The parts that just won't work thread. (Original replacement or reproduction)
August 2nd, 2014, 11:13 AM
#42
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
Not me.
Look at it this way: You're safer than you are on a motorcycle.
You'll never make this as safe as a modern car, no matter what you do.
Hey, my car's got no shoulder belts, AND no roof. And, yes, I sometimes do 80mph in it for several hours at a time.
- Eric
Look at it this way: You're safer than you are on a motorcycle.
You'll never make this as safe as a modern car, no matter what you do.
Hey, my car's got no shoulder belts, AND no roof. And, yes, I sometimes do 80mph in it for several hours at a time.
- Eric
August 2nd, 2014, 01:26 PM
#44
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,659
Ordered a three-point seat belt setup with an extender on the shoulder part and a rigid sleeve over the female connector.
Ordered a set for each side, including mounting hardware for the shoulder point, since the factory shoulder point has two small screws and I didn't trust just one of those small screws to hold the weight of a body at 80 MPH.
The sets:
The mounting hardware consisted of a plate for each side with a hole in each corner, smaller holes in between, and a threaded hole in the middle, suitable for attaching the shoulder strap.
The plates didn't fit properly with the factory mounting point (weren't advertised as doing so), so I had to modify with an ol' drill. Left is drilled, right is pre-drilled.
I mounted the plates inside out with a washer to get a bit of clearance from the headliner. Due to the angle of the shoulder strap I might go back on this decision.
The biggest/only real problem with the set is the sleeve that comes for the female (short) end of the setup - the curvature and orientation of the buckle combined makes the sleeve useless in a Cutlass - when mounted properly on the driver's side, the buckle points towards the passenger, and vice versa.
All in all, you get nice hardware and seat belts, but the sleeves are not worth the extra cost.
Seff out.
Ordered a set for each side, including mounting hardware for the shoulder point, since the factory shoulder point has two small screws and I didn't trust just one of those small screws to hold the weight of a body at 80 MPH.
The sets:
The mounting hardware consisted of a plate for each side with a hole in each corner, smaller holes in between, and a threaded hole in the middle, suitable for attaching the shoulder strap.
The plates didn't fit properly with the factory mounting point (weren't advertised as doing so), so I had to modify with an ol' drill. Left is drilled, right is pre-drilled.
I mounted the plates inside out with a washer to get a bit of clearance from the headliner. Due to the angle of the shoulder strap I might go back on this decision.
The biggest/only real problem with the set is the sleeve that comes for the female (short) end of the setup - the curvature and orientation of the buckle combined makes the sleeve useless in a Cutlass - when mounted properly on the driver's side, the buckle points towards the passenger, and vice versa.
All in all, you get nice hardware and seat belts, but the sleeves are not worth the extra cost.
Seff out.
August 26th, 2014, 06:43 AM
#47
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Great Lake State: SE MI
Posts: 769
Todays part that just wont work are the Fusick rear seat floor mats in this '71.
If you lay them correctly in the front they climb up the back waaaayyy to far;
MVC-907F.jpg
If you line them up corecctly in the rear they are way too long at the front;
MVC-909F.jpg
If you lay them correctly in the front they climb up the back waaaayyy to far;
MVC-907F.jpg
If you line them up corecctly in the rear they are way too long at the front;
MVC-909F.jpg
August 31st, 2014, 05:02 AM
#48
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Posts: 129
The sport mirror gaskets (part #9874839) that OPGI sells for the 73-77 cutlass are way too thin and when used, leave your mirrors angled inward and high like a boxer's cropped ears. Remedy: grind down all high ridges and studs from one gasket, glue the second one directly on top, then sand bass of new formed gasket down at preferred angle and thickness. BTW, several other companies also sell the same part, claiming it fits.
August 31st, 2014, 06:17 AM
#49
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Brazil Indiana
Posts: 11,498
This is not a specific part but inventory EVERY order you get from Inline Tube. I have now had 5 orders in the last 3 years that had wrong parts in them. All of them were only one or two digits off from the part number I ordered. The invoice is always right but not all the parts in the box match the invoice.
Every time they sent me the correct part with no problems but if you don't check the order and 3 months later find out that you don't have the part you thought you had and need it now... It is just a pain in the butt.
