Brake Indicator Light Not Working

[nelsontj]

1970 Olds 442 brake indicator is not working when I press down the parking brake and/or first turn the ignition switch. I tested the bulb (even replaced it with a new one), bulb holder and fuse. They all passed the continuity test. I haven't had any recent work on the car. It was working before today. Any ideas or thoughts?

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by nelsontj

1970 Olds 442 brake indicator is not working when I press down the parking brake and/or first turn the ignition switch. I tested the bulb (even replaced it with a new one), bulb holder and fuse. They all passed the continuity test. I haven't had any recent work on the car. It was working before today. Any ideas or thoughts?

With the key in the RUN position, temporarily remove the wire from the brake distribution block on the frame rail below the master cylinder and ground the wire. The light should come on. If not, and if you are certain the bulb is good, then you have a wiring problem. Either the pin on the printed circuit board on the back of the gauge pack is loose or the wire is broken in the harness.

If the light does come on when tested as above, then the problem is likely the switch on top of the e-brake pedal assembly.

[nelsontj]

Joe (or anyone else),

I found it is a loose connection at the harness to the gauge. I am having trouble getting the wire terminal out of the harness using a paper clip. Any tips, or help, would be greatly appreciated.

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by nelsontj

Joe (or anyone else),

I found it is a loose connection at the harness to the gauge. I am having trouble getting the wire terminal out of the harness using a paper clip. Any tips, or help, would be greatly appreciated.

Sometimes inserting the paper clip will push the lock tang on the terminal into the connector housing, preventing it from coming out. Try pushing on the wire so you preload the terminal forward in the connector housing THEN while holding it there, insert the paper clip to depress the tang. That usually releases it for me.

[Lady72nRob71]

Is it a small paperclip? That or a VERY thin nail will help release the wire. Big paperclips are too fat.
Look in the slot with a flashlight to make sure you are pushing in on the right tab. Whatever you do, do not pull on the wire and push on the nail / clip at the same time. Push nail in first, then pop out wire.
After it is out, bent out the little tab again to make sure the wire stays in.

[nelsontj]

Thanks for your help Joe! You are an invaluable source of information on Oldsmobiles.

[nelsontj]

And you are too Rob. Thanks again everyone!

[nelsontj]

Need help still! I tried paper clip, small nail and even jeweler's screwdrivers and I cannot get the wire out of the connector harness. Is the hole (left side as you are looking at the connector head-on) on the side of each terminal female hole where I stick the paper clip or nail to press down the locking tang? This is all completely new to me. I've never have done this operation. Thank you.

[Yellowstatue]

Tritrinitoluene

[Lady72nRob71]

There would be a small hole (or slot) in the gauge-side of the connector.
Push wire in, insert tool into hole and push it in firmly (usually you can feel it 'pop' a little), and pull wire out.

Can you post a picture of the front (gauge side) of your connector? I could then confirm you are using the right holes. I cannot remember what mine look like (that was the only piece I did not take pictures of...)

[nelsontj]

Rob,
One of our fleet mechanics, from where I work, loaned me some terminal picks today. One was just the right size and it worked like a charm. It is a good example of "the right tool for the job" kind of thing. All that is left is putting in the new sending units. There is an issue of the oil and temp needles pegging when the ignition is first turned on, but I think that issue was addressed in one of the recent issues of OCA's JWO. If you know the fix, let me know. Thanks again for your postings.

[Lady72nRob71]

So why the replacement of the sending units? Are you changing to a Rally Pac? I thought this was just for a brake warning light issue, but I could have missed something...
If changing to gauges, replacing the sending units will help. There will be one small green wire to disconnect from the ignition switch to disable the temp light bulb test feature to prevent pegging of the temp gauge when cranking the engine.

Right tool for the right job is right! I have one odd-sized skinny long nail i set aside just for terminal releasing!

[nelsontj]

I guess I did confuse everyone. What started with the brake indicator light problem turned into changing the warning light gauges to a rallye pac gauge unit I had sitting around. I figured since I had everything apart I may as well install the gauge system. The temperature gauge "pegging" has me curious. I have a 1996 Buick Roadmaster station wagon and a 1992 Chevrolet Lumina Euro, which both have temperature gauges that "peg." I have never had any problems with the needles on the gauges and they have been started many, many more times than my 1970 Oldsmobile 442 has. Why would the needle on the latter be any more sensitive than the needles on the former?