How Do I Check the Stock Coil for a '64 Dynamic w/ 394ci?

[Kaline]

I just performed a major tune-up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condenser, points, coil) on my '64 Dynamic 88 (low-compression 2bbl 394ci engine) and now the car will not start. It appears to not be sending spark to the plugs (my spark plug tester does not light up). It tried to start on the first crank, but now it just turns over. I tested the ignition switch and it is sending the proper voltage (5-7 V) to the positive side of the coil. The negative side of the coil reads around -0.36V and does NOT switch polarity when cranking. The points are gapped at 0.016". The distributor lobes are in great shape.

Originally when I posted this I was using the old coil. I have since replaced it with a new coil with no results.

Any suggestions?

[88 coupe]

Originally Posted by Kaline

........ does NOT switch polarity when cranking .........

It is NOT supposed to.

http://tech.classicoldsmobile.com/109.shtml

When the points are open the primary (5-7 volt) circuit is open and the (–) side will read zero. When the points close, it completes the (5-7 volt) circuit to ground, this saturates (charges) the secondary (high voltage) side of the coil. When the points open, The required voltage is sent through the center of the distributor cap, rotor, plug wire, and plug, to light the fire at the right time.

Pull the cap end of the distributor wire and hold it about ¼“ away from any ground while the engine is cranked. A spark shows the the coil, points, and condenser are working.

If so, check the cap and rotor.

If not, make sure the shaft/rotor is actually turning.

Norm

[Kaline]

Norm, thanks for the info. A friend lead me astray on the "switching" of the negative (ground) side of the coil. I'll check the coil wire going to the distributor for spark to try to isolate the issue.