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The dual exhaust on my Delta 88 is falling apart and there's no use in trying to fix it anymore an owner that had it before me put it on himself and didn't do a very good job. Usage basically ruined it and the only way I can get another dual exhaust system to fit in there is if I get it custom built. I just want the car to run how it should nothing fancy or crazy performance wise, just was wondering how much that might run me for the custom build since I'm on a budget with a simple dual exhaust system
Also, about the carburetor my car has the original Roschestor 2 bbl and I was thinking of upgrading and a guy I know told me a 4 bbl edelbrock 650 cfm would be great for my 455 with a newly done exhaust system any advice??
What an exhaust cost here in Texas compared to Cali may be apples to Oranges, My complete 2.5 inch exhaust from header collectors to tail pipes cost me around $450 about 3 years ago. If your changing to a 4V carb you'll also have to change the intake manifold.
What an exhaust cost here in Texas compared to Cali may be apples to Oranges, My complete 2.5 inch exhaust from header collectors to tail pipes cost me around $450 about 3 years ago. If your changing to a 4V carb you'll also have to change the intake manifold.
Okay thank you I want to keep the car I hope I can get somewhat close to that
price that would be ideal so getting the carb and intake put on there won't be too long after thank you very much👍
Not understanding why a new, stock exhaust system would not work. Did they cut off the hanger brackets, or weld up the holes in the chassis? If not, a stock replacement will bolt right up.
Not understanding why a new, stock exhaust system would not work.
In prior threads, the OP described how this car has a custom dual exhaust plumbed using the incorrect center dump single exhaust manifold on the driver side. The pipe from that side runs under the oil pan (like the crossover would have) and then down the PASSENGER side of the engine. He would need to get the correct driver side dual exhaust manifold (as sold by Thornton and others) to use a stock dual exhaust system. In any case, that option will run $300 for the repro manifold and $600-$800 for the repro exhaust system.
I suggest you take your car to a local exhaust shop. I had duals put on my 71 98 years ago for about $350. Of course, I bought the glass packs separately and they were about $100. So, I ended up spending about as much as Eric did. Hopefully it won't be too expensive in CA.
I suggest you take your car to a local exhaust shop. I had duals put on my 71 98 years ago for about $350. Of course, I bought the glass packs separately and they were about $100. So, I ended up spending about as much as Eric did. Hopefully it won't be too expensive in CA.
Of course, the two problems with that statement are:
1) "years ago" (I only paid $2500 for my 1969 H/O "years ago") and
2) the fact that you are talking about a 1971, which is COMPLETELY DIFFERENT from (and much easier than) the rear-steer 1965-70 cars as far as dual exhaust routing is concerned.
2) the fact that you are talking about a 1971, which is COMPLETELY DIFFERENT from (and much easier than) the rear-steer 1965-70 cars as far as dual exhaust routing is concerned.
Not to hijack but I've never heard that before. They had rear steering? I had a '70 Delta for about two weeks in 1985 while I was waiting to pull the engine for my 442.
but I've never heard that before. They had rear steering? I had a '70 Delta for about two weeks in 1985 while I was waiting to pull the engine for my 442.
"Front steer" and "rear steer" refers to the location of the steering linkage and steering box in relation to the crossmember under the engine. On the 1965-70 full size cars, the linkage is behind the crossmember (rear steer). This puts the steering box DIRECTLY in the way of the LH exhaust pipe on dual exhaust cars. Factory dual cars used a unique LH manifold to route around the steering.
"Front steer" and "rear steer" refers to the location of the steering linkage and steering box in relation to the crossmember under the engine. On the 1965-70 full size cars, the linkage is behind the crossmember (rear steer). This puts the steering box DIRECTLY in the way of the LH exhaust pipe on dual exhaust cars. Factory dual cars used a unique LH manifold to route around the steering.
In prior threads, the OP described how this car has a custom dual exhaust plumbed using the incorrect center dump single exhaust manifold on the driver side. The pipe from that side runs under the oil pan (like the crossover would have) and then down the PASSENGER side of the engine. He would need to get the correct driver side dual exhaust manifold (as sold by Thornton and others) to use a stock dual exhaust system. In any case, that option will run $300 for the repro manifold and $600-$800 for the repro exhaust system.
Ahh, that's what I didn't know. Well, he needs to buy a new system anyway, so the 6-800 is spent, no matter what. If the new, correct, manifold was a lot of money, I'd say hang a new system on, and have an exhaust shop just make an adapter piece to go to the incorrect manifold. But if you have to pay for it, it might be about the price of the new manifold.
I did this (myself) with my 55 Olds. It had PS, and it seems you couldn't get PS with duals, or at least with the single exhaust manifolds. I just bought a dual system, and made my own pipe on the "wrong" side, with some mandrel bends, carefully snaking it past the huge steering box. Only took a couple hours with my welder.
I did this (myself) with my 55 Olds. It had PS, and it seems you couldn't get PS with duals, or at least with the single exhaust manifolds. I just bought a dual system, and made my own pipe on the "wrong" side, with some mandrel bends, carefully snaking it past the huge steering box. Only took a couple hours with my welder.
Unfortunately, the 65-70 full size cars aren't amenable to that option. The 67 D88 that I recently purchased had EXACTLY such a half-fast dual exhaust pipe routed to the center-dump single exhaust manifold. Between the steering box, linkage, and starter, only a 2" pipe would fit, and even then it was crushed to half the original area to fit around the starter. Note in this photo that the center link has been removed. That is what constrains the pipe from moving forward from the starter.