Every time they sent me the correct part with no problems but if you don't check the order and 3 months later find out that you don't have the part you thought you had and need it now... It is just a pain in the butt.
August 31st, 2014, 01:09 PM
#50
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Great Lake State: SE MI
Posts: 769
Nor will they accept any part in return that you may have picked up from their booth/display at a car show or swap meet.
I have a box full of stuff they wont take back.
August 31st, 2014, 04:41 PM
#51
Administrator
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,521
I know it's not an Olds, but I've been putting on all the aftermarket trim that my buddy bought for his 66 SS Chevelle. This was the worst pile of crap I have ever seen purchased from OPGI. Clips suck, trim twisted and stamped wrong, and poor painted finishes. It's taken 10 times as long to assemble this car than it should have.
September 10th, 2014, 06:08 AM
#52
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Great Lake State: SE MI
Posts: 769
I called Fusick today about these mats. The guy on the phone told me that the factory patterned the mats on the "88" models and that the dealers/factory offered only the same mats for the Cutlass models, and that they were indeed correct.
September 16th, 2014, 10:00 AM
#53
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Vendor peeve:
NEVER any instructions
Lame *** no effort ads on epay and etc.
Working on a 71 Challenger with aftermarket engine parts.
Several times now we have tried various heater hose nipples, the car has AC and aftermarket front cover/ WP housing, and so things vary form the usual car.
I see what appears to be the correct heater nipples on epay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=221549433666
So I ask for a measurement of the thread sizes the parts have. I would like to get this over with on the next try. The reply:
"designed for stock applications. Not familiar with aftermarket water pump housings. Sorry I can't help more."
Well, sir you *can* help more, you see. You just opt not to. You CAN go get one in your hands, and measure it, and put that info in the ad. Then I *can* read that info and decide if it fits my engine.
I can't care more about the sale than you do. I will keep shopping, there are other suppliers. Helpful info gets return buyers and recommendations. Refusal to make the simplest measurement and put said info in the ad instead of 100's of lines of stuff that doesn't really help.... not so much.
Good lord, even the most basic info is just too much trouble to put in the ad.
Yet, they can fill page after page with all about the place and general info.
Grrrr...
I bought from a different vendor.
NEVER any instructions
Lame *** no effort ads on epay and etc.
Working on a 71 Challenger with aftermarket engine parts.
Several times now we have tried various heater hose nipples, the car has AC and aftermarket front cover/ WP housing, and so things vary form the usual car.
I see what appears to be the correct heater nipples on epay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=221549433666
So I ask for a measurement of the thread sizes the parts have. I would like to get this over with on the next try. The reply:
"designed for stock applications. Not familiar with aftermarket water pump housings. Sorry I can't help more."
Well, sir you *can* help more, you see. You just opt not to. You CAN go get one in your hands, and measure it, and put that info in the ad. Then I *can* read that info and decide if it fits my engine.
I can't care more about the sale than you do. I will keep shopping, there are other suppliers. Helpful info gets return buyers and recommendations. Refusal to make the simplest measurement and put said info in the ad instead of 100's of lines of stuff that doesn't really help.... not so much.
Good lord, even the most basic info is just too much trouble to put in the ad.
Yet, they can fill page after page with all about the place and general info.
Grrrr...
I bought from a different vendor.
September 16th, 2014, 10:15 AM
#54
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Bloomfield, MI
Posts: 422
Agreed; most things most of the time.
Octania you're a great example of refusing to take no for an answer.
This is todays:
Armrest bases from Original Parts Group.
The pic shows their part on the right and an original GM part on the left. The boss around the screw hole sticks out passed the part because it is supposed to fit down into the chrome base or bezel to locate/secure it. The problem is that the bosses are too large on the OPG part and wont fit into the base. If you want to use them you have to grind the protrusion flush and do your best manual alignment.
Octania you're a great example of refusing to take no for an answer.
This is todays:
Armrest bases from Original Parts Group.
The pic shows their part on the right and an original GM part on the left. The boss around the screw hole sticks out passed the part because it is supposed to fit down into the chrome base or bezel to locate/secure it. The problem is that the bosses are too large on the OPG part and wont fit into the base. If you want to use them you have to grind the protrusion flush and do your best manual alignment.
