Convertible top motor clicking sound
April 13th, 2014, 05:03 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Chattanooga Tn.
Posts: 313
Convertible top motor clicking sound
So I can hear the motor ( behind the back seat) click once when I push the "up" and then hear it click once when I click "down" Nothing else happens. I followed many other threads on the convertible top/motor but couldn't find a related issue. Anyone experienced this issue? Any suggestions? Also as you can see in the avatar picture I can raise the top up(manually) to the Zenith position but from there it's stuck in that position. Can't push down either. Anyone know why it "clicks" and no action? Thanks
Last edited by MudEye; April 13th, 2014 at 05:25 PM.
April 14th, 2014, 08:30 AM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 878
Remove and clean all electrical connnectors until shiney clean. Might be the ground since doing the same thing up/down. If no improvement, try running a jumper directly to the battery to determine if it's the pump or wiring leading to it. The switch or circuit breaker are likely suspects if the motor works fine off the jumper.
April 14th, 2014, 06:48 PM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Chattanooga Tn.
Posts: 313
Hey Hookem
All connectors look clean. There is only 1 single ground connector from motor that is independent from a plastic pin connector. It is clean. Could You please specify "ground connectors" to clean? Also How do I run a jumper directly from the motor to the battery? Thanks Man.
All connectors look clean. There is only 1 single ground connector from motor that is independent from a plastic pin connector. It is clean. Could You please specify "ground connectors" to clean? Also How do I run a jumper directly from the motor to the battery? Thanks Man.
April 15th, 2014, 08:00 AM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 878
Corrosion can get inside connections and ground wires, I was suggesting disconnecting and cleaning them even it they look OK as-is. On the jumper, I just meant run a wire (12 ga or bigger, that pump draws a lot of juice) from directly from the + battery terminal to the pump motor for a sec to see if it spins. Trying to isolate the problem between wiring or the pump itself.
April 15th, 2014, 09:10 AM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Northeast Connecticut
Posts: 780
It sounds to me like the pump might be stuck, and not the motor. The best thing to do is to remove the pump/motor assembly, and disassemble the pump from the motor side. Then you can check the motor to see if it is working correctly. If it is the pump side that is "frozen", you will need to disassemble it, clean it, and put it back together. The hydraulic system used brake fluid when it was built. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, and even though you think of it as a sealed unit, air does get into it. Once it has moisture inside the working parts, the steel parts start to rust. I suggest that if this is the case, that you also remove the pistons, and drain them, and also blow out the plastic lines. When it comes time to refill the system, with everything clean, refill with silicone brake fluid, and you will never have a problem with it again.
April 15th, 2014, 09:52 AM
#6
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Seneca Falls, NY
Posts: 5,258
Corrosion can get inside connections and ground wires, I was suggesting disconnecting and cleaning them even it they look OK as-is. On the jumper, I just meant run a wire (12 ga or bigger, that pump draws a lot of juice) from directly from the + battery terminal to the pump motor for a sec to see if it spins. Trying to isolate the problem between wiring or the pump itself.
Exactly
Before you take anything apart, disconnect the wiring harness at the pump and run 12V back to it. If yours has two wires to it like my 68, one is + up and one is + down. connect to each wire (not at the same time!) with the 12V and see if the top moves. If it still doesn't work check the ground wire off the motor to make sure it's clean and grounded. If it does move after this test it's probably the switch or a connection. If not it's likely the motor or pump.
The switches are a crappy design as they run full current through a little switch and as previously stated the pump motors draw a lot of current so the switches burn up
Last edited by allyolds68; April 15th, 2014 at 10:59 AM.
April 23rd, 2014, 04:48 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Chattanooga Tn.
Posts: 313
Exactly
Pump and motor( are they one in the same?) I see one behind back seat in trunk. And wire running back under back seat. Remove back seat? looking for wire connections to test from battery. Only connector I see(behind seat) is a plastic prong connector(much like a computer power supply power connector) And I also filled it up with tranny fluid( motor/pump?) before I posted this message. I guess I could drain and refill with brake fluid? Thanks
Before you take anything apart, disconnect the wiring harness at the pump and run 12V back to it. If yours has two wires to it like my 68, one is + up and one is + down. connect to each wire (not at the same time!) with the 12V and see if the top moves. If it still doesn't work check the ground wire off the motor to make sure it's clean and grounded. If it does move after this test it's probably the switch or a connection. If not it's likely the motor or pump.
