The stuck 394 saga
October 3rd, 2016, 05:51 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 15
The stuck 394 saga
Hey guys:
I haven't posted much, but I wanted to share my ongoing mission to unstick the engine in my '63 Dynamic.
Condensed backstory, car sat many years up north, covered but undriven after a moderate fender bender in 1969. I bought it via eBay..cheap, and got it here to find out it was stuck for unknown reasons.
I soaked it on and on and on with a magic potion I made up of atf, diesel-kleen, rislone and a couple other "secret" ingredients..lol. No dice, still stuck. No amount of leaning on the crank bolt or bumping the starter budged it. This isn't one of those as seen on TV situations where they dump a little atf in, barely pull on the breaker bar and it moves, after which they all cheer and high-five each other. This thing is STUCK.
So, I decided that drastic measures where called for, so after removing the bent-up front end to increase access, I pulled the engine down to the short-block to meet my enemy face to face.
The first bit of good news was that there were no stuck valves, no bent pushrods. The second bit of good news was that when I got the heads off, I saw shiny cylinders...to a point.
What happened is...evidently snow blew in on top of the air cleaner and ran down the stud into the intake once it melted and created about a 2 inch puddle in each cylinder with an open intake valve. The worst part is that the water or whatever it is, hope it wasn't antifreeze...stood in the cylinders so long that it corroded the crown of the pistons slightly.
However, instead of having a pity party, I decided to go after this thing and see if I can get it unstuck without having to resort to pulling it, and beating the pistons out by force. I'm going to pull it anyway and see if the cylinders will clean up with a hone but I really want the gratification of making it rotate beforehand.
My first idea worked pretty well, which was use some Rustoleum Rust remover, which is a variation of Evaporust...just not the same kind of process. RRR contains acid, the Evaporust does not.
That cleaned the small portions of rust off the cylinders and left them smooth, other than the expected small pits. However, that combined with subsequent therapy with PB Blaster, more magic potion, mini-sledge and wood block, floor jack pushing up on breaker bar while bumping the starter has gained me nothing.
What has to happen at this point is I need to come up with something very thin that will creep down past the pistons and attack the rust that is still bonding the pistons to the cylinder. Not sure that's correctly called galvanic corrosion, but the end result is what has happened.
So, I'm all ears if someone has a tip. Remember..this thing has laughed at off the shelf stuff. I really don't want to scrap this engine because it's only got 52,000 miles, and the cylinders are fine otherwise, no ridge.
Thanks for reading!
I haven't posted much, but I wanted to share my ongoing mission to unstick the engine in my '63 Dynamic.
Condensed backstory, car sat many years up north, covered but undriven after a moderate fender bender in 1969. I bought it via eBay..cheap, and got it here to find out it was stuck for unknown reasons.
I soaked it on and on and on with a magic potion I made up of atf, diesel-kleen, rislone and a couple other "secret" ingredients..lol. No dice, still stuck. No amount of leaning on the crank bolt or bumping the starter budged it. This isn't one of those as seen on TV situations where they dump a little atf in, barely pull on the breaker bar and it moves, after which they all cheer and high-five each other. This thing is STUCK.
So, I decided that drastic measures where called for, so after removing the bent-up front end to increase access, I pulled the engine down to the short-block to meet my enemy face to face.
The first bit of good news was that there were no stuck valves, no bent pushrods. The second bit of good news was that when I got the heads off, I saw shiny cylinders...to a point.
What happened is...evidently snow blew in on top of the air cleaner and ran down the stud into the intake once it melted and created about a 2 inch puddle in each cylinder with an open intake valve. The worst part is that the water or whatever it is, hope it wasn't antifreeze...stood in the cylinders so long that it corroded the crown of the pistons slightly.
However, instead of having a pity party, I decided to go after this thing and see if I can get it unstuck without having to resort to pulling it, and beating the pistons out by force. I'm going to pull it anyway and see if the cylinders will clean up with a hone but I really want the gratification of making it rotate beforehand.
My first idea worked pretty well, which was use some Rustoleum Rust remover, which is a variation of Evaporust...just not the same kind of process. RRR contains acid, the Evaporust does not.
That cleaned the small portions of rust off the cylinders and left them smooth, other than the expected small pits. However, that combined with subsequent therapy with PB Blaster, more magic potion, mini-sledge and wood block, floor jack pushing up on breaker bar while bumping the starter has gained me nothing.
What has to happen at this point is I need to come up with something very thin that will creep down past the pistons and attack the rust that is still bonding the pistons to the cylinder. Not sure that's correctly called galvanic corrosion, but the end result is what has happened.
So, I'm all ears if someone has a tip. Remember..this thing has laughed at off the shelf stuff. I really don't want to scrap this engine because it's only got 52,000 miles, and the cylinders are fine otherwise, no ridge.
Thanks for reading!
October 3rd, 2016, 07:33 PM
#2
Proud Viet Nam Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Rowlett, TX
Posts: 9,945
One thought may be to pull the engine, turn it upside down and pull the pan. Then you can fill the bottom side of each cylinder with your special solution and let it soak. I haven't had to use it but lots of guys use a mixture of 50/50 ATF and acetone. I don't know if this idea makes any sense but it is just a thought before you have to get out the big hammer.
October 3rd, 2016, 08:00 PM
#3
Phantom Phixer
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Apopka, FL
Posts: 4,668
I've dealt with several "stuck" engines over the years .
I can tell you this , don't count on using this engine without a complete overhaul. Including boring the cylinders and new pistons . the rust you can't see right now between the pistons and cylinder walls is going to be the big problem .
My suggestion is to remove the engine from the car , remove the crankshaft if possible , and drive the stuck pistons out with a piece of oak 4x4 and a sledgehammer.
I can tell you this , don't count on using this engine without a complete overhaul. Including boring the cylinders and new pistons . the rust you can't see right now between the pistons and cylinder walls is going to be the big problem .
My suggestion is to remove the engine from the car , remove the crankshaft if possible , and drive the stuck pistons out with a piece of oak 4x4 and a sledgehammer.
October 3rd, 2016, 08:41 PM
#4
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 2,996
Turning the engine upside down and soaking it is a good idea as it will also allow filling the bottom side of the pistons. Part of the seizing may be in the wrist pins.
Removing the crank would also help by allowing you to work on the pistons individually. Removing the crank may not be possible depending on its position. Protect the crank journals while trying to work the crank out if you go that route.
Warming of the pistons with a heat gun may also help to draw/wick the penetrating oil in when they cool.
Good luck and keep us posted, it will be interesting to see where the seizure was located.
Removing the crank would also help by allowing you to work on the pistons individually. Removing the crank may not be possible depending on its position. Protect the crank journals while trying to work the crank out if you go that route.
Warming of the pistons with a heat gun may also help to draw/wick the penetrating oil in when they cool.
Good luck and keep us posted, it will be interesting to see where the seizure was located.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
