Difficult to start after engine is hot.

New'n72 · 10-10-2007, 05:15 PM

Ok...you will have to forgive me, I have had this car many years but I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination and I could use some troubleshooting advise.

I recently had this '72 Cutlass tuned up. New plugs, ignition wires, condenser, rotor, distributor cap. Since then, it runs great but if I drive it a few miles, until the engine is up to temp, and then shut it off, I have a heck of a time getting it restarted. If I let it sit for 45 minutes to an hour or so, it will start up fine.

Discussion at work by the resident car people suggests that the coil may be the problem. That it changes or breaks down with increase in temperature.

What say you? Does this sound right? Any other ideas?

Thanks

dar83501 · 10-10-2007, 05:27 PM

It sounds like a camshaft position sensor or crank angle sensor that's getting heat soaked and shutting the car off to me, but that car is probably too old for either of those sensors to be on it in the first place. I would suggest running a fuel pressure test to determine if it has anything to do with your fuel pump.

I have a '91 that started doing the exact same thing, it would run till it heated up, then it won't turn over for an hour or two until it cools. It wasn't the fuel pump, I changed the alternator, fuel filter, battery, coil, electronic ignition module, the camshaft position sensor, and the only things left are the computer and crank angle sensor..I'm going to replace the sensor soon as there's room in the shop so I can sell the car.

If the fuel pressure test comes up okay (be sure to test while the car is running, when you turn the key off, and start the car again), then I would think it's most likely electrical.

Also, when it refuses to start, does it try to turn over but there is no spark, or is it just a dead click?

New'n72 · 10-10-2007, 06:05 PM

I should have given you more details in my first post. Sorry......The car runs great and the starter works fine, hot or cold. If I get the engine up to temp and then shut it off myself, it is hard to restart. The starter sounds good and turns the engine but it just doesn't fire.

This is a 350 with a 4 bbl.

The fuel pump is new this year, as is the line from pump to carburator and the filter.

It is not a question of power to turn over the engine but rather a question of possible weak spark, thus the 'coil' as a possible cause.

Once running it idols smooth and if I punch it, it does not hesitate or choke up, it moves out smartly. That would suggest, to me at least, that it not a carburator problem.

My only other novice thoughts would question what part vacumn might play in this. I know there is a vacumn line to the carb., I think that is the vacumn advance? Then too there is a vacumn line to the air cleaner which in turn has a temperature sensitive mechinism in it, of some sort.

Any advise is appreciated.

J-(Chicago) · 10-10-2007, 08:52 PM

My thoughts:
1. Does the new fuel line from the pump to the carb have a section of rubber in it? If so it may become pliable from engine heat and collapse on itself. Once the fuel is flowing again it will stiffen back up and be fine, but the initial start up will be bothersome.
2. The vacuum baffle in the air cleaner intake pipe. May be stuck closed and not getting enough vacuum to open until engine rpms are raised.
3. Carb choke. sticking closed when metal expands from heat, the rod may not move freely in the guide hole.
4. Hot air choke tube?
5. Timing too advanced? I'd check it just in case.

Try taking off the air cleaner lid, propping the choke open with a screwdriver,and pumping the gas pedal 10 times. It should start on 1 crank.

J-(Chicago) · 10-10-2007, 09:07 PM

I'm starting with air/fuel mixture problems here because if it was just running it obviously has spark.

here's some basics on an easy carb.
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DG

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DG

New'n72 · 10-11-2007, 02:34 AM

No rubber in the fuil line. Its SS from the fuel pump to the carb.

Vacumn or choke might be a cancern. Vacumn is an enigma to me.

I have never been in a place or at a time of day that popping the air cleaner and dribbling some gas in the carb, was easy to do. I will try that this week end though.

I guess since no one even touched the 'coil' comment, that is not a very logical choice?

The more I think about it, the more I think you're on to something with the choke sticking. As I recall the last time this happened, I drove about 10 miles, went into a store and then came out a tried to start it. It coughed and sputtered initially when I turned the key. In other words it tried and almost started but then died and would not start again accept with a little time and much effort on my part.

The initial sputtering was very brief and weak but a definate attempt to do the right thing.

Thanks for the help....I will let you know what happens.