The switches are a crappy design as they run full current through a little switch and as previously stated the pump motors draw a lot of current so the switches burn up
Pump and motor( are they one in the same?) I see one behind back seat in trunk. And wire running back under back seat. Remove back seat? looking for wire connections to test from battery. Only connector I see(behind seat) is a plastic prong connector(much like a computer power supply power connector) And I also filled it up with tranny fluid( motor/pump?) before I posted this message. I guess I could drain and refill with brake fluid? Thanks
Before you take anything apart, disconnect the wiring harness at the pump and run 12V back to it. If yours has two wires to it like my 68, one is + up and one is + down. connect to each wire (not at the same time!) with the 12V and see if the top moves. If it still doesn't work check the ground wire off the motor to make sure it's clean and grounded. If it does move after this test it's probably the switch or a connection. If not it's likely the motor or pump.
The switches are a crappy design as they run full current through a little switch and as previously stated the pump motors draw a lot of current so the switches burn up
April 23rd, 2014, 04:52 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Seneca Falls, NY
Posts: 5,258
Pump and motor are the same unit. There is one connector with two wires in it. One wire is +up and the other is +down. It only uses one ground which goes from the motor body to the car body. You shouldn't have to remove the seat to test the motor. You can access the wires from the trunk. If your convertible well liner is gone you can reach it from over the back seat. You just need to run a test wire from the + battery terminal to the pump wire(s). I've got a nice set of jumper cables I use for stuff like this but obviously you need to run a small wire from the jumper cable clamp to the pump. Again DON'T touch both the pump leads at the same time with the 12V+ from the battery or you'll fry the pump motor.
Last edited by allyolds68; April 23rd, 2014 at 05:03 PM.
April 27th, 2014, 06:07 PM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Chattanooga Tn.
Posts: 313
It sounds to me like the pump might be stuck, and not the motor. The best thing to do is to remove the pump/motor assembly, and disassemble the pump from the motor side. Then you can check the motor to see if it is working correctly. If it is the pump side that is "frozen", you will need to disassemble it, clean it, and put it back together. The hydraulic system used brake fluid when it was built. Brake fluid absorbs moisture from the air, and even though you think of it as a sealed unit, air does get into it. Once it has moisture inside the working parts, the steel parts start to rust. I suggest that if this is the case, that you also remove the pistons, and drain them, and also blow out the plastic lines. When it comes time to refill the system, with everything clean, refill with silicone brake fluid, and you will never have a problem with it again.
August 25th, 2016, 06:23 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Atl Ga
Posts: 89
Ok Guys So I ran the cable and wire from positive to the motor up and down connectors. No change, still one click sound both ways. So I removed motor from behind back seat( 3 of 4 grommets broke) Where can I get replacements? Disasembled the motor.Emptied fluid. Lots of grunge and sediment.Cleaned everything. The only problem was reassembling.There was 2 springs a ball bearing and a flat disc(like a battery) I think I know where all goes. But the springs? Do they go behind the little square things with the copper cable? If so What is the procedure to keep them in check while putting the top motor case on? Anyone? Also, for anyone else who wants to let the top down manually. After removing the motor and lines from motor,the top dropped. Nice! However when trying to close it, It took 2 people.
How tedious was this process and do you have any pics? I am having the same issue with a 72 Cutlass.
August 25th, 2016, 08:33 AM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Chattanooga Tn.
Posts: 313
Also easy to take the motor assembly apart. Only problem was I couldn't figure out how to reassemble! So I ended up buying a new motor which is still in the box! I've gotten so accustomed to letting the top down myself... Takes about 30 seconds. You may need help getting the top up cause it's heavy. Just be careful not to get stuck in a rainstorm! I'll get that motor in someday!!!
August 26th, 2016, 09:54 AM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Atl Ga
Posts: 89
It was very easy to take off the lines to allow the top to drop...
Also easy to take the motor assembly apart. Only problem was I couldn't figure out how to reassemble! So I ended up buying a new motor which is still in the box! I've gotten so accustomed to letting the top down myself... Takes about 30 seconds. You may need help getting the top up cause it's heavy. Just be careful not to get stuck in a rainstorm! I'll get that motor in someday!!!
Also easy to take the motor assembly apart. Only problem was I couldn't figure out how to reassemble! So I ended up buying a new motor which is still in the box! I've gotten so accustomed to letting the top down myself... Takes about 30 seconds. You may need help getting the top up cause it's heavy. Just be careful not to get stuck in a rainstorm! I'll get that motor in someday!!!
Ok thanks. I was contemplating whether or not to try and fix it myself or take it to an interior guy. But if it's more trouble to fix it on my own then I would just take it to a specialists.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
charlie1972
Cutlass
1
September 12th, 2014 10:20 AM
stan 65 cutlass
General Questions
11
October 7th, 2010 05:42 PM
