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well I purchased two as well, Although my Car is a manual, I guess there should be no issues,
The factory radiator in my manual trans W-30 had plugs in the trans cooler fittings.
As my car didn't have a factory 4 core, I will need to get new saddles and a new top plate? and what about the shroud? is it different? And pardon the stupid question is there a repo shroud?
Yes, new top and bottom saddles and insulators, all available repro. The shroud is the same. Yes, repros are available, though be careful of the applications listed by some vendors. Year One shows 68-70 shrouds the same, but 68 is different.
Joe as Always Thank you, another stupid question, would it be worth finding an adapter and adding engine oil cooling through the tranny cooler in the Radiator, just thinking out loud?
Joe as Always Thank you, another stupid question, would it be worth finding an adapter and adding engine oil cooling through the tranny cooler in the Radiator, just thinking out loud?
I don't know if the trans cooler can support sufficient flow rate for engine oil, which is more viscous than ATF. If you're worried about that, I'd just get an external cooler.
Their site says it won't matter if the cooling lines are not used because they will not affect the operation with a manual.
The listing shows alternate part numbers may be sent that will work on your application so I hope that doesn't translate into "plastic tanks". Will see when I receive the part. Most likely will be metal though.
wow, can't get a human on the phone, that's helpful. I need to know if it will work with factory a/c and auto trans, does anyone have the part number? There's several listed, none at that price
wow, can't get a human on the phone, that's helpful. I need to know if it will work with factory a/c and auto trans, does anyone have the part number? There's several listed, none at that price
Go to rockauto.com, click on Part Number Search, and type in that number. Just came up for me at $59.
I went to oldsmobile, 455 cooling, radiator. At top of list. Only 5 left when I saw it. Won't show under 72 though.
Are you talking about RockAuto.com? Click on Oldsmobile, scroll down to 1971, select 442, select 455 (don't get me started that they also list a 350...), select Cooling, select Radiator.
But hey, Joe, if you want to let me swap out one of your Friday deliveries for my Tuesday delivery, I could go ahead and giterdun this weekend
I wouldn't have any problem with that, except that I'll be out of town until late Sat. I've got a last minute trip to L.A. that just got scheduled. Somehow these meetings always manage to miss the Pomona or Long Beach swap meet weekends...
No worries, thanks Joe. Looks like it may be here here Friday anyway according to the FedEx tracking.
I'm going to go ahead and install a new fan clutch and high flow thermostat while I'm at it. Since I don't trust my Chilton's manual and don't have the shop manual yet, do you guys know what temp the thermostat should be? I'm thinking it should be 180 but see there are 165's and 195's available also. I want to use the same temp that would have come from the factory.
The fan clutch, should that be a thermal fan clutch right? I also see on OPGI that there are 7 blade fans that are 17.5 inches in diameter, and 6 blade "fan clutch fan blades" that are 18 inches in diameter. I believe I have the latter, is that the correct fan?
I also was wondering what the correct backspacing is between the fan and the radiator. My engine isn't the factory motor so I was just wondering if it was set up correctly.
The fan clutch, should that be a thermal fan clutch right? I also see on OPGI that there are 7 blade fans that are 17.5 inches in diameter, and 6 blade "fan clutch fan blades" that are 18 inches in diameter. I believe I have the latter, is that the correct fan?
I also was wondering what the correct backspacing is between the fan and the radiator. My engine isn't the factory motor so I was just wondering if it was set up correctly.
Thanks guys
Your fan position looked fine. The engine will be in the same place as the original 350 - there's no other option and the BBO and SBO are the exact same length. The only difference is water pump length, and with A/C you should have the long pump. Yes, be sure to get the thermal clutch, not the non-thermal one. Either fan will bolt to the clutch - the mounting is the same.
I posted this in the other thread, But how are you going to deal with the heater hose outlet ( the extra one on Radiator) Joe mentioned it might be worth having it cut off and plugged or capped? is this something that cabn be accomplished with a copper cap from a plumbing supply and some plumbing solder ( silver type) or would this have to be done at the ( A) rad shop?
Joe mentioned something about the plug having a limited lifetime?
Thank you joe, do you think I could just solder a plumbing cap on there? I liked your idea of having it cut off and plugged, but I would think a sweated copper cap would be a good fix.
Thank you joe, do you think I could just solder a plumbing cap on there? I liked your idea of having it cut off and plugged, but I would think a sweated copper cap would be a good fix.
Depends on the diameter of the hose barb. Keep in mind that it's a hose barb, not a standard copper pipe size. Also, can you solder that cap on without overheating the solder holding the barb to the tank?
Depends on the diameter of the hose barb. Keep in mind that it's a hose barb, not a standard copper pipe size. Also, can you solder that cap on without overheating the solder holding the barb to the tank?
Joe, I was thinking of the heat near the tank connection, perhaps a heat sink? yes if you can find the right size cap as well, as you said in the other it might be worth taking the entire tube off and just having the hole plugged at the tank all together? I will look at it when the radiator arrives. what is the worse that could happen? LOL..
Is there an extra hose outlet on this radiator that we all just ordered? Why would that be?
It's cheap because it's a generic-fit radiator that includes Chevy applications. On the Chevys, there is a heater hose that runs to the radiator instead of to the water pump.
At this price even if you took it to a Radiator shop I couldn't see them charging a ton to shut that part permanently, I am still thrilled at the bargain.
What about the modifications needed to mount the new radiator? Is there a set of parts available that I can order?
The "right" way is to swap out the top and bottom saddles on the core support and top plate. The usual repro parts houses sell saddle and rubber mounts for the four-row radiator, but it requires some cutting and spot welding to install them. I got mine from USA Parts Supply in Kearnysville, WV, but Inline Tube also sells them, as to others.
If you don't care about absolutely correct appearance, you can also just flatten the stock brackets. I've done this on prior cars that I owned. I typically flatten only the leg towards the motor on each of the brackets. If you do this carefully, it doesn't look like a total hack. You could also do this for now and install the correct saddles later (like over the winter) if you wanted to.
It's cheap because it's a generic-fit radiator that includes Chevy applications. On the Chevys, there is a heater hose that runs to the radiator instead of to the water pump.
My 76 olds 350 with a/c had a heater hose running to the radiator.
You could probably solder a penny over the hose pipe. keep a wet rag around the base of the barb, If I remember correctly the hose barbs were silver soldered in for more strength.
June 14th, 2016, 12:29 PM