Of course, the two problems with that statement are:
1) "years ago" (I only paid $2500 for my 1969 H/O "years ago") and
2) the fact that you are talking about a 1971, which is COMPLETELY DIFFERENT from (and much easier than) the rear-steer 1965-70 cars as far as dual exhaust routing is concerned.
Roll your eyes all you want, but the fact remains that there is no correlation between the difficulty of custom-bending a dual exhaust on a 71-up full size and on a 65-70 without the correct LH manifold. If you haven't done one of these, you have no idea. And while we all like to remember prices from back in the day, they don't apply today.
As a matter of fact I have had experience with dual exhaust on the 65-70 B/C bodies. As I've mentioned before on our site, Oldsguy and I modified an exhaust manifold from a Toronado for his 69 Delta 88.
Not understanding why a new, stock exhaust system would not work. Did they cut off the hanger brackets, or weld up the holes in the chassis? If not, a stock replacement will bolt right up.
Yeah the brackets have all broken off, both pipes have a lot of rust, and I need new gaskets because of an exhaust leak. A mechanic I took the car to to get the timing adjusted took a look at it and said it was bound to end up that way because of the way it was put together and repairing the system I have now would be useless
Interesting that Classic exhaust has duals for 60, 61 and 63 88s, but not 62?
Though he tends to be busy in the shop actually bending pipe, you could give Scott a call and ask him - could be he just doesn't have the card for '62, and didn't want to make any ASSumptions.
Unfortunately, the 65-70 full size cars aren't amenable to that option. The 67 D88 that I recently purchased had EXACTLY such a half-fast dual exhaust pipe routed to the center-dump single exhaust manifold. Between the steering box, linkage, and starter, only a 2" pipe would fit, and even then it was crushed to half the original area to fit around the starter. Note in this photo that the center link has been removed. That is what constrains the pipe from moving forward from the starter.
This is why I got a correct LH manifold.
Holy crap, what does that pipe neck down to, a 1/4"?😂
Looks like there is more than enough room to make a zig-zag around that steering. I build custom cars, and have to do things like this all the time. I realize it's not "restoration" correct, but you can make things work with a bit of effort, and imagination.
Looks like there is more than enough room to make a zig-zag around that steering.
There is not. As I said, the center link is RIGHT against the front of that pipe - it's just not installed in this photo. You can't go in front of the center link because then you hit the crossmember. I also fabricate my own exhaust from mandrel bends. Trust me when I tell you there isn't room to do it without insane flattening of the pipes.
I dont understand why someone would go through a Stooges type piping job when the correct manifold and repro exhaust system is available. I have had great success with Classic Exhaust pipes and the price is reasonable as well. Sometimes you just have to step and and get what works.... I have seen attempts of using the stock single exhaust manifold for duals and it aint pretty.
I dont understand why someone would go through a Stooges type piping job when the correct manifold and repro exhaust system is available. I have had great success with Classic Exhaust pipes and the price is reasonable as well. Sometimes you just have to step and and get what works.... I have seen attempts of using the stock single exhaust manifold for duals and it aint pretty.
The need for and availability of that dual exhaust manifold is still not well known outside the die-hard Oldsmobile community, and even within the community, many are not familiar with the idiosyncrasies of the 65-70 full size cars.
Whole new exhaust system cost 850.00 it was one of the only two places nearby that could apparently do it and the other place was $200 more so I just went with the cheaper guy
Not bad, considering the parts would be something like $600, plus another $200 for the manifold.
Did he use a Thornton manifold?
- Eric
I don't think I'm getting a new manifold😬 I think the problem was just with the pipes, brackets, and gaskets and I hope that's true ill ask the guy when I get the chance his shop is closed right now
There is not. As I said, the center link is RIGHT against the front of that pipe - it's just not installed in this photo. You can't go in front of the center link because then you hit the crossmember. I also fabricate my own exhaust from mandrel bends. Trust me when I tell you there isn't room to do it without insane flattening of the pipes.
Now I can't be so sure ther isn't anuff room since you can get some insane Flattening of the pipes to work here Joe. I'm confused !! No wellll hmmm mayyybeeee EH.
Now I can't be so sure ther isn't anuff room since you can get some insane Flattening of the pipes to work here Joe. I'm confused !! No wellll hmmm mayyybeeee EH.
Then feel free to come out to my shop and look at the car in question. You will quickly become "sure".
2nd to last picture is passenger side pipe and last picture is driver side pipe going under the car and up into the manifold, the driver side pipe was tricky and they had to order an extra tool to make the bend so it wouldn't kink and then get hot while driving it so they had to make both of them go to the passenger side and then they seperate
mufflers are flowmaster
Nice job no flattening, who did the work? Is that 2 1/4 pipe?
Eric
Thanks, a guy that does exhaust work in his garage for a family owned auto repair shop about 10 miles from where I live did it and I don't know what the size is but they seem kind of small to me
sounds great though and I'm glad that it's done
Look on local Craigslist for a factory cast iron 4bbl intake manifold. You should also be able to find an appropriate Rochester 4bbl. Don't worry if its not the exact right year. Just make sure the choke is the same type as the intake. Have it rebuilt to stand up to ethanol gas. Frankly it would be a good time to install a new cam, lifters and timing chain. The 4bbl won't do much without a better cam.
December 9th, 2016, 05:51 PM
Note in this photo that the center link has been removed. That is what constrains the pipe from moving forward from the starter.
