67 Delta 88 blower motor resistor
#1
67 Delta 88 blower motor resistor
I have a 67 Delta holiday edition that I'm tring to use as an every day car but this morning when I started the car the blower was working but then quit. found the fuse was blown, replaced it and it blew again. I think i know a way to test the blower motor and then I'll check the resistor (either way the resistor is probably fried) but when I started searching online for a resistor, I'm not finding one
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks
#3
Because that's the part I can't get No seriously, i've had 2 other cars (newer) with crappy blower motors that would freeze up every other winter or so and it always fried the resistor when it did. I'm just guessing, it was so cold out today I didn't want to remove it to see.
I've found replacement lower motors available, but no resistors.
I've found replacement lower motors available, but no resistors.
#6
You could remove the resistor and look at it, or you could check its continuity with an ohmmeter.
At this point, we really have no idea what produced the excessive current draw that blew two fuses.
By the way, is your car A/C or heat-only?
- Eric
At this point, we really have no idea what produced the excessive current draw that blew two fuses.
By the way, is your car A/C or heat-only?
- Eric
#7
Heat only, i will have to look at the resistor. It's just bugging me that I can't find one, maybe i won't need one.
#8
The resistor controls the blower motor speeds other than high speed, it is not part of the high speed circuit. It usually has two or three circuits/resistors so it is unlikely that they are all bad. Pull it out and check as previously suggested. The resistors do not fail that often.
The fuse that I am familiar with only affects high speed. What amperage fuse blew? What speeds did the blower work on if any? Where was the fuse located?
The inline fuse holders frequently failed due to heat from bad connections.
Good luck!!!
The fuse that I am familiar with only affects high speed. What amperage fuse blew? What speeds did the blower work on if any? Where was the fuse located?
The inline fuse holders frequently failed due to heat from bad connections.
Good luck!!!
#10
The resistor controls the blower motor speeds other than high speed, it is not part of the high speed circuit. It usually has two or three circuits/resistors so it is unlikely that they are all bad. Pull it out and check as previously suggested. The resistors do not fail that often.
The fuse that I am familiar with only affects high speed. What amperage fuse blew? What speeds did the blower work on if any? Where was the fuse located?
The inline fuse holders frequently failed due to heat from bad connections.
Good luck!!!
The fuse that I am familiar with only affects high speed. What amperage fuse blew? What speeds did the blower work on if any? Where was the fuse located?
The inline fuse holders frequently failed due to heat from bad connections.
Good luck!!!
#11
First of all, I don't know what kind of a "manual" you have, but if you don't have the Chassis Service Manual and the Fisher Body Manual, then you don't have a manual.
Original copies of both are easily obtainable on eBay, and are highly recommended.
Digital copies can be downloaded immediately from the Auto History Preservation Society after payment of a $10 "library card" fee.
There is one fuse for the heat-only blower, as you have discovered, and the fact that it keeps blowing probably indicates that you have a short to ground somewhere in your system. Where that is is up to you to discover.
Here is the wiring schematic for your blower:
The Brown wire goes from that fuse in the fuse block to the On/Off switch in the heater control, from there, the Yellow wire goes to the speed switch to provide power for the Medium and High speeds, and to the resistor for the constant Low speed, the Blue wire connects the speed switch to the resistor for the Medium speed, and the Orange wire connects to the speed switch and resistor for the High speed, and from the resistor to the motor for all motor speeds.
Get out your test light and jumpers.
- Eric
Original copies of both are easily obtainable on eBay, and are highly recommended.
Digital copies can be downloaded immediately from the Auto History Preservation Society after payment of a $10 "library card" fee.
There is one fuse for the heat-only blower, as you have discovered, and the fact that it keeps blowing probably indicates that you have a short to ground somewhere in your system. Where that is is up to you to discover.
Here is the wiring schematic for your blower:
The Brown wire goes from that fuse in the fuse block to the On/Off switch in the heater control, from there, the Yellow wire goes to the speed switch to provide power for the Medium and High speeds, and to the resistor for the constant Low speed, the Blue wire connects the speed switch to the resistor for the Medium speed, and the Orange wire connects to the speed switch and resistor for the High speed, and from the resistor to the motor for all motor speeds.
Get out your test light and jumpers.
- Eric
#12
The resistor pack has one resistor for each speed except high, which uses 12V. So if you have a three speed fan, it will have two resistors, one for low and one for medium. You could have a bad connection at the resistor plug, or a short cct. where a bare wire is rubbing on metal.
#13
He's almost definitely got a short.
If he had a motor that was tight and drawing too much current, it could also do this, but probably wouldn't blow the fuse on the Low speed.
