cutlasssupreme71

Hi everybody,

I am thinking about to buy a universal wiring harness either from Eb+y or summitracing.....

Has anyone used and or installed some similar harness and how does it work from installing to functionality????
How do they fit a cutlass????

Here are some links....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/CUTLA...Q5fAccessories

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-890021/

Thanks
Torsten

svnt442

If you are just loking to save money I don't think I'd do it. I know the correct harnesses are not cheap, but they are worth it. About 8 months ago I replaced the two main harnesses under my hood and I couldn't be happier.
They came from this place ( http://www.wiringharness.com/ ) and are very good quality.

2blu442

I installed a complete bumper to bumper setup from "painless wiring" and found it very painful!!! It took a long time to run the wires, cut to length, and install the connectors.

I would encourage you to bite the bullet and use factory replacement harnesses. In the long run it will make life easier for you. John

cutlasssupreme71

Thanks for your reply guys!!!!

Thats what i thought ....

Thanks for the link svnt442, i found nothing like that before...

I will have no problem, by cutting the length and installing the connectors and switches, but if the connectors are wrong, cables i really need, are missing and so on, then i dont want to save some money.....

I will contact wiringharness.com for the correct harness and a shipping quote...

Well thanks again guys!!!

Torsten

redoldsman

This may be an alternative for you.

http://www.hotrodwires.com/

I have one of their harnesses. I have had it for several years and bought it for a Chevy pickup I am not going to do. I will use it on my 57 Chevy whenever I get started on it. I bought it at a swapmeet and this guy really knows his stuff. He is a very nice guy and you can call him or email him for help. The quality of his stuff is great. It is all color coded for GM which for us is a good thing. I don't know how his prices compare to Painless Wiring but I suspect he is probably less since he doesn't do any advertising in the big name rags.

cutlasssupreme71

Thanks for the link redoldsman,

well im very curious about the harnesses, i will sleep a night over that...

I have another question about the voltage regulator.....

How can i know for sure if i need that Thing....

Ive read about the alternator cable, external and internal voltage regulators....that could me tell what i have?!?!?!

I know about that four-square piece that is mounted on the firewall behind the distributor (i had that regulator in my 71 supreme) i think that is the regulator

I attach a picture from my cutlass and im just wondering what this piece near the brake booster and the fender mounted thing is....

Do i need the regulator or do i have an internal voltage regulator...????!?!?

Thanks for your help!!!!!

Torsten

cutlasssupreme71

another picture,

i think the letters are too small in the first one...

Thanks

Torsten

cutlasssupreme71

Hmm, sorry, forgot the picture..

2blu442

Your alternator does have the built in voltage regulator. The thingy behind the brake booster is a relay. Not sure what it's for on your car, but I know my wagon has a relay there for the power rear window. So I'm guessing if you follow the wires you'll find it goes to a power option of some kind. Someone else may have more information on what this relay is for. John

cutlasssupreme71

Wow,

Thanks, thats what i want to hear...
On monday i will follow the cables and find out where they are routing to....

Thanks for your help!!!!

Torsten

svnt442

I think the relay near the booster is for the blower motor. The one hanging on the drivers side is the horn relay. It has a stud on that that 3 or 4 hot wires connect to and use as a junction block.
Only 442s came from the factory with the internally regulated alternator so your car was converted at some point.

svnt442

And now would be the perfect time to replace your under hood harnesses (if those pictures are current). Getting at the firewall plugs can be a bit of a pin with the fender on. Not impossible, I did it that way, but a pain none the less.

cutlasssupreme71

Thanks svnt442,

Yeah, i really want to throw out (or relocate) the old cables/harness....
This is the current picture from my cutlass right now:

fjross

Another company that does replacement harnesses is called American Auto Wire. I replaced 90% of my entire harness with exact replacement harness from them. The other 10% (mainly the dash harness) were cleaned, re taped and had some new plugs installed. The dash harness needed a new fuse panel box installed from the previous owner using a screw driver/chisel to remove the fuses and a new high beam switch. the cost was very reasonable to refurbish the dash harness than to replace. Any of the harnesses that exit the cab I replaced do to the outside elements or engine heat wear and tare after 37 years. I was very happy with the fit and finish and they also have a few upgrades if you request.

Dave

cutlasssupreme71

Thanks for your help Dave!!!

I want to replace mainly the dash harness....

Ive looked thru all of your links and must say, that are huge prices but i think either i have to replace every cable seperately and spend very lots of time or spend some money and do it in at least half the time....

Well, i will think about it, theres a lot of work before i will step to the wiring

Thank you very much to all of you guys!!!!!

Torsten

joe_padavano

Universal harnesses are one-size-fits-none (well, one size fits a 1969 Camaro...). Everyone I know who has tried to use one on an Olds has been disappointed. Get a good used factory harness, fix the one you have, or get a new exact replacement. You will spend way more time and money getting a universal to work right, particularly behind the dash, than any cost savings.

cutlasssupreme71

Thanks for your reply joe!!!!

Today ive worked on the harness a little bit and i think i will repair everything.....
I get a complete colored wiring diagram, so i think i will pass that!

By the way, i found out what the switch behind the booster is for, he is for the ac!!!! to be precise; the cables move to the ac

THANKS ANYWAY GUYS!!!!

Torsten

My442

Only place to go is M&H

svnt442

Let me throw a suggestion at you. The wire may look in good condition but they are 40 years old. They will not conduct as well as they did when new by a long shot. You will be so much better off replacing them especially now while you have the car all torn apart and you can get at everything.
I replaced my 2 main under hood harnesses because my headlights were dim and I had replaced the connectors with no increase in brightness. The wires were starting to become brittle on top of it. When I unplugged them from the firewall I was shocked to find insulation missing on A LOT of wires about 3 inches from the connector. I know you can see your better than I could, but they are still 40 years old.
When I replaced them my headlights became about 1½ times brighter just by adding the new harnesses. I was shocked at this to say the least because I just didn't expect that.

Mingus

Speaking of headlights, a really good mod for them is to use relays to power them directly from the battery. All newer cars do this so the amperage doesn't travel through the headlight switch. The switches get very hot on old cars, especially if you have upgraded to halogen headlights. The switch actually started smoking on a 68 Camaro I used to own.
The wires to and from the switch were also getting brittle like Randy was talking about.
That was when I first started wiring the lights through a relay. They were also quite a bit brighter afterwards.
Mad Enterprises and others make kits, but they're pretty easy to wire without one.

http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/rly-1.shtml

As for the harness, I think it depends on what you're doing with the car. A friend of mine has a '67 Chevelle with a big stereo, heated power seats, A/C, electric fuel pump etc. We installed a Painless harness with 18 circuits and it was easier than modifying a stock one would have been. If you're going to have mostly stock electrical components I'd definitely go with an exact fit one.
Hope this is some help.