Driveshaft Question
#41
Just spoke with AJ @ Southwest Speed, very knowledgeable dood, thought Id spread the word. He was explaining that the width of the ujoint end caps that go into the yoke compared to the end width of them would determine what yoke I need. All T400 yokes are 32 spline and seal widths are the same, period. I will be remeasuring everything tonight to get the precise measurements. 1 1/16" Ujoint end cap at a yoke cap-to-cap width measurement of 3 5/8"s would mean I have either a 1330 or 3R Olds joint as you guys might have mentioned already. This measurement can easily be confused with the 1 1/8" end cap which means I have a 1350 or possibly 1330special, not sure so dont quote me on that. I just gotta make 100% sure, if thats exactly what i have then he says If thats true, i would then have only 2 yoke arrangements/possibilities, a short 4.5" splined yoke and the long 6.25" splined yoke. Makes sense now. Only thing to do now is remove/press out the joints without damaging the needle bearings in the caps and measure... have a great day gentlemen!
#44
Needle bearings aren't affected while driving out - and who cares, anyway - garbage!!
With the new ones, I always use more wheel bearing grease to hold them together!
Instructions would be rather long, you're better - off finding it on the net!
U-joints are a piece of cake compared to a manual trans - 2-3 different sizes on steps and you have to install a 10-12 inch shaft to the bottom!!!!!!!!
With the new ones, I always use more wheel bearing grease to hold them together!
Instructions would be rather long, you're better - off finding it on the net!
U-joints are a piece of cake compared to a manual trans - 2-3 different sizes on steps and you have to install a 10-12 inch shaft to the bottom!!!!!!!!
#45
I hammered the end caps off with no issues, everything looks great, thanx!
Im getting a lot closer and really appreciate the help! Since ive got some better measurements I thought I'd share some info, these are more precise, they are as follows:
I measured 3.5" of spline on the output shaft of my T400 transmission.
The yoke and U-Joint I would like to purchase is A 3R to 1310 conversion joint with a 1310 yoke end.
Some official specs:
The Oldsmobile 3R joint has 1 1/8" end caps and gets pressed into a yoke that measures 3 5/8"s from outside of one cap to the other.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
-With my current CHOPPED YOKE I only have 3.5" of spline and the complete yoke measures 5" from middle of cap to the tip of the yoke.
-I measured 1.5" to 1.7" of compression clearance to bottoming on the splines of the output shaft (I hear 1" is all thats needed for compression/launch) is this correct??
-This yoke gives me 2" of spline engagement at ride height (was told you need 2.5"---3"??) is this correct?.
-Which means If I hit a pothole I would have 1.5" till the seal touches the tip of the yoke and 2" until total disengagement.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
-The new yoke has 4.5" of spline and 5.5" from mid cap to tip of yoke.
-This yoke would give me only 1.125" to 1.25" compression clearance before I bottom out on the output shaft splines, is this enough room??
-If I hit a pothole I would have 2" till the tip of the yoke touches the seal and 2.5" til total disengagement. (sounds better)
This new yoke obviously sounds like the better deal, questions are I think my compression measurement is getting cut VERY VERY close but my suspension droop will definitely be MUCH better, any thoughts??
Tomorrow I can/will check how much the yoke comes out of the seal at full suspension droop. If I had access to an alignment rack I would love to check compression of the yoke onto the output shaft by having 4 people sit on the trunk, this sounds too dangerous to do on jackstands right?!
Im getting a lot closer and really appreciate the help! Since ive got some better measurements I thought I'd share some info, these are more precise, they are as follows:
I measured 3.5" of spline on the output shaft of my T400 transmission.
The yoke and U-Joint I would like to purchase is A 3R to 1310 conversion joint with a 1310 yoke end.
Some official specs:
The Oldsmobile 3R joint has 1 1/8" end caps and gets pressed into a yoke that measures 3 5/8"s from outside of one cap to the other.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
-With my current CHOPPED YOKE I only have 3.5" of spline and the complete yoke measures 5" from middle of cap to the tip of the yoke.
-I measured 1.5" to 1.7" of compression clearance to bottoming on the splines of the output shaft (I hear 1" is all thats needed for compression/launch) is this correct??
-This yoke gives me 2" of spline engagement at ride height (was told you need 2.5"---3"??) is this correct?.
-Which means If I hit a pothole I would have 1.5" till the seal touches the tip of the yoke and 2" until total disengagement.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
-The new yoke has 4.5" of spline and 5.5" from mid cap to tip of yoke.
-This yoke would give me only 1.125" to 1.25" compression clearance before I bottom out on the output shaft splines, is this enough room??
-If I hit a pothole I would have 2" till the tip of the yoke touches the seal and 2.5" til total disengagement. (sounds better)
This new yoke obviously sounds like the better deal, questions are I think my compression measurement is getting cut VERY VERY close but my suspension droop will definitely be MUCH better, any thoughts??
