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When I started noticing a small weep from the inlet fitting. tried tightening it but when that wouldn't work I tried to find a gasket but couldn't find the right one, the one that came in my cheapo kit was thin and still leaked so I doubled it up. it worked until just now I noticed it, tightened it and totally stripped the inlet.
I know they sell self tapping fittings, but the way my line is set up is with a small angled brass piece fit inside the brass inlet to meet the line, so now I don't know what the best route is, new line with self tapping fitting? it has this screen which sits in the brass might not fit into the new fitting. help?
forgot to mention, its the original Rochester 7023051. it appears to me that the brass inlet wasn't original either, but now im afraid that if I put a self tapping fitting in it wont fit the angled brass piece that meets the line which is just 3/4 inch from making it to the carb. just not sure what the best route is for now. im not trying to pull it or swap it at all, so if someone was going to say "just slap a holley on it", im just gonna stop you right there. at this point its looking as though I have no choice.
This is a common problem with a lot of Rochester carbs. You need to buy a special tap and helicoil kit, or send it out to a reputable carb shop to get it repaired. There are a few threads on here with reference to how it is repaired and who others have used. I'm sure others will chime in with recommendations. I edited your title.
i will get in touch with a shop i think i know one. but there are self tapping inlet pieces that i think will work and are meant for probably just such the occasion, or would you advise against this?
ehh, im really not trying to wait for parts or send it out for a rebuild. im thinking the self tapping piece will work. if not im hoping maybe the local shop will take a look it, id hate to butcher the inlet hole beyond repair but i think ill try self tapping
I found a few that look like they'll work, like Motormite help! part #55125, its a 7/8 self tapping with a 5/16 inlet (which will fit the brass angle piece) and it comes with a little nylon ring. says "for stripped carburetor inlets". I think itll work, I know anyone who likes to do things right opt for professional repairs, but if I can find one im gonna try it. has anyone else tried one of these fittings before?
It all depends on how much meat is still there, I'd try it but remove the internal filter and run an inline. This way once its assembled it won't need to come apart again.
I had this same problem with mine, i ordered a new tape and fitting to solve the problem and it worked great. If you need the contact information let me know.
The problem is someone, you or a previous owner, over tightened the large inlet nut, or turned the fuel inlet line nut without holding the large nut, and stripped the threads. As mentioned, very common problem. I don't know if the local shops still sell them, but local shops used to stock oversize self tapping inlet fittings. Just remember to tighten the large nut first, then hold it while tightening the fuel line nut. Also, the washer on the inlet fitting seal it. When removing, hold the large inlet nut while removing the small fuel line nut. No amount of Teflon tape will seal it.
I'm not sure there is a "quick fix" if you can't wait for a correct repair fitting to be shipped. You could epoxy the fitting in the carb over the stripped threads, but once you do that you will probably never be able to remove it again without a lot of difficulty and the possibility to totally ruining the carb.
I would bite the bullet, order the correct repair fitting and wait for it (assuming you can't find one locally).
Last edited by brown7373; July 19th, 2014 at 07:06 AM.
Reason: addition
The self-tapping fitting will probably work, but may make it harder to fix "properly" in the future, and may not last through lots of disassembly / reassembly cycles, so take Eric's advice and remove the filter, so you never have to touch it again. Also, use some good thread sealer.
Back in the "old days," I'd just screw it back together with epoxy and figure the car would be junked before it needed to be apart again, but that's not cool now that they're highfalutin' antiques.
the other thing is the minute shavings that come from screwing in a self tapping anything. ill just try to vac it a little bit without sucking out any fuel. im sure its really nothing, but still the thought of teeny tiny shavings migrating into the carb/combustion chambers. i guess its no biggie though
I had this same problem with mine, i ordered a new tape and fitting to solve the problem and it worked great. If you need the contact information let me know.
Chris Dreiling in Texas has a great fix for this, I believe he is a member of this sight.
the other thing is the minute shavings that come from screwing in a self tapping anything. ill just try to vac it a little bit without sucking out any fuel. im sure its really nothing, but still the thought of teeny tiny shavings migrating into the carb/combustion chambers. i guess its no biggie though
Vacuuming is a good idea. The shavings can stick the inlet needle open so be prepared for a flooding scenario until they get flushed out.
