Repair gauges for my 69 442

[ctreutel]

None of the gauges are functioning on my 442. [I did get the speedo to work...but that's mechanical]...If I reach underneath and jiggle the wires, I get some of the lights working.

After removing the gauges from the dash [that was no picnic!], it's apparent that the pins in the back are loose and probably the cause of my probelems. My question is this:
Do I need to buy all new gauges? or is there a place to send them in for repair? They look like they're in good shape except for the loose pins.

If I have to buy new ones, any idea where to get them?

Thanks for your help

[Oldsguy]

If you can find a good electronics repair shop (harder to find now) they should be able to repair/re-solder the pins to the circuit board. Check for a place that repairs radios/stereos/tv's/etc.

Moving this to electrical forum.

[weasel]

I must have bought my 442 about the same time you got yours...mid-June. In getting familiar with the car, I also found out that none of the original gauges work except the speedometer and odometer. A previous owner had mounted a 3-gauge panel under the dash (ammeter, oil pres., engine temp) either because the originals crapped out or because he wanted more than idiot-lights. Either way 2 of the 3 didn't work. Also the fuel gauge doesn't work. Not know how much fuel I have, and no oil press. or engine temp is unacceptable, so I am in the process of putting a 4-panel gauge cluster together. New fuel tank sending unit on order, awaiting new gauges, etc. All these gauges are electric.

If you are going to repair the original gauges you won't have the problem I have run into on matching the ohm rating of the sending units to the gauges. It's darn hard to find out this info when ordering gauges. I think the original '69 Olds sending units were 0-90 ohm, but I don't know the ohm rating on what's under my hood now. This has been pretty frustrating.

Anyway, unless you want gauges that give you actual operating data instead of the warning lights, you may not have the problems I have had. Anyone answering this thread that can shed some light on the issue, and maybe give recommendations regarding gauges vs. warning lights, would be appreciated.

Nice looking 442 you have! Have some fun fixin' her up.

[Allan R]

Originally Posted by ctreutel

None of the gauges are functioning on my 442. [I did get the speedo to work...but that's mechanical]...If I reach underneath and jiggle the wires, I get some of the lights working.

After removing the gauges from the dash [that was no picnic!], it's apparent that the pins in the back are loose and probably the cause of my probelems. My question is this:
Do I need to buy all new gauges? or is there a place to send them in for repair? They look like they're in good shape except for the loose pins.

If I have to buy new ones, any idea where to get them?

Thanks for your help

Don't know if you have solved your problem with this issue, but here's 2 things.

1. You can get repro gauges for the 68/69 rallye pac from Fusick Automotive and Parts Place. The cost about 430.00 but they're new and come as the tach/clock and gauges set.

2. There's a guy on ebay that goes by the name "Gaugetweeker". His store is called Red Line Gauge and Clock Repair, and he's in Humboldt TN. Don't know where you are, but you can judge the distance. He has done work for me. Had the rallye pac clock/tach redone and it works flawlessly. Nice workmanship, very reasonable price. (you have to ship it both ways though). Here is his web link: http://myworld.ebay.ca/gaugetweeker/ You can contact him if you want and get some details.

[rcorrigan5]

I had the same problem with my '68 442. When I removed the gauge pod, some of the pins on the printed circuit were real loose. I had heard that they can be soldered back into place but I also know that would take a person with some real skill - too much heat on that printed circuit will toast it. I noticed that, from the back side of the printed circuit, those pins are hollow. What I did was go to a model airplane store and I bought some very small (2mm), fine thread screws. They were just the right size that they would self thread and screw into the back sides of the loose pins and snug them up real nice. My gauges have worked perfectly since then. It was a somewhat tedious job, but it worked.