Stuck Emergency parking brake
#1
Stuck Emergency parking brake
I need help. I finally got my 73 running after sitting since 03 but the Emergency parking brake is stuck. Iv'e checked around and some are telling me to try rocking the car back and forth and see if it will break loose. Did that and it's not working. I'm not sure where to look when trying to tracing this down. It's been a long time since I had to work on a car myself and may need to call a mechanic but would love to save the money and do it my self.
#2
Well, if the emergency brake is stuck, the cable is probably rusted.
The only solution is to cut the cable to release the brakes.
However, if the shoes also rusted to the drums while the car was sitting with the emergency brake on, it might get more complicated.
After cutting the cables, you should dial back the adjusters in both drums all the way, and then you can try rocking it again.
Next would be spraying penetrating oil into the drums, letting it sit for a few days, and trying to rock it again. Banging on the drums with a sledgehammer might help at this point, too.
If none of that works, then the next question is, Did you press on the brake pedal at any time?
If you did, and the brake hoses are swelled, you may have trapped pressure in the slave cylinders, holding the shoes against the drums - cut the brake hose to the rear brakes and try again as above.
If that doesn't do it, you may have to start breaking stuff.
- Eric
The only solution is to cut the cable to release the brakes.
However, if the shoes also rusted to the drums while the car was sitting with the emergency brake on, it might get more complicated.
After cutting the cables, you should dial back the adjusters in both drums all the way, and then you can try rocking it again.
Next would be spraying penetrating oil into the drums, letting it sit for a few days, and trying to rock it again. Banging on the drums with a sledgehammer might help at this point, too.
If none of that works, then the next question is, Did you press on the brake pedal at any time?
If you did, and the brake hoses are swelled, you may have trapped pressure in the slave cylinders, holding the shoes against the drums - cut the brake hose to the rear brakes and try again as above.
If that doesn't do it, you may have to start breaking stuff.
- Eric
#3
I disagree with cutting the cables - back-off the center adjuster and squirt EVERYTHING with a good quality penatrating oil. Keep it wet for a couple days, and try to work them, individually, from under the car.
Might need some heat, but a butane torch should get it hot enough.
Then the above would apply.
Might need some heat, but a butane torch should get it hot enough.
Then the above would apply.
Last edited by Rickman48; November 3rd, 2012 at 10:31 AM.
#4
Before cutting anything, look under the car. Is the e-brake cable tight or loose? If loose, that's NOT the problem. If it's tight, back off on the adjusting nut at the end of the front cable, under the car. This will remove any tension in the cable.
If backing off the adjusting nut slackens the cable but the wheels still don't turn, the problem is either a rusted cable coming out of one of the back wheels or the shoes are rusted to the drum. Jack up the rear of the car and determine if at least one of the wheels can turn (assuming it is not posi). If only one is seized, your problem is cut in half. You need to back off the adjuster screw, which requires using a small screwdriver to push the ratchet mechanism off the star wheel while turning the wheel with an adjuster spoon. Yes, you'll need to poke both tools through the small slot in the backing plate at once. The edge of the star wheel closest to the backing plate needs to be pushed downward.
If you can't do this, or if the adjuster is rusted, you'll need to cut the heads off the two pins that hold the brake shoes to the backing plate. I use an air grinder to do this, but an electric works also. Once the pins are cut (new ones come in any brake hardware kit) you should be able to work the drum off.
If backing off the adjusting nut slackens the cable but the wheels still don't turn, the problem is either a rusted cable coming out of one of the back wheels or the shoes are rusted to the drum. Jack up the rear of the car and determine if at least one of the wheels can turn (assuming it is not posi). If only one is seized, your problem is cut in half. You need to back off the adjuster screw, which requires using a small screwdriver to push the ratchet mechanism off the star wheel while turning the wheel with an adjuster spoon. Yes, you'll need to poke both tools through the small slot in the backing plate at once. The edge of the star wheel closest to the backing plate needs to be pushed downward.
If you can't do this, or if the adjuster is rusted, you'll need to cut the heads off the two pins that hold the brake shoes to the backing plate. I use an air grinder to do this, but an electric works also. Once the pins are cut (new ones come in any brake hardware kit) you should be able to work the drum off.
#5
My '97 Nissan truck (yeah, I know it is not an Olds!) had this precise problem. The solution was to get under it and free up the "Y"bracket where the E-brake cable from the cab of the truck joins up with the individual rear wheel cables. Once that was accomplished the brakes released and have worked normally.
#6
Thanks everybody for the help. I did loosen the emergency brake cable and had plenty of slack but it's still stuck. I did pull off back driver side brake hub and the brakes are not rusted. I should have pulled the other tire to check it but time ran out and it got to dark. Gonna give it it another try on sunday then maybe call someone for help. Getting alittle too old to be crawling under the car and I'm sure I'm gonna feel it tomorrow. This site is great and very happy for the fast response from everyone. Again thanks.
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