becerra66

Brief Background since this is a new thread for me

Bought my cutlass feb 14th. sat around unregistered since 1989
350 Rocket 5.7 4bbl carb

Someone mentioned to me that my gas or carburetor is running rich or HIGH lol..not sure what that means

I have smoke when idling only carburetor sounds a little congested

How can I clean or adjust

any process or How to or pics advice will be appreciated

Fun71

One possibility is the float level is incorrect, which would cause too much fuel in the float bowl and the carb to run rich. There may be other things going on, though. Choke could be adjusted incorrectly, ignition timing could be incorrect, vacuum leak, fuel pressure too high, etc.

I can't remember if you have done a complete tune-up on the engine (cap, rotor, plugs, wires, points, dwell, timing) but I would recommend ensuring those things are OK before digging into carburetor work.

Professur

I'm the first person to recommend DIY to anyone .. but the first thing you need to do is understand what the system in question is doing. If you don't know what 'running rich' means ... stop. Don't touch anything, until you've done some learning. The chances of improving anything at this point are zilch. There are several good books on Rochester carbs to be had either online or at your local bookstore or autoparts shop. Invest the $20 and give yourself a couple of days to learn what the carb does in detail ... then you'll be in a good position to attack the problem. It's not a difficult system to understand ... but it's finicky.

tru-blue 442

I doubt if you will be able to read any of this, but it
will give you an idea of the break down of your carb.
If the car has been sitting as long as you say, more than
likely the carb will need to have a tune up kit installed.

becerra66

@ Professur good idea!!! anytime you all post stuff very seldom I run outside that very minute to tackle the issue.
1. I always review and re-read what the post say..
2. Then I go read up on it as you mentioned in my own books and internet research
3. then I go assess the situation
4. Review everything 1 more time then I work on the problem at hand

Its Been over 25 hell maybe 30years damn Im getting old that I gotten a chance to work on a car like this..
So I have to re train the brain..

Thank youuuu

becerra66

@ Fun71......

Ok during lunch went for a cruise during lunch gotta get out this forsaken building
and the car felt like it wanted to stall...I pressed on the gas and it sputtered...then it stalled..The past few days been hard to start...normally it just starts right up

what about a cleaner like stp or something yea or nay
Ok here's a question should I use reg unleaded gas or what

Since Ive had the car here's a list of what Ive done
Oil change
raidiator flush
Spark plugs
distributor and rotor
a few gas hoses and the correct one too for fuel
Alternator and Belt
1 fusible link
Purge Valve Canister
Front window shield

oldcutlass

Did you set the dwell and timing?

becerra66

No is it neccessary to do that after a mini tune up

All the above mentioned was done about 3 weeks ago...

Cars been purring like a tiger other than the alternator needed last week

When I start it now carb sounds flooded

don71

I would concentrate on the choke setting for now, if the car is running good at other times.

Does holding your foot to the floor help the car starting?

Or, are you pumping the pedal at all, to help start it?

oldcutlass

Don't use any additives yet. A lot of carb problems are actually ignition issues. I would go through and finish the tune up. Then adjust the carb.

becerra66

Ok heres the scenario

Starting car in the mornings
I pump a few times and turn key I do this 2 times then on the 3rd try always starts ups
Once it starts I let him warm up for about 10-15 mins


After driving then starting car normally would start right up sounded great

On the freeway/ highway run beautiful sounds great..only idling

Holding pedal to floor no I havent done it that way

becerra66

Love this phrase - There is nothing that can't be solved with a suitable amount of explosives! makes me smile everytime I read it

Ok No additives yet

becerra66

Wish me luck on my ride home....

Times like this is when I WISH I had a boyfriend husband or something ughhhhh
feeling intimidated

oldcutlass

Watch what you wish for...

Octania

I have a '77 403 in the '85 442.

It has a similar carb setup
Pump 1x to set the choke and put some fuel in, starts right up.
wait 2-3 seconds. blip the throttle and she setles into high idle

the only time I would have to crank or pump more than 1x is after weeks or months of not being used. Last driven about 10/2014.

