Fuseable link replacement with fuse

gearhead1218 · July 16th, 2009, 07:25 PM

Traced my wiring and realized the link off the horn relay is cooked.
That line feeds a number of cicuits.
Anyone know what size fuse I should use to eliminate the link?????
I just found a nice 30 amp holder with a fuse in my parts, and was wondering if that's big enough or too big.

gearhead1218 · July 19th, 2009, 07:02 AM

Anyone ???????

Lady72nRob71 · July 19th, 2009, 09:43 AM

The fusible link powers everything that comes right off the fuse box.
The 72 Cutlass uses a short section of 16 gauge wire as a fusible link.
How long is yours? I do not recommend a 30A fuse, even a slow-blow. Current through there is probably more like 40A with all accy's on. Check with some of the local parts stores to see if they carry fusible links. It will need to be spliced in and securely soldered in place.

Hope this helps some...

svnt442 · July 19th, 2009, 12:27 PM

I agree. Using a fuse is a bad idea. THe rate at which a fuse blows is much different from a fusable link.

Another thought is what is the condition of the rest of the wiring? What caused the link to blow in the first place?

My 39 year old harness was (how should I put this) SHOT!! I had no clue just how bad until I pulled it off to install the new one.

Lady72nRob71 · July 19th, 2009, 12:45 PM

Good point above - what cuased the meltdown?
You could use the fuse and holder you have to help isolate and eliminate the short that caused the FL to blow. Fuses are easy to replace, After the short is opened, install the correct FL.

gearhead1218 · July 19th, 2009, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71

Good point above - what cuased the meltdown?
You could use the fuse and holder you have to help isolate and eliminate the short that caused the FL to blow. Fuses are easy to replace, After the short is opened, install the correct FL.

Good points made.
I don't know what caused the meltdown. I'm thinking something done by the PO. The heating circuit is now eliminated from the car, and it appears to be properly disconnected.
The only real HOKEY thing that I haven't checked is the Auto-meter Tach that is set into the dash next to the speedo. Maybe something shorted in the dash cluster when he mounted the tach.
I think I'll use the 30 amp set-up for now, then trace the rest of the circuits that is fed off that line for the fault.

July 16th, 2009, 07:25 PM	#1 (permalink)
gearhead1218 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Palmyra, NY Posts: 116	Fuseable link replacement with fuse Traced my wiring and realized the link off the horn relay is cooked. That line feeds a number of cicuits. Anyone know what size fuse I should use to eliminate the link????? I just found a nice 30 amp holder with a fuse in my parts, and was wondering if that's big enough or too big. __________________ John Castelli 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1969 Mercury Cougar Convertible 2003 Chevy Siverado 2003 Chevy Trailblazer 2007 Chevy Impala

July 19th, 2009, 07:02 AM	#2 (permalink)
gearhead1218 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Palmyra, NY Posts: 116	Anyone ??????? __________________ John Castelli 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 1969 Mercury Cougar Convertible 2003 Chevy Siverado 2003 Chevy Trailblazer 2007 Chevy Impala

July 19th, 2009, 09:43 AM	#3 (permalink)
Lady72nRob71 Moderator Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Plano, TX Posts: 1,916	The fusible link powers everything that comes right off the fuse box. The 72 Cutlass uses a short section of 16 gauge wire as a fusible link. How long is yours? I do not recommend a 30A fuse, even a slow-blow. Current through there is probably more like 40A with all accy's on. Check with some of the local parts stores to see if they carry fusible links. It will need to be spliced in and securely soldered in place. Hope this helps some... __________________ -Rob Young 1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...) http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets/ 1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine" 1978 Ford (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp" 1997 Cadillac STS (for sale - too many cars!) 1999 Harley Davidson Sportster - "the Freedom Machine"

July 19th, 2009, 12:27 PM	#4 (permalink)
svnt442 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: San Jose, CA Posts: 453	I agree. Using a fuse is a bad idea. THe rate at which a fuse blows is much different from a fusable link. Another thought is what is the condition of the rest of the wiring? What caused the link to blow in the first place? My 39 year old harness was (how should I put this) SHOT!! I had no clue just how bad until I pulled it off to install the new one. __________________ Randy 1970 442

July 19th, 2009, 12:45 PM	#5 (permalink)
Lady72nRob71 Moderator Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Plano, TX Posts: 1,916	Good point above - what cuased the meltdown? You could use the fuse and holder you have to help isolate and eliminate the short that caused the FL to blow. Fuses are easy to replace, After the short is opened, install the correct FL. __________________ -Rob Young 1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...) http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets/ 1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine" 1978 Ford (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp" 1997 Cadillac STS (for sale - too many cars!) 1999 Harley Davidson Sportster - "the Freedom Machine"

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