The self tapping inlets work well, they extend the threads further in and hold tight. I have used them with success and prefer them over the Oring style repair fittings. Here are some available on QuadrajetParts.com:
WHOOPS EDIT: realized I gave you Qjet inlet link. here is 4G inlets: http://quadrajetparts.com/rochester-...c-104_115.html
Work it into the carb a little at a time like you would a threadcutting tap.
Last edited by techg8; July 20th, 2014 at 11:12 AM.
JBweld would work, but it does get gummy/rubbery after some time exposed to fuel.
If I were you I would use a tougher aerospace epoxy like MT-13 by smoothon. that stuff might never come off. be sure to remove the fuel filter and use an inline one.
Whatever epoxy you use, it is imperative that it does not get wet with gasoline while curing for 24 hours.
ok, so im juggling between epoxy and self tapping fitting. I just wanna make sure I get the right one. autozone lists one as #55125 help 5/16 inlet repair fitting. I just hope that the thread size matches my inlet I know self tapping pieces are supposed to be oversized slightly but I need it to be the right size for the inlet if its too big and I put it in anyway im gonna end up destroying the opening.
that part is actually unavailable from autozone, so I think im gonna go get some epoxy from home depot. a lot of other forums say the same thing about jbweld techg8 said, so I will look for mt-13 and see what else is there. any other last second product recommendations?
Last edited by 63super88; July 20th, 2014 at 09:07 AM.
disregard everything else. all I want to know right now is before I order one, will one of these fit in my particular Rochester. im not sure if the actual inlet is a 7/8 thread (4gc 7023051 with 3/8 line, I need 5/16 opening for brass angle fitting):
Don't just use any epoxy. Most carb people use Marine-Tex gray to seal the well plugs, and I would think that is the best for this job. I bought it at ACE Hardware.
Should you end up using epoxy it can be undone by getting it hot (275-300 degrees) and the epoxy will become liquid while hot.I would use a heat gun rather than a torch plus have the carb free of all gas. I have done this on stocks and barreled actions that people have forgotten to use release agent and then glued their gun parts together......Tedd
well if I do go the route of epoxy I seriously doubt id even try removing the fitting, and immediately contemplate what kind of carb will replace it within the next 6 months. I use the car very often, having it out of commission for a week is a long time for me.
hopefully this self tapping fitting is the solution for now. just to break the tension of the 5 day wait for shipping and finding out the hard way, would anyone know if the fitting I ordered is correct? I know the 5/16 opening is what I need but I fear the inlet threads will be too large?
so ive come to the conclusion that the fitting i ordered is too large and even if it did fit it would butcher the inlet and have no way of sealing it with gasket anyway ($10 and lost time, but hey a nifty piece to have for the next project). so i called shops in the area to see if they would have pieces and unfortunately they didnt and all told me that an extended one would work but good luck finding that thread size. then they all said epoxy waz #1 fix for these older 4GC inlets. one shop said plain jb weld and another said marine tex then i remembdred the 2 comments on here about it. ive never worked with marine tex before, its definately more resistant than JB weld then?
i was at autozone and saw magnum gas tank repair putty, it looks like it would be strong and its definitely designed to constantly sit in fuel, however im not sure if it gets solid and strong enough to hole a threaded fitting in place, so im off to return it and see if home depot has that marine tex. im hoping to do the repair within the next few hours, and I believe marine tex needs to sit for 48 hrs so ill assemble it then. unless someone posts in the next 20 minutes and says the fuel tank repair putty will work.
ehh, im really not trying to wait for parts or send it out for a rebuild. im thinking the self tapping piece will work. if not im hoping maybe the local shop will take a look it, id hate to butcher the inlet hole beyond repair but i think ill try self tapping
I don't want to be a *****, but for a guy that didn't want to wait around, you're waiting around a whole lot. Bite the bullet and do it the right way. Have someone with the helicoil kit do it and then it's done right and you don't have to worry about it any longer. I'd say get the kit and do it yourself ... but the kits are $30-50, the inserts are $3 for half a dozen or more.
