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		<title>ClassicOldsmobile.com - Electrical</title>
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		<lastBuildDate>Fri, 03 Sep 2010 06:12:41 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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			<title>ClassicOldsmobile.com - Electrical</title>
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			<title>Low Beams Good, High Beams Bad</title>
			<link>http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/26495-low-beams-good-high-beams-bad.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 19:26:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>On my 62 Starfire, I just installed the front grill and headlights. Low beam, both outside light are fine. Hit high beam switch, kills low beam and...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>On my 62 Starfire, I just installed the front grill and headlights. Low beam, both outside light are fine. Hit high beam switch, kills low beam and high beam does not light on the right side. Left side is OK. Head light switch and headlights are new, both ground wires on either side are connected to chassis sheetmetal.</div>

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			<category domain="http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>tpawlik</dc:creator>
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			<title>62 Starfire Red Hot Resistor</title>
			<link>http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/26485-62-starfire-red-hot-resistor.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 02 Sep 2010 11:41:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>There is a yellow wire that comes from the ignition switch that is supposed to have a length of resistance wire in it to drop the voltage from 12V to...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>There is a yellow wire that comes from the ignition switch that is supposed to have a length of resistance wire in it to drop the voltage from 12V to 6 or 7V to the hot side of the coil in the RUN position. I installed a 1.6 ohm ballast resistor because I did not see the resistance wire when I rebuilt the wiring harness. Last night I was working on some interior issues and had the hood up and the key on. The ballast resistor was glowing bright red and the ceramic housing broke in two. The yellow wire coming from the switch was not hot.<br />
 Before I had the ballast resistor in line to the coil, the original yellow wire burned up and damaged the wiring harness when the trim shop left the key on overnight. It only damaged a few wires in the engine compartment and I replaced those. I have the battery disconnected.<br />
Help, I need Help!!!<br />
Thanks.</div>

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			<category domain="http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>tpawlik</dc:creator>
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			<title>bouncing gas guage</title>
			<link>http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/26470-bouncing-gas-guage.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 01 Sep 2010 22:27:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>my gas guage in my 72 442 is constantly moving while i am driving making it hard to tell how much gas is left. this is a rally pac i dont know if...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>my gas guage in my 72 442 is constantly moving while i am driving making it hard to tell how much gas is left. this is a rally pac i dont know if this means anything any help would be great thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>joeolds</dc:creator>
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			<title><![CDATA[Wiper motor for '61 Olds]]></title>
			<link>http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/26436-wiper-motor-61-olds.html</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 31 Aug 2010 21:03:50 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Does anyone sell a new electric 2spd wiper motor for a '61 Olds Starfire or a good used one? All I really need is a new pair of brushes. Does anyone...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Does anyone sell a new electric 2spd wiper motor for a '61 Olds Starfire or a good used one? All I really need is a new pair of brushes. Does anyone sell the brushes by themselves? thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>Starfire1961</dc:creator>
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			<title>68 442 gauge conversion</title>
			<link>http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/26353-68-442-gauge-conversion.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 29 Aug 2010 23:42:02 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Okay I got the gauges,got the wiring tips looked under the dash and HOLY DIVER is it compact up there! Is there some tips to help me do this? Or even...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Okay I got the gauges,got the wiring tips looked under the dash and HOLY DIVER is it compact up there! Is there some tips to help me do this? Or even a full instruction?  Thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>phukinartie</dc:creator>
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			<title>Can Anyone Tell What Belongs in These Cutouts?</title>
			<link>http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/26338-can-anyone-tell-what-belongs-these-cutouts.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 29 Aug 2010 14:39:11 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Can anyone tell me what belongs in the 2 cutouts near the power top switch on my 68 Cutlass S convertible? The car is highly optioned, so I figure...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Can anyone tell me what belongs in the 2 cutouts near the power top switch on my 68 Cutlass S convertible? The car is highly optioned, so I figure it's likely for switches or something. The cutouts look factory cut.<br />
 <br />
Thank You,<br />
Tom</div>


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			<category domain="http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>TRW</dc:creator>
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			<title>interior lites flicker</title>
			<link>http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/26330-interior-lites-flicker.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 29 Aug 2010 04:05:01 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>hey guys my 72 cutlass s interior lites flicker when either door is opened with the engine running, but are steady with engine off. i have checked...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hey guys my 72 cutlass s interior lites flicker when either door is opened with the engine running, but are steady with engine off. i have checked around for good ground at battery to block &amp; block to fire wall strap to voltage regulator base good clean &amp; tight.  any thoughts? thanks  BILL</div>