Tomorrow I can/will check how much the yoke comes out of the seal at full suspension droop. If I had access to an alignment rack I would love to check compression of the yoke onto the output shaft by having 4 people sit on the trunk, this sounds too dangerous to do on jackstands right?!
#46
-This yoke would give me only 1.125" to 1.25" compression clearance before I bottom out on the output shaft splines, is this enough room??
yes, if I read the above correctly. If at ride height, the yoke is out of the trans enough that it could go in 1" more, it is good.
yes, if I read the above correctly. If at ride height, the yoke is out of the trans enough that it could go in 1" more, it is good.
#47
-This yoke would give me only 1.125" to 1.25" compression clearance before I bottom out on the output shaft splines, is this enough room??
yes, if I read the above correctly. If at ride height, the yoke is out of the trans enough that it could go in 1" more, it is good.
yes, if I read the above correctly. If at ride height, the yoke is out of the trans enough that it could go in 1" more, it is good.
#49
More importantly, just looking for a second opinion... Do you think 1" of yoke compression is all that I need? I dont want the yoke to bottom on the output shaft splines during launch
End of the line (for splines that is) is at 1 1/4" of compression...
#52
I really cannot find a 3R yoke thats 5.5" long from mid cap to end of yoke, dyou know of a company that sells em, so i wont need to get a conversion joint? Or if i do it wont be garbage like a 1310?
#54
Heres a 3R yoke, its 3/8" longer than what I have now, thats the only difference... Startin to feel like whats the point, why am I even changing the yoke???
http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p108...rg_warner.html
#55
I told you I have a yoke in my fourth response. It is similar to the one in your post (Denny's). Denny's seems to have a correct yoke and several choices of universal joints. A driveshaft is relatively simple, and several members and I have tried to help; this thread is now 55 posts long!
#56
There was a local Pontiac guy that called me about the same style short yoke.I have another one,but I need to get back with him to see if he still needs it.The one that I ordered last year was just like this one,with a short barrel.
#57
The used yoke I have has about the same measurements as Denny's. I got it in the 1970s from an Olds or Pontiac. You want to avoid the 1310 u joints because they were intended for Chevys with 200 HP, not your Olds which you said has 400 HP. Olds could have used the cheap, small Chevy u joint but instead made a better one (via Saginaw division).
#61
I'm not trying to sell you anything. I use my spare yoke when I change transmissions so lube won't leak out of the tailhousing. I posted all these times trying to help you. I simply said that the one I got out of a car is like the one Denny's sells, so theirs is correct.
#62
The yoke "might" handle that power,but the u-joint will not.
The original reason of this post was to get the correct driveshaft length,correct?
You swapped from one 8.2" 10-bolt to another 8.2" 10-bolt,correct?
The original reason of this post was to get the correct driveshaft length,correct?
You swapped from one 8.2" 10-bolt to another 8.2" 10-bolt,correct?
#63
He said he sold over 450 yokes and 3r to 1310 conversion u-joints this year and did not hear of any broken ones. I could have just purchased the stock 3R yoke which would have been 3/8"s longer than the chopped one I have now but the one from southwest is 1/2" longer which would give me more power handling and more insurance against the yoke coming out of the trans. I believe the 68 buick gs even though its a 10bolt 8.2" rear still has a different length driveshaft or pinion shaft... Either way, if I have 1.25" of spline left on the output shaft when the yoke gets pushed in and all thats needed is 3/4" what could go wrong?
#64
I'm not trying to sell you anything. I use my spare yoke when I change transmissions so lube won't leak out of the tailhousing. I posted all these times trying to help you. I simply said that the one I got out of a car is like the one Denny's sells, so theirs is correct.
#65
With the rear up,suspension under load,and the rear u-joint seated in the yoke,you currently have 1.25" of spline engagement,or are you able to pull the driveshaft back that far(1.25") to seat the rear joint into the yoke?
#66
I hammered the end caps off with no issues, everything looks great, thanx!
Im getting a lot closer and really appreciate the help! Since ive got some better measurements I thought I'd share some info, these are more precise, they are as follows:
I measured 3.5" of spline on the output shaft of my T400 transmission.
The yoke and U-Joint I would like to purchase is A 3R to 1310 conversion joint with a 1310 yoke end.
Some official specs:
The Oldsmobile 3R joint has 1 1/8" end caps and gets pressed into a yoke that measures 3 5/8"s from outside of one cap to the other.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
-With my current CHOPPED YOKE I only have 3.5" of spline and the complete yoke measures 5" from middle of cap to the tip of the yoke.
-I measured 1.5" to 1.7" of compression clearance to bottoming on the splines of the output shaft (I hear 1" is all thats needed for compression/launch) is this correct??
