1968 SD code rear end- easy to remove posi carrier?
#1
1968 SD code rear end- easy to remove posi carrier?
Gentlemen- please pardon my potentially stupid question. i've never worked on a rear end other than changing fluids.
I picked up a 68 cutlass parts car with an SD code rear end. If i have my facts straight this is a 3.08 posi. I currently have a '68 442 with an s4 single leg 3.08 rear end.
If possible- I'd like to quickly remove what I need to update my car to posi and then send the parts car off to its new owner. What is involved in removing the posi carrier? special tools, pullers, axle removal? Do I need to remove any other parts for the posi swap?
I'll be working in cramped quarters, off site and would like to avoid a major cluster F if possible.
Thanks for any guidance.
I picked up a 68 cutlass parts car with an SD code rear end. If i have my facts straight this is a 3.08 posi. I currently have a '68 442 with an s4 single leg 3.08 rear end.
If possible- I'd like to quickly remove what I need to update my car to posi and then send the parts car off to its new owner. What is involved in removing the posi carrier? special tools, pullers, axle removal? Do I need to remove any other parts for the posi swap?
I'll be working in cramped quarters, off site and would like to avoid a major cluster F if possible.
Thanks for any guidance.
#2
Gentlemen- please pardon my potentially stupid question. i've never worked on a rear end other than changing fluids.
I picked up a 68 cutlass parts car with an SD code rear end. If i have my facts straight this is a 3.08 posi. I currently have a '68 442 with an s4 single leg 3.08 rear end.
If possible- I'd like to quickly remove what I need to update my car to posi and then send the parts car off to its new owner. What is involved in removing the posi carrier? special tools, pullers, axle removal? Do I need to remove any other parts for the posi swap?
I'll be working in cramped quarters, off site and would like to avoid a major cluster F if possible.
Thanks for any guidance.
I picked up a 68 cutlass parts car with an SD code rear end. If i have my facts straight this is a 3.08 posi. I currently have a '68 442 with an s4 single leg 3.08 rear end.
If possible- I'd like to quickly remove what I need to update my car to posi and then send the parts car off to its new owner. What is involved in removing the posi carrier? special tools, pullers, axle removal? Do I need to remove any other parts for the posi swap?
I'll be working in cramped quarters, off site and would like to avoid a major cluster F if possible.
Thanks for any guidance.
I would seek out user name "monzaz"
unfortunately don't have his name but he from what I understand is really knowledgeable re rears
Dean
#3
Gentlemen- please pardon my potentially stupid question. i've never worked on a rear end other than changing fluids.
I picked up a 68 cutlass parts car with an SD code rear end. If i have my facts straight this is a 3.08 posi. I currently have a '68 442 with an s4 single leg 3.08 rear end.
If possible- I'd like to quickly remove what I need to update my car to posi and then send the parts car off to its new owner. What is involved in removing the posi carrier? special tools, pullers, axle removal? Do I need to remove any other parts for the posi swap?
I'll be working in cramped quarters, off site and would like to avoid a major cluster F if possible.
Thanks for any guidance.
I picked up a 68 cutlass parts car with an SD code rear end. If i have my facts straight this is a 3.08 posi. I currently have a '68 442 with an s4 single leg 3.08 rear end.
If possible- I'd like to quickly remove what I need to update my car to posi and then send the parts car off to its new owner. What is involved in removing the posi carrier? special tools, pullers, axle removal? Do I need to remove any other parts for the posi swap?
I'll be working in cramped quarters, off site and would like to avoid a major cluster F if possible.
Thanks for any guidance.
But if you want to take out thecarrier you will need to pull axles , drive shaft yoke , etc, do you have a chasis manual? You might need a slide puller for the axles, were you just planning on bolting the axles into the empty case?
Make sure you keep each sides shims together it will be important
#5
Dean, I rebuilt my 3.08 posi awhile back, it was my first time and yes monzaz is the man hes at jdrace www.jdrace.com, that is where I bought the clutches bearings etc if shamusj is interested I did document the build in my resto thread but definately jim is the man..
#8
Got it- thanks for setting me straight. I'll pull the entire rear end monster and sell the body shell as a crippled non roller.
Thanks for keeping me out of trouble- spacers, teeth alignment….definitely not to be messed with.
Thanks for keeping me out of trouble- spacers, teeth alignment….definitely not to be messed with.
#10
just roll yours right back under it, some quick bolts and its still a roller
#11
Stan, there is the Brake union, not sure the conditions of the OP's drums, Wheel Cylinders Brakes, bushings, etc, But that is how I would approach it as well...
On that note; Shamusj, it would be the time to change all those items or at least inspect,
I changed all the bushings in the upper and lower control arms, the axle seals, bearings, pinion seal, springs, shocks, isolators... etc you will never have a better chance.
if you look at the first few pages of my build thread I believe most of the work has been detailed
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ertible-1.html
#12
it is also possible to pull the axles
loosen the brake assemblies including backing plate
unhook brake lines from the differential
leave the brakes undisturbed and on the car
swap out rear end assembly
If rust is an issue where you live, the bolts can be rusted tight in the center sleeve of the control arm bushings and give trouble. cut them off if need be.
loosen the brake assemblies including backing plate
unhook brake lines from the differential
leave the brakes undisturbed and on the car
swap out rear end assembly
If rust is an issue where you live, the bolts can be rusted tight in the center sleeve of the control arm bushings and give trouble. cut them off if need be.
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