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			<category domain="http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>fitter bill</dc:creator>
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			<title>Dead 71 Supreme</title>
			<link>http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/26318-dead-71-supreme.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 28 Aug 2010 22:00:16 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>*So I start up my 71 Supreme hardtop project car this morning. Starts up and runs fine, choke works well and everything. I have this vehicle on the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><b>So I start up my 71 Supreme hardtop project car this morning. Starts up and runs fine, choke works well and everything. I have this vehicle on the road but do not drive it much. I take it to have my yearly NY state inspection and get there with no problems. I go to restart the car and it stalls.Try to start it again get nothing. I open the hood and the negative battery terminal is sparking! Not good! I broke the terminal off as it was melting anyway. Something is hot when I touch the terminal to the battery it sparks big time. Any ideas out there? I had road service tow the car home to figure it out there. I am thinking the starter solenoid is sticking, but it's a new Duralast reman starter and cables as well as the battery too! Possibly could it be the ignition switch open as well at the columns base? Whatever input you gurus can give me I would greatly appreciate! Thanks!:confused:</b></div>

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			<category domain="http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>DarrylJ</dc:creator>
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			<title>Help needed with rallye pack conversion</title>
			<link>http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/26301-help-needed-rallye-pack-conversion.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 27 Aug 2010 23:43:20 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>*Help needed......I am converting a 1972 442 from idiot lights to a Rallye Pac. Does anyone have the diagram of wires that need to be switched in the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div><b><i>Help needed......I am converting a 1972 442 from idiot lights to a Rallye Pac. Does anyone have the diagram of wires that need to be switched in the harness???? I also understand there is some green wire on the column that has to be cut. Any help would be much appreciated......................The 442Guy:):):). <a href="mailto:j70442@comcast.net">j70442@comcast.net</a>. </i></b></div>

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			<category domain="http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>the442guy</dc:creator>
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			<title>1970 Cutlass Electrical Problems</title>
			<link>http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/26203-1970-cutlass-electrical-problems.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 25 Aug 2010 15:51:43 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I recently acquired a 1970 Cutlass. The car has an electrical problem that became known when the dual electric fans quit working and the engine...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I recently acquired a 1970 Cutlass. The car has an electrical problem that became known when the dual electric fans quit working and the engine overheated.  I discovered the “Bat” wire leading to the Delco 10 SI alternator shorted itself against the engine block. The alternator’s R and F (1 and 2) terminals were spliced together and connected directly to the battery.  I think the car has an original external voltage regulator that was bypassed when the Delco 10SI alternator was installed, but I’m not sure (see picture below). Also, a wire harness, leading from the back of the fuse block, runs along the left side of the engine compartment, it contains the wires for the head lamps, as well as some others. The harness has about six wires cut near the battery (located on the driver side). Of the wires that were cut, two red wires were spliced together and attached to the battery terminal. These wires appear to bring power to the fuse block. I imagine the cut wires may belong to the external voltage regulator, but I’m not sure. Can anyone tell me what the two red wires spliced together and attached to the battery are for? And what are the other wires for? (see picture of wires) <br />
<br />
<img src="http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/attachments/electrical/19569d1282750750-1970-cutlass-electrical-problems-voltage-reg.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
<br />
<img src="http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/attachments/electrical/19570d1282750750-1970-cutlass-electrical-problems-wire-harness.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
<br />
 Also, when confronted with installing the new alternator, I need to decide how to hook up the two alternator terminals. I would like to run the #1 terminal wire through the original GEN light wire, but I don’t know how to find the wire. In fact, the red GEN light illuminates when the key is switched on and the engine is not running and I have no idea where it’s getting its power, or ground for that matter. Can anyone give me some insight on how the original electrical wiring was set up and what those cut wires are for?</div>


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			<category domain="http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>bpnoel</dc:creator>
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			<title>63 F-85 wiring diagram</title>
			<link>http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/26083-63-f-85-wiring-diagram.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 22 Aug 2010 04:51:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Ive got some issues with my electrical in my ride, after reasembling it after paint, my front marker lights dont work, also my license plate, dome,...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Ive got some issues with my electrical in my ride, after reasembling it after paint, my front marker lights dont work, also my license plate, dome, rear opera lights also dont work.  Seems that it might be a wiring issue.  Either way, Id like to just rewire the whole thing, and call it a day.<br />
<br />
any help on where to find this info is much appreciated.</div>

