396021F id
#1
396021F id
Hi, I know this has been covered a thousand times, but I can't seem to find answers when I do a search. sorry!
I would like to know exactly what year my 396021F block is and maybe what car it came in. I know there is stamping of the original vehicle's VIN somewere on the block, right?
How do I learn the year and application of the engine otherwise?
I would like to know exactly what year my 396021F block is and maybe what car it came in. I know there is stamping of the original vehicle's VIN somewere on the block, right?
How do I learn the year and application of the engine otherwise?
#2
The year is in the stamping just below the head. Second digit.
You might not ever know the exact car it came from. We can allways guess depending on letters.
Depending on build plant...An X might mean a big car. B and C bodys like the 88 and 98. An M might mean an A body..The experts can divulge that info later. I'm not an expert.
There is a casting date code at the distributor area. Tell us what that is.
Take a pic or write down the numbers you see.
You might not ever know the exact car it came from. We can allways guess depending on letters.
Depending on build plant...An X might mean a big car. B and C bodys like the 88 and 98. An M might mean an A body..The experts can divulge that info later. I'm not an expert.
There is a casting date code at the distributor area. Tell us what that is.
Take a pic or write down the numbers you see.
#3
stamping location
I don't have a picture handy at the moment, but there should be a small flat panel about 1.5"x2.5" just under the number 1 cylinder spark plug, at the front left of the block. There will be a number on it that is a derivative of the VIN. It should look something like "38M123456." The 3 represents Olds, the 8 represents the year (1968), the M is the build factory, M is Lansing MI. The 123456 represents the last six digits of the VIN.
Hope this is helpful.
Hope this is helpful.
#4
Seems like I heard years ago that the "F" blocks were 1968 thru 1970
and the "Fa" blocks were 1971 and newer.
The older blocks supposedly had a higher nickel content.
Anyone know if there's any accuracy to this?
and the "Fa" blocks were 1971 and newer.
The older blocks supposedly had a higher nickel content.
Anyone know if there's any accuracy to this?
#5
In certain years at least, the Toronado Serial Numbers started higher and so if your VIN stamp is for example 30M625101 it would have to be a 1970 Toronado, because lesser models did not extend into VIN's that high...
Lower VIN sequential, much harder to tell. Block drain drilling can often tell A-body from BC line but that's about it unless you have the original car on hand.
btw, why does it matter?
Lower VIN sequential, much harder to tell. Block drain drilling can often tell A-body from BC line but that's about it unless you have the original car on hand.
btw, why does it matter?
#6
F blocks were used in some applications through at least 1974. Fa blocks from 1972-up. Yes, they did overlap.
#7
Oh just asking out of pure curiosity.
Don't care if it is from '68 or '74 :-)
Is there any chance it is a 45 degree block or were they made before 392160 blocks?
The crank has the large N on it.
It says 107 by the distributor...
I will look for the areas under the nr 1 cylinder and block drain holes first thing Monday ( engine is at the shop were I work )
Thanks a lot everybody :-)
Don't care if it is from '68 or '74 :-)
Is there any chance it is a 45 degree block or were they made before 392160 blocks?
The crank has the large N on it.
It says 107 by the distributor...
I will look for the areas under the nr 1 cylinder and block drain holes first thing Monday ( engine is at the shop were I work )
Thanks a lot everybody :-)
Last edited by Marx3; April 24th, 2015 at 10:51 PM.
#10
1970 block, but where is it built? E or possibly F ?
It says F1 on the rear of the block.
C0043E31-54FC-4398-A339-E50FF6074068_zpsgjfxvw8h.jpg
I guess it must have come out of a full size car?
F0B630B8-0F2F-4EDC-A657-506835266455_zpsbuntum4x.jpg
It says F1 on the rear of the block.
C0043E31-54FC-4398-A339-E50FF6074068_zpsgjfxvw8h.jpg
I guess it must have come out of a full size car?
F0B630B8-0F2F-4EDC-A657-506835266455_zpsbuntum4x.jpg
#11
An "E" would be Linden, NJ. An "F" would be Fairfax, KS. The Fairfax plant only built full size cars. Linden did build A-bodies, and later Toros, but I'm not sure about the 1970 model year.
Edit: Linden DID build A-body cars in the 1970 model year.
Edit: Linden DID build A-body cars in the 1970 model year.
#13
The "0" definitely means 1970 - what else could it mean? The block castings are all the same, so I don't know what you mean by the "drain hole location". All 455s have a drain plug there. The fact that the block has been repainted the incorrect blue tells me it's been messed with by a previous owner anyway.
#14
I think I see the fwd LH motor mtg hole not drilled/ tapped.
that is weird
Motor mt was in the aft location indicating A-body.... I think. 1970 Big Car experts please chime in. I have seen the other block drain boss drilled and tapped and the one seen here, between the aft pair of motor mt holes, left untouched, I think. Maybe.
I see only one block drain possible boss on this one.
The F1 means pretty much nothing.