Oldsguy · 10-11-2007, 04:53 AM

conduct a physical inspection of the parts changed during the tune-up. Look for a loose A+ wire on the coil, make sure it is tightly attached to the stud on the coil. Make sure all your plug wires and coil wires are inserted fully into their respective tower locations. Make sure the distributor hold down is tight. Make sure the points are secured to the backing plate well. Inspect the A+ wire from it's point of origin to the coil (actually back track as far as you can go from the coil backwards) look for a place where it might be touching something hot or have cracks or nicks on it. The only reason I am mentioning these is that I really don't have a singular item to identify and what I recommended you do is what I would do first. It might take up a half hour of your time and you might find the culprit.

New'n72 · 10-11-2007, 06:19 AM

A+ wire is new and looks great. It's not touching the engine blockor anything hot.

The distributor cap is tight.

The car runs great!

Its a starting problem.

J-(Chicago) · 10-11-2007, 01:26 PM

Haha It's an Illinois air problem.
My choke was stuck closed this morning... go figure.

Also, A lot of water in my exhaust pipes this morning as well. Must have sprayed out 6 ounces of water by the time she was warmed up.

Sometimes It really sucks when 10 people are checking out your car. Especially when it starts like crap.

Olds64 · 10-11-2007, 04:18 PM

Quote:

There is a vacumn line to the air cleaner which in turn has a temperature sensitive mechinism in it, of some sort.

That item could be a THERMAC door and heat stove. I know cars in the late 70s had them, I am not sure when they started using them. You can identify it by looking for a heat stove on the passenger side exhaust manifold that has a tube leading up to the air cleaner. If you have a THERMAC door that is malfunctioning it could cause poor idle or harsh starting conditions. The THERMAC door is in the air cleaner and channels outside air to the carb during normal operation and air off of the heat stove to the carb during start up. Just an idea.

J-(Chicago) · 10-11-2007, 04:37 PM

good idea olds64. I actually have a 72 455 block on a stand right now. I'll take a look and see if they had them.
I know for a fact that the air cleaner housings had the 3 inch circle vacuum diaphragm motor canister on the fresh air inlet though. (the one that dampers the air)

J-(Chicago) · 10-11-2007, 05:19 PM

Yep. there's an air bleed thermac inside. The only other thing on it is the rubber elbow for the valve cover crankcase.

The problem with the thermostatic theory is:
It opens and closes to help the car warm up faster for cold starts.

The thermac is closed off when the motor is hot, which is when he is having trouble.

If it doesn't ever close however it WOULD kinda be like putting a runner in a sauna after a marathon.

New'n72 · 10-13-2007, 12:02 PM

As I recall the last time this happened, I drove about 10 miles, went into a store and then came out a tried to start it. It coughed and sputtered initially when I turned the key. In other words it tried and almost started but then died.

I went ahead and put a new coil on it last night. I had 4 different guys at work tell me it was a coil problem. I took it out this morning and ran it to the next town and back. I let it sit for about 20 minutes and then tried to start it. It sputterd and tried to start but acted like it just could quite get it. I turned the key off, pumped the gas peddel about 6 times and tried again. It gound for a couple seconds and then roared like a lion! Idol was good, rev it a little and it did not choke up and it sounded great.

I turned it off and let it sit another 30 minutes or so and tried it again. Same symptom. Try to start and sputter a few times then nothing. Pump the gas peddel a half dozen times and then try and after 5 seconds of grinding it caught and fired up.

It seems as though the coil may have made a slight difference but it is still kind'a iffy.

FYI: I do have the air cleaner set up that was talked about a couple posts back.

Sometimes It really sucks when 10 people are checking out your car. Especially when it starts like crap.
__________________
Man, you sure got that right!

New'n72 · 10-13-2007, 12:45 PM

It has been sitting for about 2 hours now and cooled down. I just went out a tried it. I bearly touched the key and it fired up.

It definately starts better cold than when its hot.

Dapapadon · 10-13-2007, 01:22 PM

I tried to post this yesterday & the site was down. Hope it helps.

If the problem started with the tune up, I'd double check the timing. Get the timing advanced a little too much & you get hard starting when the engine is warm. The engine would run a little hot too, but if you don't have a gauge you woudn't see that.

Remember to disconnect the distributor vacuum advance and plug the vacuum line before setting the timming.

Don

J-(Chicago) · 10-13-2007, 01:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by New'n72

[color="Black"]I went ahead and put a new coil on it last night. I had 4 different guys at work tell me it was a coil problem.

Mmhmm.
Looks like 4 guys at your work owe us beer haha.

