MDchanic

Did the problem start after you replaced the switch?


Also, do what Rob says - fuses shouldn't be hot.

- Eric

Beeks69

No it was like this before that is why I replaced it and didn't take care of it.

Junkman

Is there any indication that the front end might have been hit, and there is a pinched wire somewhere? Check the wiring plugs where the front wire harness goes into the back of the fuse block on the firewall to make sure that they are properly seated and tight. Warm fuses can be an indication of a poor connection. At this point, I am grasping at straws thinking about this problem. I am backing away from the thought about the headlamp switch, and thinking about a pinched wire somewhere, or a screw that has pierced the wiring slightly just enough to cause you problems. Also thinking that there is a bad connection or short somewhere in the system, and that is why I suggested checking the connectors at the firewall. If all else fails, you are left with physically checking the entire wire harness from the firewall to the headlamps for damage. If that produces nothing, then you will have to do the same for the under dash wire harness. The one that that I haven't suggested, and might make sense to do is to get 4 used bulbs and change the originals one at a time, and check the operation after each one has been replaced. If by the time you have all 4 replaced, there is no change, then you know it has to be in the wiring. At this point, I wouldn't trust any one component to not be suspect, except the headlamp switch and dimmer switch.

Beeks69

Checked voltage 12.8v both sides when lights are off 12.5 volts when lights are on but when you look at the fuse panel and the taillight fuse when I put my prong from my voltmeter on there it sparks on the right side of the fuse it does not happen on anyother fuse? I took the fuse block apart from the firewall cleaned any connections and still the same thing tried cleaning the back side of the panel in the inside of the car the connections look rusty cleaned the best I could still happened after that. The car was never in a accident that I know of and can't find any thing on the car to show that it was hit so I might rule that out.

69442C

Give this a try. Remove both rear tail light bulbs as well as the rear side marker bulbs. This may not work but it's an easy test. If there is a short in one of those sockets and since it is on the same circuit as the headlights, see what happens. If that doesn't do it, try unplugging the rear harness completely from the fuse panel. There will be plug on the end of the rear harness up by the fuse panel. I think it will be off to the right side. This will eliminate all of the rear lights as well as that wiring. See if that does anything.

Beeks69

Unplugged the rear wiring harness by the fuse panel still had the flickering. Tail light fuse gets super hot on the right side of the fuse only looking at the fuse block even when the low beams are on. Traced all the wiring looks very good.

Lady72nRob71

Change the fuse with one of same amp rating.

The internal metal strip fatigues and can break internally. I made up a thread here somewhere about this issue - not uncommon.
Here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post185782


If this don't work, you might need to change the car.

Junkman

Have you used steel wool to clean any terminals? Have you tried other headlamp bulbs yet? I will keep thinking of things that it might be, but I am out of ideas at this point. I still think that there is a place where the wires might have been twisted, and you have 2 wires touching. Possibly when the headlamp switch was last changed. Try taking the headlamp switch out of the dash, and let it dangle and then reinsert the headlamp ****, and try again.

Beeks69

I fixed the hot fuse problem took that terminal out and replaced the fuse holder and that took care of that problem. I will be trying another new switch went with a/c delco this time when it comes in and then if that don't work I will do headlights on it thanks for everyones input on this

Beeks69

Well I know this is old but I fixed my issue by putting a headlight relay on my bright side of my headlights and perfect everything works great!! I put my time into restoring my car that is why I have not worked on this issue. I finally fixed it last night 7/25/13 I love the way my car turned out. I will post pics of it done soon. Well just saying thanks to everyone who helped me on this issue when I first asked.

joe_padavano

Congrats, but to be clear, you didn't actually "fix" the problem, you band-aided it. There was no relay required from the factory, so the underlying problem is still there. The relay simply masks it or bypasses it. I assume you are now using the original wire to operate the relay. Hopefully the underlying problem won't end up causing the relay not to work.

Beeks69

I upgraded the headlights way back when this started and the amperage was to much I am assuming. So what is your opinion on this Joe. Switch was replaced dimmer switch replaced all wiring was traced no knicks or cuts. fuse panel cleaned and looks good.

MDchanic

Glad to hear you got it fixed!

- Eric

Beeks69

Thanks I love my car!

cfair

Gang,
Late into this thread, but very familiar with the flickering issue from 35 years or so with my 66 98 and 15 or so with my 66 Starfire. I just replaced the wiring harness for my 98 convertible: very formally with Packard 56 connectors & every contact cleaned & soldered. Then came the headlight issue when I had left the switches alone, cleaned all contact & swapped the wires.... turns out the problem was a marginal non-Delco headlamp switch. I swapped in a GM/Delco original switch and saw no flickering for 40+ minutes on high beams. I conclude that NOS switches are what to aim for, but aftermarket may work for you. Long story short 40 year old Delco beat 10 year old cheapo headlight switch...I hate cr*p quality...

costpenn

I had the exact same issue occur when I restored my 72. The car had sat for a long time before I bought it and when I finished the resto, one of the problems I had was flickering in addition to if you hit the high beams the low beams would go out, etc..

Went round and round till I finally looked at the connectors that plug into the headlamps. From just looking at them you would have thought they were OK, but I noticed if I jiggled the connectors, all kinds of things would happen. I went ahead and pulled the plastic part off, and found they were severely corroded with a white"crust" that was causing the intermittent problems. I used a Dremel tool to clean all the metal connectors as well as the lugs on the lamps, plugged it back together and voila - no more problems.

I am in the middle of doing another resto on a 70. With the exception of the molded "smile" connectors on the turn signal switch, I completely dissasembled every connector and cleaned it. By FAR, the most corroded connectors on this car were the headlamp connectors.

twintracks

With some of the higher watt/amp halogens, they do recommend that a relay be added.
I lost my lights completely on my '68 Toronado shortly after adding halogen low beams. I was blaming the switch. But it turned out to be a weak connection on the back of the fuse panel. When it was loose, it did get hot trying to work through a small, weak, frayed wire connection. The extra heat found, or created the "weak link".