75 88 conv top dead
#3
the owner's manual says it is on a 40 amp breaker at the fuse block that also controls things I do not have like p seats, tailgate, p windows
can't even get to the motor if it is behind the back seat, no tools to even look
can't even get to the motor if it is behind the back seat, no tools to even look
#4
Do you not have the '75 body manual? Now'd be the time to get it. I had a '75 Delta 88 convertible, but never had a problem with the top. To get at the top motor, though, I'm pretty sure you'll have to remove the rear seat back. That's easier to do if you remove the rear seat bottom first. To get the seat bottom out, you push back on it, fairly hard, and slightly up. To get the seat back out, I'm pretty sure you grasp it at the bottom and push it up.
With these out, you could at least disconnect the power lead to the motor and check to see if any power gets to it when the top switch on the dash is moved.
With these out, you could at least disconnect the power lead to the motor and check to see if any power gets to it when the top switch on the dash is moved.
#5
thanks, yeah I do not have a body manual, thought I would get by with 76 but no conv in 76 not a one!
the rear seat back is held in by 2 bolts also holding the seatbelt retractors, and it is a star tool I believe (had it all apart once, found the build sheet)
over my head & no tools so I hope I can get it looked at this week, it's registered for 2 shows next month
and today was so nice out
oh well
the rear seat back is held in by 2 bolts also holding the seatbelt retractors, and it is a star tool I believe (had it all apart once, found the build sheet)
over my head & no tools so I hope I can get it looked at this week, it's registered for 2 shows next month
and today was so nice out
oh well
#7
#8
The 71-75 full size cars with the "X-frame" top are electrically driven with cables. They do not use a hydraulic pump. As noted, the info on convertible tops, power windows. power seats, etc is in the Fisher Body Manual, which you need in addition to the Chassis Service Manual.
#9
thanks Joe, thought I could get by with the 76 book but no conv in 76 all I can see from the trunk is the blue plastic drive cable jackets, gotta get it in the shop to get it fixed, not the end of the world, just wonder why the wagon same switch same day started acting up. Hate to think about the Toro (although neither of the Toro's switches work anyway (antenna and rear defog)
wtfe
wtfe
#10
very interesting that the manual is across the board brands-wise in interchange-abilty never saw that before!!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_4538wt_940
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...#ht_4538wt_940
033-1.jpg
034-1.jpg
#11
For my 1971 Royale convertible there was a seperate Fisher Body service manual "Folding top Supplement." About a 40 page booklet just about the top set-up. I am pretty sure Hydro-electric top in Florida sells this manuel. I would look for an electrical problem. It's been about 5 years since I redid mine. As I recall the top motor has rubber mounting gromments. There is a ground wire screwed into the package tray metal support. Maybe a ground problem? Also a lot of connections to the relay next to the motor to check for corrosion. Good luck. Ken
#12
thanks a lot Ken, got the Fisher body manual coming from eBay, now I will look for a conv top supplement, no point taking it in till I get the books I guess. Hydro Electric shipping manual today, now I have to get the parts book bound so I can use it and find the switch p/n
Last edited by jeffreyalman; February 22nd, 2010 at 05:21 AM.
#13
Start with the switch, then the relay. Those tops are why I doubt I'll ever have another 71-75 FS ragtop.
Once I got rid of the factory type switch and ran it off a SPDT switch from Radio Shack, I didn't have near as much trouble out of my 73. By that point I didn't care if it didn't match the other switches- I'd had it with the thing failing in an emergency (read sudden downpour). I had to sit under an overpass for nearly an hour once because the top wouldn't raise. It worked fine in DOWN and worked fine both ways with the switch jumpered.
Might add that I replaced the factory switch 3x while I owned that car- the last one I bought was supposedly the last NOS one in the dealer parts network.
Once I got rid of the factory type switch and ran it off a SPDT switch from Radio Shack, I didn't have near as much trouble out of my 73. By that point I didn't care if it didn't match the other switches- I'd had it with the thing failing in an emergency (read sudden downpour). I had to sit under an overpass for nearly an hour once because the top wouldn't raise. It worked fine in DOWN and worked fine both ways with the switch jumpered.
Might add that I replaced the factory switch 3x while I owned that car- the last one I bought was supposedly the last NOS one in the dealer parts network.
Last edited by rocketraider; February 22nd, 2010 at 07:06 AM.
#14
thanks Glenn I think I will install something like this in both gloveboxes - no big deal, just getting to the switches I can not do and I wanted to put the conv in AACA meet 3/6 hope my mechanic can see me this Sat
#15
If everything was working OK before it sat I would think it is a bad connection. My top didn't work when I dragged her off a hill in Pa. The former owner thought he could force it down when it quit working. When that didn't work he forced it back up and then the fuel line leaked he parked it. It was a bit of a challenge and I put quite a few new and used parts in it but it now is smooth and quiet now. Getting the "transmissions" "timed" are important. They are run by the short speedometer type cables. I put new bushings and pins then a new top. I baby it going up and down never forcing or running it to the limits. I put it down almost everytime the car is driven but I always put it up when I come home. That booklet will tell u to always latch the pass-side first when putting the top up. I don't know why this is important but I follow those instructions. Good luck, Ken
#16
One of the pin holes in the header is elongated, the other is round. Can't remember which side is which.
The scissor tops are a PITA any way you look at them. Shame such nice cars got saddled with it.
The scissor tops are a PITA any way you look at them. Shame such nice cars got saddled with it.
#17
how hard is it to access the switch? I have always heard scissor tops are a PITA but I have never had trouble before, now my old bird, THAT was trouble (66) wtf
Last edited by jeffreyalman; February 22nd, 2010 at 02:53 PM.
#18
well I dug out the old shop manual and decided to play a trick... looked up rear defog switch to see how it comes out (conv top is in the body manual, on the way)
I got the applique off but was afraid to "pry out the switch with a screwdriver" like the manual says
meanwhile, in the dark and quiet garage, the interior lights dim and I hear a faint click from the rear in either up or down pos (and the tiniest flicker of spark from the switch - remember, it's dark in there)
relay?????
I got the applique off but was afraid to "pry out the switch with a screwdriver" like the manual says
meanwhile, in the dark and quiet garage, the interior lights dim and I hear a faint click from the rear in either up or down pos (and the tiniest flicker of spark from the switch - remember, it's dark in there)
relay?????
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