If it can breathe, and the choke doesn't stick then
we're down to my #4 and 5 on the list and I think I'm gonna stick with Da Papa on this one.

New'n72 · 10-15-2007, 05:02 AM

I will check the timing one day this week. Need to borrow a timing light.

Jim's rare 80 · 11-20-2007, 04:22 AM

To find out if it's a choke issue, next time it doesn't start, warm. Instead of pumping the pedal 40 million times, just hold it right to the floor, and turn the key. Depressing the pedal to the floor manually opens the choke, regardless of temp. If it starts, choke adjustment is definitely the issue. Let us know how it goes.

LBF · 11-20-2007, 05:41 PM

Sounds like vapor lock to me. Does the fuel line run near the exhaust?

New'n72 · 11-20-2007, 06:25 PM

I have tried holding the gas pedal down and letting it crank. No go.

I took the air clear off and watched the choke. When it was hot it was wide open and as it cooled it slowly closed.

The gas line runs from the fuel pump which is mounted on the right front of the engine, down and back. I have duals on it and it is possible, since I don't recall actually looking at the gas line, that it may come close to an exhaust?

The car runs great otherwise. Idols great, doesn't balk when I goose it.

I haven't driven it much lately with the weather turning colder.

kevinkpk · 11-20-2007, 07:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by New'n72

I have tried holding the gas pedal down and letting it crank. No go.

I took the air clear off and watched the choke. When it was hot it was wide open and as it cooled it slowly closed.

The gas line runs from the fuel pump which is mounted on the right front of the engine, down and back. I have duals on it and it is possible, since I don't recall actually looking at the gas line, that it may come close to an exhaust?

The car runs great otherwise. Idols great, doesn't balk when I goose it.

I haven't driven it much lately with the weather turning colder.

How fast does it crank? If the advance is too far it might start when cold. I had the same (and am still to some extent) with a distributor advance, cold no problem, hot it would barley start at times. If it sounds like (during crank, hot) like a low battery it is probably timming too far advanced. I ended up replacing my distributor because of it being worn out.

kevinkpk · 11-20-2007, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LBF

Sounds like vapor lock to me. Does the fuel line run near the exhaust?

Vapor lock dosen't mean that the fuel line is near a hot spot, or exhaust, but yes heat AND usually a fuel line that has alot of bends and particularily around a hot section of the engine.

I had a 69 Caprice that vapor locked ALOT, that problem was a result of a crooked fuel line in the front of the engine feeding the carb.

LBF · 11-21-2007, 12:09 AM

My vapor lock problems were solved years ago with the addition of an electric fuel pump.

New'n72 · 11-21-2007, 06:12 AM

To recap: Fuel line has had the rubber sections replaced, fuel pump is new, line from fuel pump to carb (stainless) is new, as is fuel filter, points, rotor, cap, condenser, plug wires and plugs are all new, coil is also new.

Carburator is original (110K miles) and has not been rebuilt.

Engine has not been pulled and/or rebuilt. Except for parts mentioned, it is all original.

Choke seems to step through its' stages as it should.

I have NOT checked the timing yet. Meant to a few weeks back but couldn't borrow a timimg light at that time and since then I have had other things to do, not car related.

Gas tank was not dropped and steamed but as I said before, it runs great and gives no other indication of crud in the fuel line or clogging the filter.

Since I am not a mechanic and have not ever really been interested in the mechanical operations of automobiles other than driving them, I can ask some very basic questions and they may have nothing to do with the problem so bear with me, please.

For instance: Isn't there a reservoir in the fuel system someplace? The fuel pump or the carb? Something that holds a small amount of gas for initial ignition? Could this be draining and causing the line to be syphoned dry so that the pump has to fill the line to the carb and the reservoir before it gets any fuel through the carburator to the cylinders? That is what is acts like. Its like it has no gas to the heads and after cranking and/or using the gas pedal for several minutes it finally fires up. It acts the same as when I let the car sit for several days and then start it. The first time, I have to crank quite a bit and hold the gas peddal to the floor, to get it started.

Once it starts, everthing is fine and it runs without fault.

kevinkpk · 11-21-2007, 07:20 AM

For instance: Isn't there a reservoir in the fuel system someplace? The fuel pump or the carb? Something that holds a small amount of gas for initial ignition?

That is in the carburetor, there is a float that opens a valve when the float is low and allows gas from the fuel pump, and shutsoff when it is full.