- Eric
#14
I appreciate you guys attempt to trouble shoot my problem, though I only ask for info on where to possibly get a part.
I have the manual MDchanic is talking about and it's an awful excuse for a maintenance manual (supposed to be the original shop manual?), the old Chiltons manuals my dad had when i was a kid were much better and covered more than one vehicle.
If we're going to trouble shoot my problem without laying hands on the car (it's too damn cold to be to there chasing wires at the moment) here's my problem with the short circuit theory: this is usually the result someone messing around with the wiring or a wire in a high vibration area, ect... much less likely than the possibility that a resistor coil touching a grounded surface or something like that (yeah that's still a bit of a stretch).
The thing is (I've only seen this on automotive forums), I ask a simple question and everyone thinks i want them to diagnose my problem from 3000 miles away. Even if it's not the resistor, I'd still like to know where to get one or if it's impossible to get one, but all i'm getting is more questions and people trying to diagnose the problem (sugar bear's "info" makes no sense at all for this car), I don't know how you all manage to hang out in a forum environment like this and get such high post counts.
So now that I've pissed in your corn flakes I'll go away not not come back.
I have the manual MDchanic is talking about and it's an awful excuse for a maintenance manual (supposed to be the original shop manual?), the old Chiltons manuals my dad had when i was a kid were much better and covered more than one vehicle.
If we're going to trouble shoot my problem without laying hands on the car (it's too damn cold to be to there chasing wires at the moment) here's my problem with the short circuit theory: this is usually the result someone messing around with the wiring or a wire in a high vibration area, ect... much less likely than the possibility that a resistor coil touching a grounded surface or something like that (yeah that's still a bit of a stretch).
The thing is (I've only seen this on automotive forums), I ask a simple question and everyone thinks i want them to diagnose my problem from 3000 miles away. Even if it's not the resistor, I'd still like to know where to get one or if it's impossible to get one, but all i'm getting is more questions and people trying to diagnose the problem (sugar bear's "info" makes no sense at all for this car), I don't know how you all manage to hang out in a forum environment like this and get such high post counts.
So now that I've pissed in your corn flakes I'll go away not not come back.
#16
Bye.
If you think a Chilton from the era is better then a factory manual, your mistaken. Factory manuals just take a little more searching but are much more detailed. It should show where your resister is located. My 65 is easy to get at below the dash. A visual inspection should show if it is bad.
These guys are just trying to help diagnose without doing the parts replacing solution. You don't want comments you think you don't need then they are easy to ignore without answering the way you did.
You want to go away? Speaking strictly for myself, I do not GAFF.
If you think a Chilton from the era is better then a factory manual, your mistaken. Factory manuals just take a little more searching but are much more detailed. It should show where your resister is located. My 65 is easy to get at below the dash. A visual inspection should show if it is bad.
These guys are just trying to help diagnose without doing the parts replacing solution. You don't want comments you think you don't need then they are easy to ignore without answering the way you did.
You want to go away? Speaking strictly for myself, I do not GAFF.
#17
The manual has a section on "Heater Resistor" (page 1-5) and all it says is "The heater resistor is mounted on the heater case with two sheet metal screws. To remove, disconnect wiring connector and remove attaching screws. To install resistor, reverse removal procedure."
It certainly sounds simple enough, but as is often the case, the problem is knowing where the part in question is actually located. The manual indicates "Figure 1-8" when talking about the heater resistor, but Figure 1-8 is just an exploded view of the entire heater system. Useful for seeing how things go together and where the screws are, but there is no diagram or arrow pointing at or anything about the resistor itself. It's easy enough to imagine where it could be on top of the heater case, but if a description of "heater resistor" is actually going to reference a figure, shouldn't the heater resistor actually be shown in that figure? One would think.
Chassis service manuals are always held up as the Holy Grail or last word in vehicle maintenance literature, and this is true most of the time. But not all the time. This isn't the first time I've come across a situation where the CSM, whether it's the '67 manual or another year's manual, left a little something to be desired about some particular issuue.
#18
Having said the above, the '67 CSM is a little better in regard to the resistor when it comes to the Cutlasses. The pages, figure, and description I mentioned above are in the "52 through 86 series" (full-size cars) section of the CSM. In the "33 through 38 series" (A-bodies), there is a section on heaters in those cars, and the relevant figure in that section (Figure 1-15 on page 1-8), which shows the exploded view of the heater system, actually does show and have an arrow pointing at the heater resistor.
I would consider this an oversight on the part of the writers of the CSM to leave this out of the full-size car section. It's a minor omission, but it's an omission nonetheless.
I would consider this an oversight on the part of the writers of the CSM to leave this out of the full-size car section. It's a minor omission, but it's an omission nonetheless.
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