I also had issues with the PUI door panels from OPGI. Several of the clip reliefs were glued over. I was able to get some to work, but not all. Best advice was already stated - try not to order until you are ready to install, or inspect immediately.
September 24th, 2014, 07:05 AM
#55
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Great Lake State: SE MI
Posts: 769
Today's part that just wont work is this '71 442 reproduction battery tray from OPG.
It looks pretty good at first glance;
MVC-340F.jpg
But take a correct AC Delco group 27 battery;
MVC-337F.jpg
And it does not fit!
MVC-341F.jpg
That is because the radii in the corners are just different enough;
Does anyone know where I can get a 442 battery tray that will hold a group 27?
.
It looks pretty good at first glance;
MVC-340F.jpg
But take a correct AC Delco group 27 battery;
MVC-337F.jpg
And it does not fit!
MVC-341F.jpg
That is because the radii in the corners are just different enough;
Does anyone know where I can get a 442 battery tray that will hold a group 27?
.
September 29th, 2014, 03:02 PM
#57
Hookers under Hood
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,543
For the guys that own 73-76 cutlass years.... I recently ordered a set of front brake pads (Hawk performance brake pads)from summit racing.... PART # HWK-HB119F-594 these do not fit 73-77 although they say they do in the application pull down on their site. I had a discussion with them to do with this and they are going to sent me the proper one's. (To Canada) I cross referenced the Hawk Performance site to find the proper order # HB103F.590. Summit still has yet to change the site as of today.
Hope this helps out the 73-77 cutlass guys
Cheers
Eric
Hope this helps out the 73-77 cutlass guys
Cheers
Eric
October 11th, 2014, 09:42 PM
#58
green 72
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 3
Front tubular control arms
I recently purchased ebays front tubular control arms. Global west knock offs. After install I took my car to the shop for alignment only to find out the control arms were good, the ball joints that came in them were junk. A lot of play in them and I will need new ones soon. Now comes the dilemma, do I do the hard work again? Or let the pros handle this one when I get some coin? I hope this helps anyone trying to improve their suspension.
October 17th, 2014, 07:27 AM
#61
Today's part that just wont work is this '71 442 reproduction battery tray from OPG.
It looks pretty good at first glance;
But take a correct AC Delco group 27 battery;
And it does not fit!
That is because the radii in the corners are just different enough;
Does anyone know where I can get a 442 battery tray that will hold a group 27?
.
It looks pretty good at first glance;
But take a correct AC Delco group 27 battery;
And it does not fit!
That is because the radii in the corners are just different enough;
Does anyone know where I can get a 442 battery tray that will hold a group 27?
.
October 19th, 2014, 09:57 AM
#62
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
Just cut the corner off the battery. Jeeez.
But seriously,
Went to NAPA parts store, to get the best part- needed a 3/8 ID PCV hose with a 90 degree bend at one end. There it is. Bought it, did not look closely, figured it was as good as available.
Not so. Well, maybe "as good as available" but still crappy.
slides over both 3/8 nipples and is loose.
WTH?
Examine pkg closlier.... MADE IN CHINA
evidently they made the ID 10mm instead of 3/8
Not sure I can use it, I want no leaks and do not want to use worm clamps.
Grrrrrr...
But seriously,
Went to NAPA parts store, to get the best part- needed a 3/8 ID PCV hose with a 90 degree bend at one end. There it is. Bought it, did not look closely, figured it was as good as available.
Not so. Well, maybe "as good as available" but still crappy.
slides over both 3/8 nipples and is loose.
WTH?
Examine pkg closlier.... MADE IN CHINA
evidently they made the ID 10mm instead of 3/8
Not sure I can use it, I want no leaks and do not want to use worm clamps.
Grrrrrr...