Does the starter crank the engine over the same when hot or cold (same speed)? If, when "hot" trying to crank, does it act like the battery is not charged? If thats not the case it's most likley fuel related.

10-10-2007, 05:15 PM	#1 (permalink)
New'n72 Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Southern Illinois, Belleville area Posts: 67	Difficult to start after engine is hot. Ok...you will have to forgive me, I have had this car many years but I am not a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination and I could use some troubleshooting advise. I recently had this '72 Cutlass tuned up. New plugs, ignition wires, condenser, rotor, distributor cap. Since then, it runs great but if I drive it a few miles, until the engine is up to temp, and then shut it off, I have a heck of a time getting it restarted. If I let it sit for 45 minutes to an hour or so, it will start up fine. Discussion at work by the resident car people suggests that the coil may be the problem. That it changes or breaks down with increase in temperature. What say you? Does this sound right? Any other ideas? Thanks __________________ New'n72

10-10-2007, 06:05 PM	#3 (permalink)
New'n72 Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Southern Illinois, Belleville area Posts: 67	I should have given you more details in my first post. Sorry......The car runs great and the starter works fine, hot or cold. If I get the engine up to temp and then shut it off myself, it is hard to restart. The starter sounds good and turns the engine but it just doesn't fire. This is a 350 with a 4 bbl. The fuel pump is new this year, as is the line from pump to carburator and the filter. It is not a question of power to turn over the engine but rather a question of possible weak spark, thus the 'coil' as a possible cause. Once running it idols smooth and if I punch it, it does not hesitate or choke up, it moves out smartly. That would suggest, to me at least, that it not a carburator problem. My only other novice thoughts would question what part vacumn might play in this. I know there is a vacumn line to the carb., I think that is the vacumn advance? Then too there is a vacumn line to the air cleaner which in turn has a temperature sensitive mechinism in it, of some sort. Any advise is appreciated. __________________ New'n72

10-10-2007, 08:52 PM	#4 (permalink)
J-(Chicago) Seasoned beater pilot. Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Chicago Posts: 1,537	My thoughts: 1. Does the new fuel line from the pump to the carb have a section of rubber in it? If so it may become pliable from engine heat and collapse on itself. Once the fuel is flowing again it will stiffen back up and be fine, but the initial start up will be bothersome. 2. The vacuum baffle in the air cleaner intake pipe. May be stuck closed and not getting enough vacuum to open until engine rpms are raised. 3. Carb choke. sticking closed when metal expands from heat, the rod may not move freely in the guide hole. 4. Hot air choke tube? 5. Timing too advanced? I'd check it just in case. Try taking off the air cleaner lid, propping the choke open with a screwdriver,and pumping the gas pedal 10 times. It should start on 1 crank. __________________ I'd rather have a numbers matching poker hand. Last edited by J-(Chicago) : 10-13-2007 at 01:47 PM.

10-10-2007, 09:07 PM	#5 (permalink)
J-(Chicago) Seasoned beater pilot. Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Chicago Posts: 1,537	I'm starting with air/fuel mixture problems here because if it was just running it obviously has spark. here's some basics on an easy carb. http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DG http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...%3Den%26sa%3DG __________________ I'd rather have a numbers matching poker hand. Last edited by J-(Chicago) : 10-10-2007 at 09:12 PM.

10-11-2007, 02:34 AM	#6 (permalink)
New'n72 Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Southern Illinois, Belleville area Posts: 67	No rubber in the fuil line. Its SS from the fuel pump to the carb. Vacumn or choke might be a cancern. Vacumn is an enigma to me. I have never been in a place or at a time of day that popping the air cleaner and dribbling some gas in the carb, was easy to do. I will try that this week end though. I guess since no one even touched the 'coil' comment, that is not a very logical choice? The more I think about it, the more I think you're on to something with the choke sticking. As I recall the last time this happened, I drove about 10 miles, went into a store and then came out a tried to start it. It coughed and sputtered initially when I turned the key. In other words it tried and almost started but then died and would not start again accept with a little time and much effort on my part. The initial sputtering was very brief and weak but a definate attempt to do the right thing. Thanks for the help....I will let you know what happens. __________________ New'n72

