timing

jd75 · January 9th, 2007, 08:03 PM

hey fellas this is my first post and im glad to have found this site. i have a 79 cutlass with a 74 350 which was running fine until i started messing with it. let me first say that this car was a friend of mines about 10 years ago and he sold it to someone that didnt take care of it, ie routine maitenance like changing the fluids and filters. anyway the thing wont start. i have read that in order to set the timing go to tdc on #1 & point rotor to #1 plug and make sure plug wire is indexed above rotor. and to run wires counterclockwise. did all that and the most ive gotten is a huge burst of gas through the carb and a fear of fires. plugs are all good ive pulled them each and checked for spark there set at .35 & wires are good as well. am i missing something or everything. ive tried every combination i can think of as far as what could be wrong, got the firing order right. any help or advise would be appreciated. oh and its a hei with a vac. & another wire opposite main wires which is cut, and was this way before when it ran. as far as i can tell it was used before the computer assisted dist.came out.

texasred · January 9th, 2007, 08:13 PM

Try putting the distributor 180 degrees out. Remember, there are "two" TDCs...intake TDC and exhaust TDC.

C.J.

jd75 · January 9th, 2007, 09:08 PM

by putting the distributor 180 out i should move the rotor 180? and then should i move all plug wires over 180 also? and thanks for the quick reply earlier i didnt expect a responce that soon.

texasred · January 9th, 2007, 09:43 PM

you can swap the plug wires on the cap (easy) or pull the distributor and stab it 180 out (hard). Can't tell you how many times I've done that over the last *mumble mumble* years.

C.J.

mitsudave · January 10th, 2007, 08:36 PM

First make sure your firing order is correct (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, CCW) and that you are referencing the cylinders correctly (drivers side 1-3-5-7 front to back, pass side 2-4-6-8 front to back). If that's OK and the car still won't run, then leave the dist and rotor alone and move all your plug wires 4 posts CCW...effectively putting the timing 180 degrees off from what it is now. If that doesn't work, you may have the distributor in wrong.

texasred · January 11th, 2007, 12:46 AM

MUCH better info and MUCH better explaination. Thanks, Mitsu!

C.J.

jd75 · January 11th, 2007, 12:20 PM

i finally had a chance to try again, and thanks guys it fired right up. alll those times i tried by starting from scratch with everything unhooked i was always on the exhaust tdc. a piece of hose shooting across the garage works wonders. one other question, i have the exhaust unhooked from where it dumps down and was wondering if its possible to still set the timing with a light accurately? thanks again for the how to's.

texasred · January 11th, 2007, 12:24 PM

GOOD DEAL!

Is the exhaust manifold or header bolted on the head and just the exhaust pipe unhooked? No problem...other than your hearing!

You can also time it with the exhaust coming straight out of the head...but you run the risk of damaging valves and seats because of the temperature change.

C.J.

jd75 · January 11th, 2007, 08:04 PM

i just have the pipes unbolted from the manifold getting ready to lift the motor and clean out the oil pan and probably change out the pump. from what ive read that looks like a frustrating weekend. worth it though. but first im gonna let it run for a while and get the timing close, my neighbors gonna love that. thanks again for the info & this is a great site!

January 9th, 2007, 08:03 PM	#1 (permalink)
jd75 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 28	timing hey fellas this is my first post and im glad to have found this site. i have a 79 cutlass with a 74 350 which was running fine until i started messing with it. let me first say that this car was a friend of mines about 10 years ago and he sold it to someone that didnt take care of it, ie routine maitenance like changing the fluids and filters. anyway the thing wont start. i have read that in order to set the timing go to tdc on #1 & point rotor to #1 plug and make sure plug wire is indexed above rotor. and to run wires counterclockwise. did all that and the most ive gotten is a huge burst of gas through the carb and a fear of fires. plugs are all good ive pulled them each and checked for spark there set at .35 & wires are good as well. am i missing something or everything. ive tried every combination i can think of as far as what could be wrong, got the firing order right. any help or advise would be appreciated. oh and its a hei with a vac. & another wire opposite main wires which is cut, and was this way before when it ran. as far as i can tell it was used before the computer assisted dist.came out.

January 9th, 2007, 08:13 PM	#2 (permalink)
texasred Tom Servo's Stunt Double Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 824	Try putting the distributor 180 degrees out. Remember, there are "two" TDCs...intake TDC and exhaust TDC. C.J. __________________ Dad said, "Sometimes you read Job...sometimes you ARE Job!"

January 9th, 2007, 09:43 PM	#4 (permalink)
texasred Tom Servo's Stunt Double Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 824	you can swap the plug wires on the cap (easy) or pull the distributor and stab it 180 out (hard). Can't tell you how many times I've done that over the last mumble mumble years. C.J. __________________ Dad said, "Sometimes you read Job...sometimes you ARE Job!"

January 11th, 2007, 12:46 AM	#6 (permalink)
texasred Tom Servo's Stunt Double Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 824	MUCH better info and MUCH better explaination. Thanks, Mitsu! C.J. __________________ Dad said, "Sometimes you read Job...sometimes you ARE Job!"

January 11th, 2007, 12:24 PM	#8 (permalink)
texasred Tom Servo's Stunt Double Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: San Antonio, Texas Posts: 824	GOOD DEAL! Is the exhaust manifold or header bolted on the head and just the exhaust pipe unhooked? No problem...other than your hearing! You can also time it with the exhaust coming straight out of the head...but you run the risk of damaging valves and seats because of the temperature change. C.J. __________________ Dad said, "Sometimes you read Job...sometimes you ARE Job!"

January 9th, 2007, 09:08 PM	#3 (permalink)
jd75 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 28	by putting the distributor 180 out i should move the rotor 180? and then should i move all plug wires over 180 also? and thanks for the quick reply earlier i didnt expect a responce that soon.

January 10th, 2007, 08:36 PM	#5 (permalink)
mitsudave Member Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Palm Bay, FL Posts: 53	First make sure your firing order is correct (1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2, CCW) and that you are referencing the cylinders correctly (drivers side 1-3-5-7 front to back, pass side 2-4-6-8 front to back). If that's OK and the car still won't run, then leave the dist and rotor alone and move all your plug wires 4 posts CCW...effectively putting the timing 180 degrees off from what it is now. If that doesn't work, you may have the distributor in wrong.

January 11th, 2007, 12:20 PM	#7 (permalink)
jd75 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 28	i finally had a chance to try again, and thanks guys it fired right up. alll those times i tried by starting from scratch with everything unhooked i was always on the exhaust tdc. a piece of hose shooting across the garage works wonders. one other question, i have the exhaust unhooked from where it dumps down and was wondering if its possible to still set the timing with a light accurately? thanks again for the how to's.

January 11th, 2007, 08:04 PM	#9 (permalink)
jd75 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Posts: 28	i just have the pipes unbolted from the manifold getting ready to lift the motor and clean out the oil pan and probably change out the pump. from what ive read that looks like a frustrating weekend. worth it though. but first im gonna let it run for a while and get the timing close, my neighbors gonna love that. thanks again for the info & this is a great site!

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