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Old February 28th, 2012, 06:49 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Left rear brake light puzzle

'67 442

Left rear brake light does not operate when using right turn signal and brake pedal depressed.

New:
1. "American Auto Wire" harness for: Engine compartment - front lighting - rear lighting
2. Flasher unit
3. Rear bulbs

4 way flashers - OK
Left turn - OK
Right turn - OK
Brake lights - OK
Left turn with brake pedal depressed - OK
Right turn with brake pedal depressed - NO BRAKE LIGHT LEFT REAR

This is driving me crazy. Anyone have a suggestion(s)?
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Old February 28th, 2012, 07:37 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Check your signal light switch.

Sounds like it's not passing current through to the right side when in the right turn position.

- Eric
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Old February 28th, 2012, 07:51 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Eric,

You referring to the turn signal switch? The turn signals work, both left and right. The problem is only when the brake pedal is used. When the brake pedal is pushed down the rear brake lights work. If you use left turn signal - everything is fine. When you use right turn signal - left brake light goes out. ???????????????
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Old February 28th, 2012, 07:57 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Oh - when you signal RIGHT, the LEFT side goes out?

So, without staring at the diagram, it would seem that the signal light switch is not making contact in the terminals that pass the brake light current through to the left taillight.

I said right before, because I missed the fact that it's the RIGHT direction, but the LEFT bulb.

I'm not really confident that these signal light switches can be repaired, so you might need a new one.
You can take it apart and check continuities first, but by then, you might as well just replace it.

Advance Auto has them for $20.

- Eric
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Old February 29th, 2012, 06:01 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I echo MDchanic's response. It's most likely the t/s switch in the column.
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Old February 29th, 2012, 06:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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T/S switches made in China are junk. Find a nos or used one that was made in the states, and the problem will go away.
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Old February 29th, 2012, 08:44 AM   #7 (permalink)
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So he can fix it in half an hour with parts from his corner parts store and drive the car, for $20, or he can search for a NOS part and park the car until he finds it, for an undisclosed sum.

I'd fix it now and keep an eye open for a NOS part at a good price over the next year, then change it when the chance arises.

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Old March 1st, 2012, 09:13 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Guys,

Thanks for the knowledge/wisdom. I will get a turn signal switch ordered today. I will update everyone after the replacement.
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Old March 3rd, 2012, 08:54 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Guys.......slight problem. I got the "DR7" from the Advance Auto link. It fits, but the slot for the turn signal lever is not at the correct angle. The original one has the slot so that the turn signal lever comes straight out of the column. The replacement has the slot at about a 30 degree angle down. I would have to cut the steering column housing to make it operate.

I have standard steering column - no tilt, no cruise.

Suggestions / ideas????
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Old March 3rd, 2012, 09:58 AM   #10 (permalink)
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The AC Delco catalog crosses BWD DR7 to D6213. which the buyers guide says fits 73-78 Chevys. The correct number for a 67 442 is D6211.
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Old March 3rd, 2012, 03:23 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Yeah, sounds like they sold you the wrong part.

The link I provided was based on a search for your specific car, so their database may have the wrong information in it. Frank's number from the AC catalogue sounds like a good one. Also, for whatever it's worth sometimes parts don't come up in a search through Advance's website, but if you've got the part number, they can find it and order it just the same as all their other listings.

Sorry about that, but if they gave you the wrong part, they should be glad to swap it for the right one.

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Old March 12th, 2012, 06:32 AM   #12 (permalink)
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All,

Thanks for the guidance/assistance. I ended up have to replace the complete assembly. (Cam-switch-Wiring)
Works now. Thanks again !!!
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Old March 13th, 2012, 03:24 AM   #13 (permalink)
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All,

Thanks for the guidance/assistance. I ended up have to replace the complete assembly. (Cam-switch-Wiring)
Works now. Thanks again !!!
So, did you have to replace the steering column wiring harness? If so, how much of a job is that? I need to do mine and the harness has been sitting in it's box for 2 years now. I hate wiring!
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Old March 13th, 2012, 05:39 AM   #14 (permalink)
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So, did you have to replace the steering column wiring harness? If so, how much of a job is that? I need to do mine and the harness has been sitting in it's box for 2 years now. I hate wiring!
With a lock plate depression tool, this is a very easy job. Disconnect battery.. Remove horn cover, mark a spot on the column and steering wheel so you can get it on the right spline...Remove steering wheel, remove a couple screws from lock plate cover. Install lock plate compression tool on end of steering shaft and depress lock plate to remove wire clip. Remove tool and lock plate. Remove cancel cam (should slide right off), remove screw from hazard switch to remove button and remove 2 bolts from turn signal level. (Have not done a cruise car). Remove 3 screws that hold in the turn signal assembly to the column, they should be visible looking straight into the column.

This is where the limited pain comes in. Going from memory here. Remove lower column cover to dash, remove 2 or 4 screws that hold the column to the saddle that holds the column to the lower dash. Then remove the support for column to dash. Disconnect the wire harness and slide it out of the column. You will have to compress the wires onto the connector some to get it to clear the lower column opening.

Feed the new harness back in and reassemble. (I know sounds like a Chilton manual here.)
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Old March 13th, 2012, 04:50 PM   #15 (permalink)
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With a lock plate depression tool, this is a very easy job. Disconnect battery.. Remove horn cover, mark a spot on the column and steering wheel so you can get it on the right spline...Remove steering wheel, remove a couple screws from lock plate cover. Install lock plate compression tool on end of steering shaft and depress lock plate to remove wire clip. Remove tool and lock plate. Remove cancel cam (should slide right off), remove screw from hazard switch to remove button and remove 2 bolts from turn signal level. (Have not done a cruise car). Remove 3 screws that hold in the turn signal assembly to the column, they should be visible looking straight into the column.

This is where the limited pain comes in. Going from memory here. Remove lower column cover to dash, remove 2 or 4 screws that hold the column to the saddle that holds the column to the lower dash. Then remove the support for column to dash. Disconnect the wire harness and slide it out of the column. You will have to compress the wires onto the connector some to get it to clear the lower column opening.

Feed the new harness back in and reassemble. (I know sounds like a Chilton manual here.)
Thanks! I originally had it apart 4 years ago to replace the lock cylinder and made my own tool to remove the retainer and spring. Once back together and driving the car, when I hit the brakes both front parking lights come on. Of course after asking here, I checked all the grounds etc. Still the same. This is the only harness on the car that has not been replaced yet with new M&H harnesses. I searched on team chevelle and ran across the same problem. It turned out to be the column harness. Like I said, I hate wiring, thats why I replaced the rest with new. The column harness I have is GM. I guess I will just have to get off my lasy butt and do it.
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Old March 14th, 2012, 05:48 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Thanks! I originally had it apart 4 years ago to replace the lock cylinder and made my own tool to remove the retainer and spring. Once back together and driving the car, when I hit the brakes both front parking lights come on. Of course after asking here, I checked all the grounds etc. Still the same. This is the only harness on the car that has not been replaced yet with new M&H harnesses. I searched on team chevelle and ran across the same problem. It turned out to be the column harness. Like I said, I hate wiring, thats why I replaced the rest with new. The column harness I have is GM. I guess I will just have to get off my lasy butt and do it.
I ran into a car that had the park lights light up when I stepped on the brakes, turned out my brother-in-law had put in an 1156 in an 1157 socket for the rear of the car by accident. It shorts both pins together in the tail light socket.

Replacing the switch isn't that bad. I always shyed away from it and now after changing 2 different vehicles, I don't know why. It is not that bad.
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Old March 14th, 2012, 05:48 AM
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