10-10-2007, 05:27 PM	#2 (permalink)
dar83501 Brewsmobile > Bluesmobile Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Lewiston, Idaho Posts: 272	It sounds like a camshaft position sensor or crank angle sensor that's getting heat soaked and shutting the car off to me, but that car is probably too old for either of those sensors to be on it in the first place. I would suggest running a fuel pressure test to determine if it has anything to do with your fuel pump. I have a '91 that started doing the exact same thing, it would run till it heated up, then it won't turn over for an hour or two until it cools. It wasn't the fuel pump, I changed the alternator, fuel filter, battery, coil, electronic ignition module, the camshaft position sensor, and the only things left are the computer and crank angle sensor..I'm going to replace the sensor soon as there's room in the shop so I can sell the car. If the fuel pressure test comes up okay (be sure to test while the car is running, when you turn the key off, and start the car again), then I would think it's most likely electrical. Also, when it refuses to start, does it try to turn over but there is no spark, or is it just a dead click?

10-11-2007, 04:53 AM	#7 (permalink)
Oldsguy Administrator Join Date: May 2004 Location: Lees Summit MO Posts: 2,859	conduct a physical inspection of the parts changed during the tune-up. Look for a loose A+ wire on the coil, make sure it is tightly attached to the stud on the coil. Make sure all your plug wires and coil wires are inserted fully into their respective tower locations. Make sure the distributor hold down is tight. Make sure the points are secured to the backing plate well. Inspect the A+ wire from it's point of origin to the coil (actually back track as far as you can go from the coil backwards) look for a place where it might be touching something hot or have cracks or nicks on it. The only reason I am mentioning these is that I really don't have a singular item to identify and what I recommended you do is what I would do first. It might take up a half hour of your time and you might find the culprit. __________________ Dan '46 2 door

10-11-2007, 06:19 AM	#8 (permalink)
New'n72 Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Southern Illinois, Belleville area Posts: 67	A+ wire is new and looks great. It's not touching the engine blockor anything hot. The distributor cap is tight. The car runs great! Its a starting problem. __________________ New'n72

10-11-2007, 01:26 PM	#9 (permalink)
J-(Chicago) Seasoned beater pilot. Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Chicago Posts: 1,537	Haha It's an Illinois air problem. My choke was stuck closed this morning... go figure. Also, A lot of water in my exhaust pipes this morning as well. Must have sprayed out 6 ounces of water by the time she was warmed up. Sometimes It really sucks when 10 people are checking out your car. Especially when it starts like crap. __________________ I'd rather have a numbers matching poker hand. Last edited by J-(Chicago) : 10-11-2007 at 01:39 PM.

10-11-2007, 05:19 PM	#12 (permalink)
J-(Chicago) Seasoned beater pilot. Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Chicago Posts: 1,537	Yep. there's an air bleed thermac inside. The only other thing on it is the rubber elbow for the valve cover crankcase. The problem with the thermostatic theory is: It opens and closes to help the car warm up faster for cold starts. The thermac is closed off when the motor is hot, which is when he is having trouble. If it doesn't ever close however it WOULD kinda be like putting a runner in a sauna after a marathon. __________________ I'd rather have a numbers matching poker hand. Last edited by J-(Chicago) : 10-11-2007 at 05:24 PM.

10-13-2007, 12:02 PM	#13 (permalink)
New'n72 Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Southern Illinois, Belleville area Posts: 67	As I recall the last time this happened, I drove about 10 miles, went into a store and then came out a tried to start it. It coughed and sputtered initially when I turned the key. In other words it tried and almost started but then died. I went ahead and put a new coil on it last night. I had 4 different guys at work tell me it was a coil problem. I took it out this morning and ran it to the next town and back. I let it sit for about 20 minutes and then tried to start it. It sputterd and tried to start but acted like it just could quite get it. I turned the key off, pumped the gas peddel about 6 times and tried again. It gound for a couple seconds and then roared like a lion! Idol was good, rev it a little and it did not choke up and it sounded great. I turned it off and let it sit another 30 minutes or so and tried it again. Same symptom. Try to start and sputter a few times then nothing. Pump the gas peddel a half dozen times and then try and after 5 seconds of grinding it caught and fired up. It seems as though the coil may have made a slight difference but it is still kind'a iffy. FYI: I do have the air cleaner set up that was talked about a couple posts back. Sometimes It really sucks when 10 people are checking out your car. Especially when it starts like crap. __________________ Man, you sure got that right! __________________ New'n72