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			<category domain="http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>lowrico</dc:creator>
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			<title>Crazy electrical problem...rear headlamp/turn signal issue</title>
			<link>http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/26072-crazy-electrical-problem-rear-headlamp-turn-signal-issue.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Aug 2010 21:44:33 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>All, 
When I turn my headlamps on, they are on the bright filament in my taillight bulbs. When I turn on either turn signal or hit the brakes, the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>All,<br />
When I turn my headlamps on, they are on the bright filament in my taillight bulbs. When I turn on either turn signal or hit the brakes, the dim filament comes on. This is for a 71 Cutlass S and it happens on all the sockets except one of the originals.<br />
 <br />
I have a 70 Olds 98 also, and when I checked that car it was the exact opposite. The turn signal/brake lights light the bright filament, and the headlamp turns on the dim filament. Which makes sense, because if you have your headlamps on and hit the brakes,  you want the brake light to come on which leads me to believe that my Cutlass somehow got the turn/brake signal socket wires switched.<br />
 <br />
I checked all the sockets on my Cutty. 2 are original and two have been replaced. But the funny part is the ones displaying the above behavior are one of the replacement sockets and 2 of the originals. Now I can understand someone wiring the replacement lamps wrong...but to have the originals burn the incorrect filament as well as the replacements is downright mind boggling to me. Only thing I can think of is something happened in that socket to cause the wrong filament to burn but I am not sure.<br />
 <br />
At any rate if I switch the wires on ALL the sockets (The originals as well as the replacements) I'm pretty sure the issue will clear itself up. As a matter of fact I already switched the wires on 3 of the sockets, only got one more to go and the 3 I changed already are fine.<br />
 <br />
Ill be back in 15 mins that should be long enough to change the wires onthis last one.<br />
 <br />
Frustrated in BaileysCrossroads</div>

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			<category domain="http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>jpaulwhite</dc:creator>
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			<title><![CDATA['63 F-85 relay on passenger fenderwell]]></title>
			<link>http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/26066-63-f-85-relay-passenger-fenderwell.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Aug 2010 17:48:07 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>What is the relay on the passenger fenderwell closer to the firewall than the bumper? I know the horn relay/tie point. This one is the one closer to...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>What is the relay on the passenger fenderwell closer to the firewall than the bumper? I know the horn relay/tie point. This one is the one closer to the firewall. Thinking it needs replaced. It sure is making a hell of a racket.<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance for any help identifying this guy.</div>

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			<category domain="http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>slodat</dc:creator>
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			<title><![CDATA["Dead in the water"]]></title>
			<link>http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/26065-dead-water.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Aug 2010 17:18:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>So I fired up my 71 442 conv. last weekend and drove around the neighborhood a little. After it ran I went to start it and got nothing. I found the...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>So I fired up my 71 442 conv. last weekend and drove around the neighborhood a little. After it ran I went to start it and got nothing. I found the little red wire that goes from the + terminal on bat to the relay came off so I re connected it and started up.<br />
I went out today to run it again and change oil and I have completely nothing again just like when that wire fell off. I checked wire again and continuity and both are good. I moved through PRNDSL while trying to start and still nothing.<br />
I left my volt meter at work so I really cant  do any real diagnostics except for continuity. I have no dummy lights, lights or horn. I put the battery in last year and it was running last weekend.<br />
Any ideas where to start? I checked all fuses too. I'll try jumping later just to see if the battery is completely dead? I also have no radio or interior lights.<br />
Any of you guys and girls feel free to chime in.<br />
Thanks</div>

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			<category domain="http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>scrappie</dc:creator>
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			<title>Light Switch</title>
			<link>http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/26060-light-switch.html</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 21 Aug 2010 09:52:29 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I have a 72 Olds 442.  When i connect my battery, the interior lights, fog lights, and brake lights tend to stay on even with the light switch off,...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I have a 72 Olds 442.  When i connect my battery, the interior lights, fog lights, and brake lights tend to stay on even with the light switch off, and no foot on the brake pedal. The interior lights doesn't dim either when I try to dim them. I'm guessing its in the light switch.  What could be the problem?</div>

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			<category domain="http://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/electrical/">Electrical</category>
			<dc:creator>dre</dc:creator>
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