tune up right away...but it's an old car and it's always something!

Chris

Octania

You can run the engine and get it warm right? That should help.

I would use the voodoo juice- 50/50 ATF and Acetone
Apply to the base of distributor
tap dist'r with hammer to help vibrate it
twist dist'r body [cast iron or AL dist'r?] gently
if it's not loose yet then come back tomorrow and repeat. Give the juice time to work down in there. May take several days.

joe_padavano

Sadly, this is not uncommon. The aluminum distributor housing and the cast iron block form a mild battery, which can cause galvanic corrosion between the two. As noted, soaking with penetrating oil is your best option.

Run to Rund

Mopar rust penetrant may help. Another issue can occur when the oil pump drive sticks in the gear, but if that is the problem, you can turn the distributor housing, just not pull it very far out.

Luch

Thanks everyone to your replies. Well, was screwing around with it for awhile this morning and nothing. I could not get a wrench or grips on it...I mean, there is no way to really get a good grip with area to swing the wrench around. It looks like there is more room back there then there is for this type of job. I soaked some penetrate at the base, will hit it again tomorrow. The efforts are just ill with effort involved so far.

I can't start the engine just yet, finishing up the heater core replacement but them I will be able to heat things up for sure. That core was another blast of a project! Keeping in mind of current automotive setups, I guess this was all a breeze!

Appreciate the help!
Chris

Octania

Is the 394 a cast iron distributor housing or AL?

Penetrant, heat, tapping and TIME will get it loose.

Do not underestimate the penetrating value of ACETONE mixed with ATF.

Luch

I believe this to be the aluminum housing...it looks similar to the style on my Buick 455 and previous Cadi 472.
I will get some Acetone tomorrow and go with the potion. I have nothing to loose!

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Octania

feel/ look for a square section of the casting on which a wrench can be applied.
\
if the wrench is too long to swing to where you need it, get a spare and modify it to suit. Tap with hammer in order to rotate housing back and forth. Penetrant, time, heat.

Luch

Was at it today again...and I got the distributor out! Took lot's of opinions here and sort of conjured up some of my own. Was thinking about options last night at work and today got out my propane torch and some penetrate spray. I heated up the rear of the block behind distributor, and then the two sides by cylinder banks. Got it probably as hot as that silly torch would go and then shot some of the penetrate at the distributor base. Sat for a few minutes and started removing some linkage to the carburetor and Roto kick-down. I managed to...gulp, lock vise grips onto the base of the distributor stem and tapped that with a hammer. Don't think I got to far with the hammer so I grabbed on to the grips and started the muscles. All of a sudden, got about a quarter inch of movement...then she started to spin...got the damn thing!
Already got everything cleaned up, parts replaced, and ready for install this coming week.
Thanks for all your replies and help, you guys are a help. This older GM stuff really is lot's of fun and I am sure I will have more questions to search for around here.

Chris

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svnt442

That oil almost looks like water got in there at some point.