10-13-2007, 12:45 PM	#14 (permalink)
New'n72 Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Southern Illinois, Belleville area Posts: 67	It has been sitting for about 2 hours now and cooled down. I just went out a tried it. I bearly touched the key and it fired up. It definately starts better cold than when its hot. __________________ New'n72

10-13-2007, 01:22 PM	#15 (permalink)
Dapapadon Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Portland, OR Posts: 284	I tried to post this yesterday & the site was down. Hope it helps. If the problem started with the tune up, I'd double check the timing. Get the timing advanced a little too much & you get hard starting when the engine is warm. The engine would run a little hot too, but if you don't have a gauge you woudn't see that. Remember to disconnect the distributor vacuum advance and plug the vacuum line before setting the timming. Don

10-15-2007, 05:02 AM	#17 (permalink)
New'n72 Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Southern Illinois, Belleville area Posts: 67	I will check the timing one day this week. Need to borrow a timing light. __________________ New'n72

11-20-2007, 04:22 AM	#18 (permalink)
Jim's rare 80 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 210	To find out if it's a choke issue, next time it doesn't start, warm. Instead of pumping the pedal 40 million times, just hold it right to the floor, and turn the key. Depressing the pedal to the floor manually opens the choke, regardless of temp. If it starts, choke adjustment is definitely the issue. Let us know how it goes. __________________

11-20-2007, 05:41 PM	#19 (permalink)
LBF Hearse Driver Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Missouri Posts: 12	Hot restart Sounds like vapor lock to me. Does the fuel line run near the exhaust? __________________ It's the drive, not the destination...

11-20-2007, 06:25 PM	#20 (permalink)
New'n72 Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Southern Illinois, Belleville area Posts: 67	I have tried holding the gas pedal down and letting it crank. No go. I took the air clear off and watched the choke. When it was hot it was wide open and as it cooled it slowly closed. The gas line runs from the fuel pump which is mounted on the right front of the engine, down and back. I have duals on it and it is possible, since I don't recall actually looking at the gas line, that it may come close to an exhaust? The car runs great otherwise. Idols great, doesn't balk when I goose it. I haven't driven it much lately with the weather turning colder. __________________ New'n72

11-21-2007, 12:09 AM	#23 (permalink)
LBF Hearse Driver Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Missouri Posts: 12	Electric fuel pump My vapor lock problems were solved years ago with the addition of an electric fuel pump. __________________ It's the drive, not the destination...

11-21-2007, 06:12 AM	#24 (permalink)
New'n72 Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Southern Illinois, Belleville area Posts: 67	To recap: Fuel line has had the rubber sections replaced, fuel pump is new, line from fuel pump to carb (stainless) is new, as is fuel filter, points, rotor, cap, condenser, plug wires and plugs are all new, coil is also new. Carburator is original (110K miles) and has not been rebuilt. Engine has not been pulled and/or rebuilt. Except for parts mentioned, it is all original. Choke seems to step through its' stages as it should. I have NOT checked the timing yet. Meant to a few weeks back but couldn't borrow a timimg light at that time and since then I have had other things to do, not car related. Gas tank was not dropped and steamed but as I said before, it runs great and gives no other indication of crud in the fuel line or clogging the filter. Since I am not a mechanic and have not ever really been interested in the mechanical operations of automobiles other than driving them, I can ask some very basic questions and they may have nothing to do with the problem so bear with me, please. For instance: Isn't there a reservoir in the fuel system someplace? The fuel pump or the carb? Something that holds a small amount of gas for initial ignition? Could this be draining and causing the line to be syphoned dry so that the pump has to fill the line to the carb and the reservoir before it gets any fuel through the carburator to the cylinders? That is what is acts like. Its like it has no gas to the heads and after cranking and/or using the gas pedal for several minutes it finally fires up. It acts the same as when I let the car sit for several days and then start it. The first time, I have to crank quite a bit and hold the gas peddal to the floor, to get it started. Once it starts, everthing is fine and it runs without fault. __________________ New'n72

11-21-2007, 07:20 AM	#25 (permalink)
kevinkpk Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: west Posts: 212	For instance: Isn't there a reservoir in the fuel system someplace? The fuel pump or the carb? Something that holds a small amount of gas for initial ignition? That is in the carburetor, there is a float that opens a valve when the float is low and allows gas from the fuel pump, and shutsoff when it is full. Does the starter crank the engine over the same when hot or cold (same speed)? If, when "hot" trying to crank, does it act like the battery is not charged? If thats not the case it's most likley fuel related.