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#1 (permalink) |
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feed the pig
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Central Missouri
Posts: 170
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housing bushings
How would you install new bushings in the rear end housing? This nifty tool is available but don't want to purchase it for this one time. Can I do it with common garage tools? Maybe a ball joint tool?
http://www.hrpartsandstuff.com/produ...ushingtool.htm
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1971 Cutlass S 455/th400 3.23 rear---new interior allmost done. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 1,686
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The low-buck but messy way to R&R the bushings is to burn out the rubber with a propane torch then collapse the metal housing with a punch and sledge hammer. The new bushings simply get hammered in with an appropriately-sized socket or piece of pipe. I've done dozens of bushings this way. Do your rubber burning outdoors, however. The black smoke and gooey mess will stink up your garage for weeks (DON'T ask me how I know this...
).
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Joe Padavano 64 Jetstar 88 Conv 66 442 L-69 Conv 68 W-30 69 H/O 69 442 70 W-30 72 442 84 Custom Cruiser 86 Caprice wagon (w/307 Olds) |
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#3 (permalink) |
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feed the pig
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Central Missouri
Posts: 170
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I wanted to give an update and thanks to Joe. I did'nt have a a socket big ehough I thought would work so.......
I installed my upper rear end busings over the weekend. UMI Performance is where I purchased my new upper and lower control arms. They were supplied from UMI with energy suspension instructions. Poly graphite? I don't know, don't care. Black in color with "specks" of something impregnated in them. Observation: The OD was measured with calipers at 1.855" The ID of the housing ear was 1.845" a tight fit you might say. I put the bushings in the freezer. Made sure the housing was clean, no burrs no paint and lubed. Pounded them in with a 3 lb. hammer with a block of wood up to the "step". Took a few whacks, but got them in. I will be using the enclosed thrust washers, (thick plastic). Supposed to control the walking side to side....yada yada.... Can't wait to get this new rear installled.
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1971 Cutlass S 455/th400 3.23 rear---new interior allmost done. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 15
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I just installed my bushings two days ago and would like to add to above post. I used the same method, except I found my piece of wood...(old spruce two by four) absorbed too much striking power. Switched to a piece of "hardwood", and things went much better.Hope this may help someone.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Richfield, Oh
Posts: 100
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bushings
anyway you can crush the bushing steel sleeve and usually a dead blow hammer works great. Air chisel has a bit for this also which really makes life easy but you said back yard right?? lol. so after you get them out deburr the ear inner diameter of everything paint rust and metal burrs from beatinging and pounding. then oil the out side of the bushing metal sleeve and the inner diameter of the ear and take a dead blow hammer and try to keep the bushing as straight as possible into the bore and when striking the bushing.
Why dead blow? It has shot and will have more driving force with less bounce back...your force goes into the bushing not into shocking the housing or your arm. Just keep controled blows and do not go over board. Usually the bigger dead blow the better. IF it does not seem to go in or is tough you probably have the bush cocked a bit so try strikeing the bushing at different angles or edges that might free up the hang-up you might run into. Hope all these threads help you out. Be confident but cautious too. Go for it and enjoy the hobby. Once you have accoplished the install you'll feel pretty good. Jim |
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