-This yoke gives me 2" of spline engagement at ride height (was told you need 2.5"---3"??) is this correct?.
-Which means If I hit a pothole I would have 1.5" till the seal touches the tip of the yoke and 2" until total disengagement.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
-The new yoke has 4.5" of spline and 5.5" from mid cap to tip of yoke.
-This yoke would give me only 1.125" to 1.25" compression clearance before I bottom out on the output shaft splines, is this enough room??
-If I hit a pothole I would have 2" till the tip of the yoke touches the seal and 2.5" til total disengagement. (sounds better)
This new yoke obviously sounds like the better deal, questions are I think my compression measurement is getting cut VERY VERY close but my suspension droop will definitely be MUCH better, any thoughts??
Tomorrow I can/will check how much the yoke comes out of the seal at full suspension droop. If I had access to an alignment rack I would love to check compression of the yoke onto the output shaft by having 4 people sit on the trunk, this sounds too dangerous to do on jackstands right?!
Im getting a lot closer and really appreciate the help! Since ive got some better measurements I thought I'd share some info, these are more precise, they are as follows:
I measured 3.5" of spline on the output shaft of my T400 transmission.
The yoke and U-Joint I would like to purchase is A 3R to 1310 conversion joint with a 1310 yoke end.
Some official specs:
The Oldsmobile 3R joint has 1 1/8" end caps and gets pressed into a yoke that measures 3 5/8"s from outside of one cap to the other.
--------------------------------------------------------------------
-With my current CHOPPED YOKE I only have 3.5" of spline and the complete yoke measures 5" from middle of cap to the tip of the yoke.
-I measured 1.5" to 1.7" of compression clearance to bottoming on the splines of the output shaft (I hear 1" is all thats needed for compression/launch) is this correct??
-This yoke gives me 2" of spline engagement at ride height (was told you need 2.5"---3"??) is this correct?.
-Which means If I hit a pothole I would have 1.5" till the seal touches the tip of the yoke and 2" until total disengagement.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
-The new yoke has 4.5" of spline and 5.5" from mid cap to tip of yoke.
-This yoke would give me only 1.125" to 1.25" compression clearance before I bottom out on the output shaft splines, is this enough room??
-If I hit a pothole I would have 2" till the tip of the yoke touches the seal and 2.5" til total disengagement. (sounds better)
This new yoke obviously sounds like the better deal, questions are I think my compression measurement is getting cut VERY VERY close but my suspension droop will definitely be MUCH better, any thoughts??
Tomorrow I can/will check how much the yoke comes out of the seal at full suspension droop. If I had access to an alignment rack I would love to check compression of the yoke onto the output shaft by having 4 people sit on the trunk, this sounds too dangerous to do on jackstands right?!
#67
So you have room for a little more yoke barrel.The one that you said is 3/8" longer than your existing chopped yoke,should be the correct one.
Your yoke won't get much farther out of the trans,when suspension is under load,but when the rear drops,or the body rises,then the yoke is pushing inward.
I looked at my short yoke last night,and the splines don't start until about 3/8"-1/2" down the barrel.That's an original GM piece.
Your yoke won't get much farther out of the trans,when suspension is under load,but when the rear drops,or the body rises,then the yoke is pushing inward.
I looked at my short yoke last night,and the splines don't start until about 3/8"-1/2" down the barrel.That's an original GM piece.
#68
It is original with plastic inside snap rings.
Is what you are suggesting that it can not really be replaced, but that the whole assembly needs to be, as a result of the plastic?
#69
The yoke can be replaced, but before you can press or pound out the Ujoint caps you will need to burn out the plastic pins with a torch. Just heat the end on the driveshaft and the plastic will ooze out like one of those fireworks snakes we used to play with as kids.
#71
#72
but it also sounds like i am going to need to replace the ujoint anyway, so just need to detach from driveshaft and save the melting for another time.
is that correct?
#74
OK, Thank you. The ujoint seems to be easy enough to find.
The yoke, on the other hand, has 2 really close choices 5.4 inches or 5.46 inches.
Also, Inside Snap Ring or Outside Snap Ring.
From looking at the picture I took (and not seeing any rings on the outside) I am assuming it is the "Inside Snap Ring".
Can somebody help me confirm this?
if so, I think the part is Neapco N3R-3-6081X. Also sold by OPGI as this: http://www.opgi.com/p/transmission/3...0/CH26309.html
The yoke, on the other hand, has 2 really close choices 5.4 inches or 5.46 inches.
Also, Inside Snap Ring or Outside Snap Ring.
From looking at the picture I took (and not seeing any rings on the outside) I am assuming it is the "Inside Snap Ring".
Can somebody help me confirm this?
if so, I think the part is Neapco N3R-3-6081X. Also sold by OPGI as this: http://www.opgi.com/p/transmission/3...0/CH26309.html
#75
An outside clip would be obvious, it's an inside clip.