Sounds like you could use a tutor and go thru the carb... after finsishing the tune-up with dwell and timing setting. Bad dwell will cause all kinds of ills.

becerra66

It's like I wont be doing anything...its raining..on the way home carb was perfect...got to say this I always put shell gas in my vehicles...But the oher day I put cheap gas...so Notice the way it had been starting....I put plus unleaded incar...to me it seems to run smoother with the plus grade gas....what type of gas do u all use....and btw...my ride home last night was good...no sputter...no stalls

becerra66

Not for me...dont think Im meant to have anyone....Im a loner...anything

becerra66

@Octania...yep that's what I need is a tutor....come on over...lol

MDchanic

Alright, Terry, there's too much going on here for us to make intelligent suggestions that have much chance of helping you.

So I think that your most recent post is right on target.
If you check the ClassicOlds Map, you will see at least 5 ClassicOlds members in your city, at least one of whom is a fairly high poster, and it might not hurt to contact them and see if someone can stop by and have a look at this car in person.

Essentially, you've got a running problem, mostly at idle, that seems intermittent.
In order to figure out something like this on any car, you have to start at the basics and make sure that all the simple stuff is right first.

In your case, you've recently installed a new points-type distributor (Why?), without setting the points or the timing. These have to be done before anything else.
Just because the car seems okay most of the time does not mean that they are right, and you cannot set up anything else until they are set correctly.

After that, everything else has to be gone over, step by step, as the car's previous owner was clearly a gorilla, and you have no idea what he may have screwed up.
You can really take nothing for granted in this situation.

If I were to throw a dart, I would guess that you've got a sticking choke. This may just require a little GumOut on the linkage, or it may require a complete rebuild. Once again, it's best if someone has a look at it.

Also, you had mentioned that you've got a leak right after your muffler, at the joint between the muffler and the tailpipe. This may just be a loose r missing clamp, but it is also a common failure mode, where the the tailpipe corrodes, becomes thin, and then cracks, which may mean you need a new tailpipe, or possibly a whole new muffler, too, if the muffler outlet is too icky to save.

So, I would suggest starting a Wanted thread for someone local to look the car over, and / or sending messages to everyone you can find who lives near you. You'd be amazed at what someone who's seen a lot of these can do in a quick couple of hours.
Sorry, unless you're driving to Maine, I ain't the one.

- Eric

becerra66

@ Eric - simmer down over there fella...if I was a sensitive kind of chic I would thi...Geeeezzzz MAnnnnnnnn!!!!!!

Hell Ya there's a crap load of things wrong with the vehicle and not really sure what to do next...so I am sort of fixin as to what ever has stop working at that moment....

I do have a friend from way back that's been coming over when I need assistance or advice, so far he's been helpful, but feel bad asking him to come over all the time, that's why I turn to you all..

I called him to ask a few questions so he decided to come by again...he came by and helped me replace the power steering belt, also he looked at the choke and your dart was right on the bullseye...

But having a Cutlass man looking at it might be right WHAT I NEED at the moment..
I am a picky chic, and I just don't let any mechanic under my hood..you know what I mean..


Timing I will go have that done friday cause that I CANT do...and I will have the muffler fixed to on friday..somethings I just cant do...

becerra66

This morning Don71 I did what u suggested, I pumped a few times then held the pedal down when turning the key..It did start right up that way...

After I changed out the distribcap and rotor...when I started him he sounded really smooth it was like vrooommmmm....I'm also going to continue to use Plus Unleaded gas...sounds better...

Thank you

oldcutlass

Go buy a timing light and a tach and dwell meter. They are not very expensive, and we can walk you through that also. Seriously this stuff is not that hard, you can do it.

MDchanic

Well, you could...

All you need is a Tach/Dwell meter and a timing light.

You can get them all day at flea markets and yard sales from $2 to $10.

I know I've got a few extra Dwell/Tachs lying around - drop me a note and I'd be glad to send you one.

- Eric

Fun71

I agree with the above, setting timing/dwell is something that is entirely within your capabilities. All you need is the tools and with your abilities it will be a snap. Plus, this is basic tune up so it's something your car will need periodically so you might as well get the tools and learn how to do it now instead of paying someone every time.

becerra66

@ oldcutlass ok will do..I member somewhat..so with you alls guidance I'm sure I can do it...but will be intimidating for me...since I've never really done something like that


@ MDchanic thanks will do


@ fun71 thanks appreciated


awwwww you all are ALL so nice.....


