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I have learned that there are oil pressure operated switches, that are used for:
- To control electric choke and oil pressure warning light. Here one of the pins works like normal one post oil pressure light sensor (grounds the pin when oil pressure is on), and other two are normally open and closes when oil pressure is on (this pair controls choke).
- As a safety switch for electric fuel pump. Here you have one normally closed and one normally open contact, if I get it right.
Are those two really different switches or is it the same type of switch used to both purposes? If they are different components, are the P/N #:s available from someone?
Only thing confusing for me is, are those mentioned PS127 and PS64 different to each other in function, or are they just old and new P/N?
They are different in function. PS127 has two separate SPST switches internally, one that connects the center terminal (for the OIL light) to ground when pressure is below 4 psi and a separate switch that connects the two outboard terminals to each other above 7 psi.
PS64 has a one SPDT switch internally. One terminal (the P terminal) that connects to the pump. This is connected to the center terminal when there is no oil pressure. The center terminal is connected to the S wire on the starter to power the pump during cranking (before there is oil pressure) to "prime" the carb. Once oil pressure exceeds about 7psi, the P terminal is switched to the other outside terminal, which is connected to a +12v source that is hot in the RUN position. This keeps the pump operating so long as there is oil pressure.
They are different in function. PS127 has two separate SPST switches internally, one that connects the center terminal (for the OIL light) to ground when pressure is below 4 psi and a separate switch that connects the two outboard terminals to each other above 7 psi.
PS64 has a one SPDT switch internally. One terminal (the P terminal) that connects to the pump. This is connected to the center terminal when there is no oil pressure. The center terminal is connected to the S wire on the starter to power the pump during cranking (before there is oil pressure) to "prime" the carb. Once oil pressure exceeds about 7psi, the P terminal is switched to the other outside terminal, which is connected to a +12v source that is hot in the RUN position. This keeps the pump operating so long as there is oil pressure.
Many thanks, Joe! This must also mean that cars originally equipped with PS64 controlling the fuel pump, must have had separate sensor for oil light.
Many thanks, Joe! This must also mean that cars originally equipped with PS64 controlling the fuel pump, must have had separate sensor for oil light.
The original application for the PS64 was the fuel pump on the Vega. I know the 1972 Vega I owned (take it easy... I put a 215 in it ) had gauges, but it was a GT model.
The original application for the PS64 was the fuel pump on the Vega. I know the 1972 Vega I owned (take it easy... I put a 215 in it ) had gauges, but it was a GT model.
Vega GT with Olds aluminium V8 sounds good to me even today! What trans did you use? I have seen couple of Vegas here in Finland equipped with Gen1 sbo.
Funny thing, 215 Olds/Buick alum. v8 engine is better known here in Europe as Rover engine. It has been a popular engine to swap in earlier years to many cars here, Volvo's, 240Z:s and so on. Light weight and small dimensions. Sorry, went a bit siderails/off-topic
Vega GT with Olds aluminium V8 sounds good to me even today! What trans did you use? I have seen couple of Vegas here in Finland equipped with Gen1 sbo.
Funny thing, 215 Olds/Buick alum. v8 engine is better known here in Europe as Rover engine. It has been a popular engine to swap in earlier years to many cars here, Volvo's, 240Z:s and so on. Light weight and small dimensions. Sorry, went a bit siderails/off-topic
This was back in the 1980s. I used the D&D kit with motor mounts and an adapter plate to the stock Vega TH250. The kit also included a custom oil pan and pickup. The fully dressed 215 weighed 20 lbs more than the Vega four cylinder motor (about 320 lbs total vs. 300 for the four banger).
While the BOPR aluminum motor is sort of the "small block Chevy" of the UK, GM actually built more of them in three years of production than Rover did in nearly four decades. Kind of gives you an idea of the differences in production scale between GM and Rover. And I do now have a 4.6 liter short block to go into my 62 F-85. Amazingly, Rover fixed many of the shortcomings of the original 215 design, including the block casting porosity and the addition of cross bolted main caps.
This was back in the 1980s. I used the D&D kit with motor mounts and an adapter plate to the stock Vega TH250. The kit also included a custom oil pan and pickup. The fully dressed 215 weighed 20 lbs more than the Vega four cylinder motor (about 320 lbs total vs. 300 for the four banger).
While the BOPR aluminum motor is sort of the "small block Chevy" of the UK, GM actually built more of them in three years of production than Rover did in nearly four decades. Kind of gives you an idea of the differences in production scale between GM and Rover. And I do now have a 4.6 liter short block to go into my 62 F-85. Amazingly, Rover fixed many of the shortcomings of the original 215 design, including the block casting porosity and the addition of cross bolted main caps.
That sounds like an interesting Project. Does the U.K.4.6 still have the motor mounts similar to original 215? And how about the bellhousing bolt pattern? Are you planning to keep it fuel injected?
That sounds like an interesting Project. Does the U.K.4.6 still have the motor mounts similar to original 215? And how about the bellhousing bolt pattern? Are you planning to keep it fuel injected?
Yes, the Rover motors are pretty much bolt-in replacements. The biggest external difference is the front cover. The serpentine motors have a different water pump cavity for the reverse rotation. I believe it is also higher up. The DIS motors eliminated the distributor provision from the front cover, and with that the oil pump moved to a crank-driven gearrotor design. You can retrofit the early cover onto the later motors to retain a distributor and conventional oil pump (though you need to fit a distributor drive gear to the front of the cam).
I'm undecided on the EFI yet. I do have the complete GEMS style intake setup. Frankly, I'd rather find an old Hilborn injection system (that didn't cost a small fortune) and convert that to EFI. Might also go with a TBI system to retain the stock air cleaner for optical reasons.
March 21st, 2017, 01:46 AM
) had gauges, but it was a GT model.