December 3rd, 2014, 06:34 AM
#63
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: San antonio
Posts: 107
Looking for some help in finding correct part or part that fits. Ive gone to Autozone and have ordered a Brake Cylinder for a 1968 cutlass (front drum brakes) and both times these parts have arrived were wrong. Would anyone know of a place to get these items. It may be a little harder but I would rather stay away from ordering online just because I would want to compare parts. On another note wouldnt mind just ordering the kit and repacing internals but has anyone ordered replacement kit from opgi? Any help would be appreciated Thanks in advance
January 28th, 2015, 08:58 AM
#70
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Economy, Nova Scotia
Posts: 987
Incorrect Inline tube parts
Once again, Inline Tube strikes again. Don't buy their 68-72 Quarter Pillar Seals as they are too small. (INL12337) I made 3 or 4 attempts to get this rectified, but the only response I received was, I'll forward your comments to the Tech section. What a joke, gone into the abyss. No communication again. They have many great products and out of another order of seventeen items, one item, the 71-72 Hose clamp kit, (INL10487) did not contain the correct sizes. Three of them are too big. I'm at the point I don't think I'll need anything more from them so I 'll just roll over and suck it up. So for anyone considering these items, don't buy them. It's too bad they operate this way, but it's obvious they have plenty of customers and customer service is not part of their business model.
P.S. I obtained the correct sized quarter seals from Fusick.
P.S. I obtained the correct sized quarter seals from Fusick.
April 11th, 2015, 08:28 AM
#71
Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: SE MI
Posts: 328
Did you find one which is correct? I'm in need of a tray and would like one which will work without modification to the battery or tray.
April 11th, 2015, 08:34 AM
#72
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
This underhood light
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261808499274...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
looks almost right for say your Olds, but isn't
size and shape are wrong, no stamp in the backside
The part that holds the bulb is too short to hold the mercury switch.
Maybe Corvettes used the light switch to activate this lamp.
No way is this part useful
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261808499274...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
looks almost right for say your Olds, but isn't
size and shape are wrong, no stamp in the backside
The part that holds the bulb is too short to hold the mercury switch.
Maybe Corvettes used the light switch to activate this lamp.
No way is this part useful
April 11th, 2015, 12:32 PM
#73
Rocket Renegade!
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 4,386
I know this post is pretty old, but I just thought it might help to add my experience. I have the original (ratty) mats for my car, and they're EXACTLY the same size as the reproductions I got from Year One. And neither rear mat fits properly, so I think this explanation might be the case.
April 30th, 2015, 08:59 AM
#74
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 12
A few things learned during my 72 resto.
1) The manual transmission hump sold by Brothers Automotive to convert a auto car over to stick is NOT CORRECT and will ruin your mood when you try to install the shifter. The Fusick and Parts Place versions are correct.
2) The Supreme door panel pull strap escutcheons will not stay on well due to a material thickness issue
3) The repo fender peak moldings are made from low pressure castings. The mounting studs will twist off or break when you try to tighten the stamped steel nuts
1) The manual transmission hump sold by Brothers Automotive to convert a auto car over to stick is NOT CORRECT and will ruin your mood when you try to install the shifter. The Fusick and Parts Place versions are correct.
2) The Supreme door panel pull strap escutcheons will not stay on well due to a material thickness issue
3) The repo fender peak moldings are made from low pressure castings. The mounting studs will twist off or break when you try to tighten the stamped steel nuts
May 10th, 2015, 09:34 AM
#75
Registered User
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Michigan
Posts: 245
’68 Cutlass trunk drop filler panels.
I don’t know if they are all the same, but the ones I have are just awful.
One of them is missing the flange bend at the trunk floor rear step.
The stampings are not crisp, extremely wavy, bend radii are wrong, missing drain plug hole.
The chalky primer is a joke, so thin you can see through it.
Vendor was Tamraz, I have had these since last spring, just now trying to fit them.
I didn’t expect them to be perfect, but wow. Why would a company invest in a stamping die
to make a part this bad? I believe I could make a cardboard pattern, cut and form
one by hand, and it would fit ten times better than these. I may end up doing just that.
I don’t know if they are all the same, but the ones I have are just awful.
One of them is missing the flange bend at the trunk floor rear step.
The stampings are not crisp, extremely wavy, bend radii are wrong, missing drain plug hole.
The chalky primer is a joke, so thin you can see through it.
Vendor was Tamraz, I have had these since last spring, just now trying to fit them.
I didn’t expect them to be perfect, but wow. Why would a company invest in a stamping die
to make a part this bad? I believe I could make a cardboard pattern, cut and form
one by hand, and it would fit ten times better than these. I may end up doing just that.
June 7th, 2015, 05:59 PM
#76
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Water Wonderland MI.
