yeahbuddy

Going to be ordering one of these 120amp 1 wire alternators from ebay. They are around $75 shipped with a lifetime warranty. Cant really argue with that. I am going to attempt to replace it myself but I have a question regarding the regulator? The auction says it has an internal regulator and the external regulator can be removed. How would this work? Does the external reg just get scrapped? I could swear there are other connects going to it?

68 Cutlass 350

yeahbuddy

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=370535960273

coppercutlass

just take the regulator off the wall tape the wires if you so choose to go back to a external regulator. Thats pretty much it one wire hook up it couldnt be anymore simpler. you do away with the wire harness that gets plugged into the back of the alternator all you have to do is hook up the red wire and thats it. I bought mine from autozone off a 1980 chevy wagon was 45 plus core worked just as good .

MDchanic

Here is a nice tutorial.

- Eric

yeahbuddy

copper your description is simple enough..

MD that tutorial just confused the heck out of me. -_-

MDchanic

Okay, fine. How's this one?

It includes this picture, which is all you need to know, really:



and goes into a comparison between the different alternators.

Be sure to read this discussion of why one-wire alternators are a bad idea.

- Eric

coppercutlass

i never had an issue with mine. Been running the same 1 wire set up for 4 years no issues. I think it's personal prefrence.

MDchanic

Hey, if it works, it works, but I'd sooner use a stock Delco unit with the voltage sensor wire, which is really no harder to install, than some unknown aftermarket unit that shunts the sensor to the output and has a reputation for poor charging at idle.

Well, actually, in my pre-'73 cars, I just use the old external regulators, which have always been trouble-free for me, but if I ever DID want to change, I would change to a regular Delco unit and not a one-wire .

Also, looking at your post #3, I think you used a stock Delco unit as well, so I think we're actually both in agreement on this one...

- Eric

coppercutlass

yeah i bought a rebuilt one from the local autozone. its a one wire set up and thats it but it is a delco unit . I didnt do the jumper as that part of the case was sealed

yeahbuddy

So do I have to jumper the middle two and outter two wires on the plug that goes to the external regulator like they say to do in the 70s Chevy?

75$ lifetime warranty and 120amp...chrome...fits my budget since my car isn't a show piece but if you can point me to a Delco that can supply same power for same cost and no modification, I'm there.

coppercutlass

Go to autozone or advance . They are cheaper and same warranty. i used the one wire no jumper or nothing. i will have to look tommorow night and see if i can still read the part number . but I also have a 3 wire internal regulated alternator in my dads olds powered 77 pontiac bonneville i can give you both part numbers and it should be much cheaper. DL7127M this is for late 70's gm uses the 2 wire plug in the rear this is the one you make the jumper for. it's 44 plus core from autozone

yeahbuddy

DL7127M is a Duralast alternator that outputs 63amps.

I have a Delco 63 amp alternator but I am trying to get 100-120amps here...

coppercutlass

you running a sound system or extra electronics. i dont have a high amp unit and i can run dual electric fans, water pump, msd, and radio without issue.

yeahbuddy

My 63amp alt runs at half its power at idle and drops below 12v with the lights on. It is one of those alts that Kragen lists as a 68 Olds. Im not into it. I want to just put a 100-120amp and not worry about it.

coppercutlass

gotcha. I thought you where trying to eliminate the regulator.

yeahbuddy

My GEN light has stayed on since I got the car two years ago. The regulator and alt was replaced but it stayed on. Curious to see what the bypass would do to the GEN light?

MDchanic

Well, I hate to say it, but that points to something being wrong somewhere.

I'd go through that circuit and see whether you've got the proper connections through to the warning bulb, as well as checking the rest of your alternator connections, including checking for increased resistance, and you may find that the alternator you've already got works fine.

- Eric

coppercutlass

I agree with mdchanic there is no reason your system should not be working properly.

68conv455

Search for this post. I converted the alternator in my 68 to a higher output version. I am happy with it and have plenty of juice.
10DN to 12SI alternator upgrade. 60 amp to 94 amp

yankees

coppercutlass did u run the 1 wire directly to the + battery terminal or did you run the alternator wire back to the Horn Relay like in the diagram posted by MD?

Also for your MSD ignition connection where did you end up splicing it into?

Anyone consider running a 16 volt system or had their standard alternator upgraded for 16 volts?

coppercutlass

I'm just running the one wire that would go onto the alternator . Instead of hooking up the plug leave that out and that's it. I just have the one heavy gauge wire from the engine harness and that's it . I'm running the msd from the starter run side. And I have it hooked up to a switch under the dash kinda like a kill switch. I'm running a 6al digital it can vary from model to model where they suggest you hook it up to

yankees

So you're saying you have the 1 wire directly connected to the horn relay hot and not directly to your + battery post?

For your ignition it appears that you tapped your MSD Ignition into the purple wire going to the start S terminal?


Just need a little more clarification.

coppercutlass

for the alternator im a bit confused as to what you mean. the 1 wire that goes to the back on the small stud of the alternator is the main feed wire thats all you use. if you look at your stock alternator you will have this wire and a plug with two wires just use the red heavy gauge wire. as for the msd i have one going to the solenoid and then another one to a key source.

MDchanic

OR if you are the obsessive type, you can connect the "2" terminal to the battery (+) terminal (the "2" terminal will take a regular spade female connector) for more accurate voltage regulation.

No big deal - it will work either way.

- Eric

yankees

copper it looks like we are saying the same things. I was figuring that you rerouted the wire from the alternator stud directly to the battery. It looks like you just disconnected the red from your old alternator that comes from the firewall horn relay and reconnected it to the new alt.

Thanks and all set

coppercutlass

sorry about my confusion. I did all my wiring 4 years ago and wiring is not my strong point mainly patience is my enemy.

1969 442 w30

yeahbuddy, I'm Just curious, did you ever get the light to go out? and if yes, what was the problem. thanks Michael