One other note, measure the U joint width and cup diameter. They typically come in 3 sizes 1310, 1330, and 1350. Google to confirm which yours is and what yoke you'll need. Also note the U joints can be a combination of the sizes, so measure both dimensions.
One other note, measure the U joint width and cup diameter. They typically come in 3 sizes 1310, 1330, and 1350. Google to confirm which yours is and what yoke you'll need. Also note the U joints can be a combination of the sizes, so measure both dimensions.
#76
Do I need to be concerned if the U-Joint matches the driveshaft in any way?
An outside clip would be obvious, it's an inside clip.
One other note, measure the U joint width and cup diameter. They typically come in 3 sizes 1310, 1330, and 1350. Google to confirm which yours is and what yoke you'll need. Also note the U joints can be a combination of the sizes, so measure both dimensions.
One other note, measure the U joint width and cup diameter. They typically come in 3 sizes 1310, 1330, and 1350. Google to confirm which yours is and what yoke you'll need. Also note the U joints can be a combination of the sizes, so measure both dimensions.
Looks like I am going to purchase this one.
It comes with 2 recommendations for U-Joints (2-3011 or spicer 5-3147X). So I am confident they will match. Do I need to be concerned if the U-Joint matches the driveshaft in any way, or am I safe, since it matches the yoke?
.
#77
The yoke and driveshaft U joint size are not necessarily the same size.
ie one pair of caps 1310, the caps 90 degrees off those 1330.
Google the dimensions of the 3 sizes, measure all the width across and cup diameters. Get the right stuff first time.
Everything you need to know.
Oops, the 3 numbers I gave are for outside clips u joints. The page below give the inside clip dimensions too.
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/...D%20Guide.html
ie one pair of caps 1310, the caps 90 degrees off those 1330.
Google the dimensions of the 3 sizes, measure all the width across and cup diameters. Get the right stuff first time.
Everything you need to know.
Oops, the 3 numbers I gave are for outside clips u joints. The page below give the inside clip dimensions too.
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/...D%20Guide.html
Thanks garys 68.
Looks like I am going to purchase this one.
It comes with 2 recommendations for U-Joints (2-3011 or spicer 5-3147X). So I am confident they will match. Do I need to be concerned if the U-Joint matches the driveshaft in any way, or am I safe, since it matches the yoke?
.
Looks like I am going to purchase this one.
It comes with 2 recommendations for U-Joints (2-3011 or spicer 5-3147X). So I am confident they will match. Do I need to be concerned if the U-Joint matches the driveshaft in any way, or am I safe, since it matches the yoke?
.
Last edited by garys 68; April 16th, 2013 at 07:44 AM.
#78
Which Yoke is Correct - or are they both?
I ordered a Yoke that was supposed to be a Neapco N3R-3-6081X.
What showed up was the same model number - but manufactured by AAM (American Axle & Manufacturing).
That is a bit sleazy, but real issue is that they are different - the one I ordered is pictured as having a smooth interior. The one that showed up has grooves in the holes where the u-joint will go, and small holes on both sides (assume for lubricating.
Which yoke is correct - or are they both?
First attachment is the one ordered. Second one is what the one I got looks like.
.
What showed up was the same model number - but manufactured by AAM (American Axle & Manufacturing).
That is a bit sleazy, but real issue is that they are different - the one I ordered is pictured as having a smooth interior. The one that showed up has grooves in the holes where the u-joint will go, and small holes on both sides (assume for lubricating.
Which yoke is correct - or are they both?
First attachment is the one ordered. Second one is what the one I got looks like.
.
#79
Most Ujoints come with both inside and outside clips. The yokes in your pictures look like they use the inside clips.
Ok, what caused the nasty grove in your old yoke? This needs to be addressed or your new yoke will suffer the same fate.
Ok, what caused the nasty grove in your old yoke? This needs to be addressed or your new yoke will suffer the same fate.
#80
I did the same conversion turbo 400 to turbo 350 swap.
I bought a drive shaft complete with turbo 400 yoke.
The 350 yoke I ordered had an outside snap ring,unlike the stock GM type.
Also the 5 inch yoke was too short as the turbo 400 drive shaft is shorter than the turbo 350 version as the transmission is longer.
Make sure you have the longer yoke if doing this conversion,and buy your joints after you see which clips you need for the u joint.
They make 1310 /1330 joint with many different ring configurations.
I bought a drive shaft complete with turbo 400 yoke.
The 350 yoke I ordered had an outside snap ring,unlike the stock GM type.
Also the 5 inch yoke was too short as the turbo 400 drive shaft is shorter than the turbo 350 version as the transmission is longer.
Make sure you have the longer yoke if doing this conversion,and buy your joints after you see which clips you need for the u joint.
They make 1310 /1330 joint with many different ring configurations.