Posts: 1,414
[QUOTE=Rocketguy;737628]Todays part that just wont work are the Fusick rear seat floor mats in this '71.
If you lay them correctly in the front they climb up the back waaaayyy to far;
MVC-907F.jpg
If you line them up corecctly in the rear they are way too long at the front;
MVC-909F.jpg
MVC-908F.jpg[/QUO I bought mats from Olds dealer many years ago and they were to big and dealer told me that the back mats were sized for full size only.
If you lay them correctly in the front they climb up the back waaaayyy to far;
MVC-907F.jpg
If you line them up corecctly in the rear they are way too long at the front;
MVC-909F.jpg
MVC-908F.jpg[/QUO I bought mats from Olds dealer many years ago and they were to big and dealer told me that the back mats were sized for full size only.
December 26th, 2015, 08:57 PM
#77
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 98
I have found that most repop engine compartment decals are crap, they won't stick and they fad the first time you wash anything, I've gotten them from several places and all seem to be the same poor quality, Fusicks 65 tail lenses fit quite poorly for $200, Legendary's carpet samples doen't match there carpet and don't get anything from NAPA it's all Chinese junk that is inferior or just plan old doesn't fit, had a bad water pump, bad blower motor, water neck that wouldn't fit, starter that flat out exploded, twilight sockets that won't fit, guess I'm an idiot for going back time after time.
There are many more but can't remember them all.
There are many more but can't remember them all.
Stockinteriors can send samples before you buy and they have a huge selection...got mine the other matches rite up...as mine is very faded
June 27th, 2016, 07:26 AM
#78
Just my experience yesterday bought a chrome combination master cylinder brake booster with proportion valve. ( resto mod not looking for factory correct) any way was replacing the Delco 11" booster and master. Quick moral to this story is the brackets need to be purchased separately they do not come with the Right Stuff brand I bought from Jegs. So I'm a skilled craftsman brackets worked on the old one so a little retro fit will have brakes today. Wrong old booster was a bitch getting off, firewall was a mess, then when I discovered the lack of brackets I proceeded to sawsall the riveted brackets off the old booster to reuse. Two blades and a hour later I had two brackets which I sanded and painted. Now looking good will have brakes by the time it's dark. Wrong they wouldn't line up, close but not quite this result after another hour getting brackets mounted ( tried both ways mount on unit first mount on fire wall first) very close so I drill out the holes real real close drill one more size bigger now I'm in danger of not enough meat on the bone or bracket for making it a nice secure fit so I add washers and that's when the real fun started still can't find that hammer I threw in my yard somewhere. The new booster has raised nipple bolts and when washered screws everything up. For $10 order the brackets mine are on the way till then no brakes no car.
June 27th, 2016, 05:51 PM
#79
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Great Lake State: SE MI
Posts: 769
Just my experience yesterday bought a chrome combination master cylinder brake booster with proportion valve. ( resto mod not looking for factory correct) any way was replacing the Delco 11" booster and master. Quick moral to this story is the brackets need to be purchased separately they do not come with the Right Stuff brand I bought from Jegs. So I'm a skilled craftsman brackets worked on the old one so a little retro fit will have brakes today. Wrong old booster was a bitch getting off, firewall was a mess, then when I discovered the lack of brackets I proceeded to sawsall the riveted brackets off the old booster to reuse. Two blades and a hour later I had two brackets which I sanded and painted. Now looking good will have brakes by the time it's dark. Wrong they wouldn't line up, close but not quite this result after another hour getting brackets mounted ( tried both ways mount on unit first mount on fire wall first) very close so I drill out the holes real real close drill one more size bigger now I'm in danger of not enough meat on the bone or bracket for making it a nice secure fit so I add washers and that's when the real fun started still can't find that hammer I threw in my yard somewhere. The new booster has raised nipple bolts and when washered screws everything up. For $10 order the brackets mine are on the way till then no brakes no car.
June 30th, 2016, 09:59 AM
#80
CH3NO2 LEARN IT BURN IT
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Land of Taxes
Posts: 4,821
Fusick mats are correct, at least for 68. Thats what the OEM mats do. I have an original OEM set out of a 68 442 vert ordered from the factory and they are exactly the same, they climb up towards the rear seat. A little added protection isnt a bad thing unless you're were expecting them to lay flat.