I don't want to be a *****, but for a guy that didn't want to wait around, you're waiting around a whole lot. Bite the bullet and do it the right way. Have someone with the helicoil kit do it and then it's done right and you don't have to worry about it any longer. I'd say get the kit and do it yourself ... but the kits are $30-50, the inserts are $3 for half a dozen or more.
I guess it was a little douchey to seem impatient. called 3 shops and they all said its possible to helicoil but advised against it, the inlet is raised above the carb and is pretty thin, and it has a small 5/8 18 thread (which they don't even make self cutting fittings for anyway, I ordered wrong one). I tried to wait for the piece thinking it was better than the epoxy but when I realized I was beat either way, I went out and got some marine tex gray. I mixed up a batch, and pasted it in place with no gasket, it was able to catch the last thread or 2 and seat ok. I left the screen element out (im hoping no debris was sitting in there, last thing I need is a stray metal shaving wreaking havoc in there). there is an inline filter in the line before the fuel pump, plus the fuel pump has its own little filter (which I think im going to make another thread about, may think about replacing it now) so I think im pretty good with fuel filtration, that screen was just to catch the big stuff anyway.
looks like it set nicely, marine tex looks like heavy duty stuff. at first it actually got real warm and had a light smokey vapor as i mixed in the hardener. i put it on all the threads and snugged it in with the last good thread, and laid a small bead around the edges of the fitting with a toothpick after it was in. wiped off the excess and it actually looks pretty clean. after you guys on here and the local shops recommended marine tex i figured it had to be tje right stuff for the job, but it ran me $18 at the local marine shop for a 2oz container.
DO NOT I repeat DO NOT USE J-B WELD. It does not work with gas. You will be purchasing a replacement carburetor in a couple of years. Take it for me I know from experience.
Replacing gas hoses and adding a fuel filter and noticed that the inlet threads
are stripped on my 98 also. Looks like there are some fresh threads longer in
into the inlet maybe.
Saw i hole in the threads on the carbs inlet right side ( some sort of channel ??? )
Is there any problem if this get blocked by a longer thread ?
Luckely i had the old Rochester 2 jet left when i replaced this on my 88.
The inlet fittings threads looked a lot better and i machined of a little
material to get access to better threads longer in the carb housing.
Should try to start the engine again tomorrow.
Replacing gas hoses and adding a fuel filter and noticed that the inlet threads
are stripped on my 98 also. Looks like there are some fresh threads longer in
into the inlet maybe.
Saw i hole in the threads on the carbs inlet right side ( some sort of channel ??? )
Is there any problem if this get blocked by a longer thread ?
Luckely i had the old Rochester 2 jet left when i replaced this on my 88.
The inlet fittings threads looked a lot better and i machined of a little
material to get access to better threads longer in the carb housing.
Should try to start the engine again tomorrow.
Old gas inlet Should try this
How did that work out for you?
I just replaced my 4GC with a rebuilt one. But as my old gas inlet was a angled one I used that, but it leaked a lot...😖
How did that work out for you?
I just replaced my 4GC with a rebuilt one. But as my old gas inlet was a angled one I used that, but it leaked a lot...😖
The gas inlet works without leaking (yet )The Gasket Cement blue was "crap", did not work for me.
But i have some other issues with the carb,flooding gas and have noticed that the car "hesitates" when i turn in crossings.
Have not noticed this hesitation straight forward. Maybe a rebuilt carb is a good thing for me also.
The gas inlet works without leaking (yet )The Gasket Cement blue was "crap", did not work for me.
But i have some other issues with the carb,flooding gas and have noticed that the car "hesitates" when i turn in crossings.
Have not noticed this hesitation straight forward. Maybe a rebuilt carb is a good thing for me also.
So are the threads bad in your rebuilt carb ??
No actually they don’t look bad at all. Maybe I just need a new sealing washer as they seem to be just “single use” washers ?
I also had some hesitation tendencies, but thought it was due to lack of gas in the tank. I haven’t had my car for that long time yet so not sure about that.
July 18th, 2014, 06:07 PM
J-B Weld