I going to take the Rocket for his 1st night time cruise, let's see how he feels....

becerra66

Hey MDchanic send me a steering wheel too...cuz I know how much you like the one I have now.. *--*

MDchanic

This one okay?



It's from a '73 fullsize, and it's got some cracks, but I think it'd look better than the one that's on there.

I may even be able to find the aluminum insert for the horn button. Maybe.

- Eric

becerra66

Yes of course...Im easy to please...anything but the Chevy...right....Sweet

pogo69

Hmmm this is interesting

becerra66

Come on pogo69...give a gal a break....lol....

twintracks

Has he fuel filter been changed? I don't see it on the list.

brown7373

Did I miss something, or misread something? You bought it in February (2015?), but it has sat unregistered since 1989? 26 years?


I think you are kidding yourself to think you can get the engine running properly by a few adjustment. You might find a way to get it running, but reliably? The carb needs cleaned and rebuilt. Even brand new in the package rubber parts from 26 years ago will be destroyed in short order using todays fuel. Either learn to do a proper rebuild or pay someone competent to do it. After that, I would give it a top to bottom tune up...plugs, points, condenser, cap, rotor and wires. Then you need to address the brakes. New wheel cylinders, hoses and rebuilt calipers if disks. 26 year old brake parts and tires, (regardless of how much tread) are an accident waiting to happen. Your life, and the lives of others on the road around you are at stake here.


That is a start, but still more to do after that. bearings, radiator and hoses, etc.

becerra66

@twintracks no I haven't, but I did confirm yesterday on the location so I can do that as well...


Here's a picture


But @ MDchanic and Don71 check out this pic I posted
No rain today in san Antonio suns out and I am too..first thing I check was the choke...SURE ****.....Eric who says you cant make an intelligence anaylsis...YOU GUYS WERE SPOT ON ...I AM SO IMPRESSED ITS CRAZY there's a wire crimped on the top part of the choke once I tapped it it moved and was free..it was jammed so it wasn't opening properly..


So Now that I see the issue with the choke what do I do with the wire on there...should I remove it....on my way to get some gumout...

becerra66

@ brown73

mmmmmm yes u have missed a lot REALLY REALLY r u serious with that question
what KIND OF WOMAN U THINK I AM......if I thought all I needed to do was change a plug put some gas and oil change after sitting for 20 years I sure as hell wouldn't be asking a 1001 questions everyday....
Checked the brakes all looks good there, yes and I am aware I have a lot of stuff that needs tending too...
Tires REPLACED with better used ones already hello kitty that's the first thing I replaced were tires..
radiator has been flushed looks great....your message is coming across very condescending....peace out....

becerra66

Yep yep Octania...this morning I wanted to start the cutlass as yesterday morning..2 pumps pedal to floor......starts right up.....


the things that make you go ouu ouu ouuuu

oldcutlass

Was that picture of the choke after it was warmed or cold?

MDchanic

Terry, as you've probably observed by now, the resolution capacity for uploaded photos on this site is pitiful.
A lot of people use outside hosting sites, like PhotoBucket, to allow them to post larger photos, but I'm not in love with that solution, as those photos are usually taken down with the passage of time, and future viewers are left looking at a few confusing words and a drawing of a frog.
If possible, could you take some closer photos as well? I really can't see what you're talking about in those.





Be very careful with the factory fuel filter, as it's easy to cross-thread the large retaining nut in the carburetor, and then things get nasty.

- Eric

oldcutlass

With the inline filter, there may not be one inside the carb. If there looks to be any type of epoxy on the stock filter housing, I would not mess with it because of the reasons Eric stated above. Simply change the aftermarket one and replace the rubber lines. Either way the aftermarket filter needs to be changed also.

becerra66

You know..i did change resolution on those pics...i will repost when I get home...I got a carb man for Cutlass that I came across at autopsrt strre...that I trust...be back soon

MDchanic

For manuals, the Carburetor chapter of the Chassis Service Manual is great, and so is the Rochester QuadraJet Manual.

- Eric