How should I De-grease this Engine? Valve Cover Gasket recommendation
#1
How should I De-grease this Engine? Valve Cover Gasket recommendation
Before I replace the valve cover gaskets, I want to De-grease this 350-2BBL engine.
Would like to hear your suggestions on what cleaning product to use and if I should fire up the pressure washer. Also, should I keep the carb during cleaning or should remove it & block off the intake? Would like to hear any and all tips. Thanks
Also, what are some good valve cover gaskets (just edited to add gaskets) to use for this 350? This car does not get driven very much. Car runs and drives fine so not planning on doing any restoration. Thank you in advance.
Would like to hear your suggestions on what cleaning product to use and if I should fire up the pressure washer. Also, should I keep the carb during cleaning or should remove it & block off the intake? Would like to hear any and all tips. Thanks
Also, what are some good valve cover gaskets (just edited to add gaskets) to use for this 350? This car does not get driven very much. Car runs and drives fine so not planning on doing any restoration. Thank you in advance.
Last edited by Texas442; February 20th, 2017 at 11:56 AM.
#3
I used GUNK degreaser product which worked well
Are you wanting Chrome valve covers? Aluminium? NOS stock? Do you not like the factory gold ones on it now?
Eric
Are you wanting Chrome valve covers? Aluminium? NOS stock? Do you not like the factory gold ones on it now?
Eric
Last edited by 76olds; February 20th, 2017 at 11:49 AM.
#4
#6
There are two versions of rubber gaskets, and I used the thicker ones:
VS13403R -- 3/32" thick rubber
VS50359R -- 11/64" thick rubber
#7
I have found that when I use synthetic oil I get some seepage with cork gaskets. I have gone back to dino oil because of this and zinc content in the oil I use. No problems as of now....Tedd
#8
I have come to love the thicker rubber gaskets. They are the first ones that never leaked on me, but that could also be because I used a torque wrench on the valve cover bolts for the first time ever when I installed them.
There are two versions of rubber gaskets, and I used the thicker ones:
VS13403R -- 3/32" thick rubber
VS50359R -- 11/64" thick rubber
There are two versions of rubber gaskets, and I used the thicker ones:
VS13403R -- 3/32" thick rubber
VS50359R -- 11/64" thick rubber
#9
Clean it first
Take your degreaser and some plastic ( to cover your fenders, grill and cowl.) Go to the car wash. The motor will be warm. Spray on the foam cleaner and let sit some. Spray off or add soap then spray off cleaner being careful not to let overspray get on paint. Add a few more quarters and rinse it well then pull off plastic and wash car with hood closed to be sure.
#10
I have used Gunk for years and always have good results. The procedure outlined by Gary above should work very well. I found some valve cover gaskets for my 54 what were rubber with a steel insert in the middle and they are reusable. I think I found them on ebay. They were not brand I recognized like Felpro. I am very satisfied with them. Try looking on ebay or maybe Rockauto.
#11
Take your degreaser and some plastic ( to cover your fenders, grill and cowl.) Go to the car wash. The motor will be warm. Spray on the foam cleaner and let sit some. Spray off or add soap then spray off cleaner being careful not to let overspray get on paint. Add a few more quarters and rinse it well then pull off plastic and wash car with hood closed to be sure.
#12
Another vote for GUNK - the strong stuff with the kerosene in it.
And another vote for the thick rubber gaskets.
I would avoid using a pressure washer on any mechanical device, as the pressure will drive grit into any bearings or other moving parts that have any sort of an opening.
- Eric
And another vote for the thick rubber gaskets.
I would avoid using a pressure washer on any mechanical device, as the pressure will drive grit into any bearings or other moving parts that have any sort of an opening.
- Eric
#13
#15
I got Fel-Pro rubber valve cover gaskets from O'Reilly's. No leaks, durable.
I do not use high pressure on any engine, asking for trouble. I vote lots of Gunk and lots of time on your part. Then low pressure water with plastic bags over distributor or just avoid it.
I do not use high pressure on any engine, asking for trouble. I vote lots of Gunk and lots of time on your part. Then low pressure water with plastic bags over distributor or just avoid it.
#16
I did cork Fel Pros on my old man's Chevy 350 in his Corvette two years ago. No leaks, and the Chevies only have 4 bolts and the little spreader things, not tons of bolts like an Olds. It was such an original car that I putty-knifed the old adhesive off, and Ivory-soap and toothbrushed the grime off, then put it back on. Be sure to set the covers on something flat, weighted, to set the glue on the gaskets to the covers.
#19
Oven cleaner is mostly Lye (sodium hydroxide). I'm not sure how environmentally friendly that is and as mentioned above eats aluminum at a alarming rate and not so good on paint if left long enough... Tedd
#20
Ali, this is what I use. It was 1st sold by Castrol then changed hands and
may be called Purple Power now. Wally World may carry it, but I know Orileys
does too. I use a spray bottle and a brush and have never had a problem
power washing an engine. Just cover the carb and try not to spray the dist.
may be called Purple Power now. Wally World may carry it, but I know Orileys
does too. I use a spray bottle and a brush and have never had a problem
power washing an engine. Just cover the carb and try not to spray the dist.
#21
I just A$$umed oven cleaner was environmentally friendly. After all, it's made to clean an oven in which food is cooked.
#22
Munches it right iup. If you spray it on aluminum foil, the foil will just disappear.
It is. Lye may dissolve aluminum, your skin, and pretty much any other organic matter, but that's just at high concentrations. It's also present in low concentrations in many common medicines, and in the natural environment. Once it's diluted, it's harmless, unlike the phosphates that used to be used in laundry detergents, which caused biological imbalances in water bodies, or DDT, which caused defects in the shells of birds' eggs.
- Eric
It is. Lye may dissolve aluminum, your skin, and pretty much any other organic matter, but that's just at high concentrations. It's also present in low concentrations in many common medicines, and in the natural environment. Once it's diluted, it's harmless, unlike the phosphates that used to be used in laundry detergents, which caused biological imbalances in water bodies, or DDT, which caused defects in the shells of birds' eggs.
- Eric
#24
When you are using a lye product, and your fingers feel slippery, that's your skin dissolving.
You can get rid of the feeling by rinsing with a lot of water, for a few minutes, or immediately, but rinsing with vinegar to stop the reaction.
- Eric
You can get rid of the feeling by rinsing with a lot of water, for a few minutes, or immediately, but rinsing with vinegar to stop the reaction.
- Eric
#25
Sodium hydroxide is the main ingredient in bluing salts (for bluing guns) and one doesn't drop a gun in the salts that contains any aluminum at all or it won't be there when you pull the gun out .
I still use simple green with a brush when detailing a engine followed by the careful use of a pressure washer....Tedd
I still use simple green with a brush when detailing a engine followed by the careful use of a pressure washer....Tedd
#26
#28
You can start with something like Simple Green, but any All Purpose Cleaner (APC) should work. For the stubborn stuff, like the stuff that seemed 2-3 feet thick on my 77 350 with 148K, I had good luck with Gunk. It worked much faster in the end.
I would not recommend using high pressure water at all. You will force water where you do not want it. Trust me. Use the regular hose.
I would not recommend using high pressure water at all. You will force water where you do not want it. Trust me. Use the regular hose.
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