Resistor wire to Distributor
#1
Resistor wire to Distributor
Hi All,
Swapped out the point distributors on my 69 and 70 cutlasses and never realized the need to replace the resistor wire to the HEI unit. Although I've never had any performance issues, I'm feeling that I should address the issue. My question is where is the source of that wire (where do I find it's starting point to replace it with a new wire ). As well what gauge wire should be used ?
Thanks,
John C.
Swapped out the point distributors on my 69 and 70 cutlasses and never realized the need to replace the resistor wire to the HEI unit. Although I've never had any performance issues, I'm feeling that I should address the issue. My question is where is the source of that wire (where do I find it's starting point to replace it with a new wire ). As well what gauge wire should be used ?
Thanks,
John C.
#2
It runs to the bulkhead connector on the firewall. There are a few ways to do this. You can fire a relay off the resistance wire. You can remove and replace the wire with a 12ga wire. You can run a separate 12ga wire from the ign terminal at the fuse box. If your not using the resistance wire you can just cap and stow it in the harness for future use if required.
#4
I'm thinking of running a new wire from the "IGN" terminal at the fuse box through the firewall and to the "BAT" terminal on the HEI Cap and capping off and hiding the originals. Correct me if I'm wrong however. Along with the new wire, I must include the wire from the starter in order for the car to start. The theory that when ignition is in the "RUN" position the "IGN" terminal at the fuse box is dead until the key is released.
#5
I don't think that's an issue with a 70 model. You can double check with a voltmeter to see if you have voltage in both the start and run position of the ignition switch. If you don't have voltage in the start position then use the bypass wire off the starter, if you do then just cap and stow the 2 original wires that are tied together with the terminal.
#6
Will double check with meter, however I think I can confirm that it switches off when in start position. I have my in dash volt meter connected as well to that terminal and when the key is in start position the gauge shuts down until it starts.
#8
Ken,
I failed to mention to Eric that the issue about also needing the bypass wire from the starter to initially start the car is with my '69 not my '70. I swapped out my '70 as well and did not replace the resistor wire there either. I'll have to check to see if the starter wire will be needed as well to start. Eager to see if there is any noticeable difference in performance with the addition of 3+ volts !
Thanks, John
_______________________________________________
1932 F Model 4 DR. Dual Side Mounted Deluxe Sedan
1937 L Model 4 Dr. Touring Sedan - All Olds Resto-Rod ( 10.25 to 1 '70 350 ci. )
1962 Starfire Convertible
1969 Cutlass S Convertible 350 ci.
1970 Cutlass Supreme 455 ci.
I failed to mention to Eric that the issue about also needing the bypass wire from the starter to initially start the car is with my '69 not my '70. I swapped out my '70 as well and did not replace the resistor wire there either. I'll have to check to see if the starter wire will be needed as well to start. Eager to see if there is any noticeable difference in performance with the addition of 3+ volts !
Thanks, John
_______________________________________________
1932 F Model 4 DR. Dual Side Mounted Deluxe Sedan
1937 L Model 4 Dr. Touring Sedan - All Olds Resto-Rod ( 10.25 to 1 '70 350 ci. )
1962 Starfire Convertible
1969 Cutlass S Convertible 350 ci.
1970 Cutlass Supreme 455 ci.
#9
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Demond's Muscle Car
Electrical
33
November 30th, 2014 05:17 PM
72cuttys
General Questions
23
March 28th, 2014 04:14 PM
dan2286
Parts For Sale
0
February 5th, 2009 06:42 PM