That drill spot next to the VIN stamp meant something to someone, someday. Today, it is a mystery.
that is weird
Motor mt was in the aft location indicating A-body.... I think. 1970 Big Car experts please chime in. I have seen the other block drain boss drilled and tapped and the one seen here, between the aft pair of motor mt holes, left untouched, I think. Maybe.
I see only one block drain possible boss on this one.
The F1 means pretty much nothing.
That drill spot next to the VIN stamp meant something to someone, someday. Today, it is a mystery.
#15
I read somewere that the drain hole was located different places depending on wether the engine came from a small body or a big body car.
The thing about the drain hole was mentioned earlier in this thread?
About the year, you wrote
:-) I guess I misunderstood.
You guys want more pictures? this is getting interesting :-)
The thing about the drain hole was mentioned earlier in this thread?
About the year, you wrote
I'm not sure about the 1970 model year.
You guys want more pictures? this is getting interesting :-)
#17
F0B630B8-0F2F-4EDC-A657-506835266455_zpsbuntum4x.jpg
#18
I'll also point out that while this photo makes it look like the two rear mount holes were used, that's potentially only been since the block was repainted corporate blue, so we can't infer a factory application from that. I read the VIN derivative as an "F", which would indicate a full size application, but that reading is open to debate. To the OP, try doing a pencil rubbing of the VIN derivative. Sometimes that will pick up nuances in the stamping that the eye can't see.
#20
Here are some more pictures.
The engine was installed in a Chevy pick-up truck, so the position of the engine mounts is possibly to fit the chevy frame.
The derivate positively says E, not F
832BA4A1-F93C-433A-A022-021472F38B27_zpsf1g6vjmt.jpg
D7B1A712-B168-4E44-B135-EC44112B95EA_zpsu4v1wufr.jpg
E997DEBD-C323-4F10-852C-A9875ECE0895_zpssbzftuqm.jpg
The engine was installed in a Chevy pick-up truck, so the position of the engine mounts is possibly to fit the chevy frame.
The derivate positively says E, not F
832BA4A1-F93C-433A-A022-021472F38B27_zpsf1g6vjmt.jpg
D7B1A712-B168-4E44-B135-EC44112B95EA_zpsu4v1wufr.jpg
E997DEBD-C323-4F10-852C-A9875ECE0895_zpssbzftuqm.jpg
#21
Agreed the VIN letter is "E", clearly here.
btw, NICE PHOTOS - what did you get that with?
Now I see the motor mount thing, sure, I just never noticed that other pair of flat bosses down low
OP, your starter bolts [at least one] is/are bent. Get rid of them- starter position is pretty critical.
On the RH side we see the two block drains, and the motor mt is in the fwd pair of holes from its life in C-land.
Toothed washer is supposed to be UNDER the cable end, not between bolt head and cable.
btw, NICE PHOTOS - what did you get that with?
Now I see the motor mount thing, sure, I just never noticed that other pair of flat bosses down low
OP, your starter bolts [at least one] is/are bent. Get rid of them- starter position is pretty critical.
On the RH side we see the two block drains, and the motor mt is in the fwd pair of holes from its life in C-land.
Toothed washer is supposed to be UNDER the cable end, not between bolt head and cable.
#23
Toothed washer, say what?
===================
Next to the VIN stamp
secures the ground cable to the engine
I see a bolt head, toothed [external star] washer, then the end of the cable [broke off] then the block
For cutting thru the paint and transferring electrons directly from cable to block, it is best to have, and the factory specifies and uses, the star washer between the cable end and the block. The bolt head sits right on the cable end.
===================
Next to the VIN stamp
secures the ground cable to the engine
I see a bolt head, toothed [external star] washer, then the end of the cable [broke off] then the block
For cutting thru the paint and transferring electrons directly from cable to block, it is best to have, and the factory specifies and uses, the star washer between the cable end and the block. The bolt head sits right on the cable end.
#25
Toothed washer, say what?
===================
Next to the VIN stamp
secures the ground cable to the engine
I see a bolt head, toothed [external star] washer, then the end of the cable [broke off] then the block
For cutting thru the paint and transferring electrons directly from cable to block, it is best to have, and the factory specifies and uses, the star washer between the cable end and the block. The bolt head sits right on the cable end.
===================
Next to the VIN stamp
secures the ground cable to the engine
I see a bolt head, toothed [external star] washer, then the end of the cable [broke off] then the block
For cutting thru the paint and transferring electrons directly from cable to block, it is best to have, and the factory specifies and uses, the star washer between the cable end and the block. The bolt head sits right on the cable end.
I will take care not to mess with the dipstick tube.
btw the pictures were taken with an iPhone 5S. I used the editing feature on the phone to just crop the pictures a bit. This tends to "zoom in" a bit plus you guys cant see all the crap in my shop, surrounding the engine :-)
#26
That's funny, I was going to suggest he remove that chrome pc of Taiwaneces and get a real one. Easy extract right now. Looks like that engine rolled around the BACK of a truck for a while.
#27
... ´94 Suburban actually. Just remembered :-) I hit a speed bumb to hard when I drove the engine home. That bump came out of nowhere!
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