different blocks for stick or automatic tranny

olds4life · May 18th, 2009, 09:33 AM

hey olds nation!!! i have a question.

can i used an 70 455

that came as an automatic and hook a 3 or 4 speed tranny to it. if not what will i need to do. or is it better to get a block that was hook to a stick. thanks

MN71W30 · May 18th, 2009, 09:56 AM

As far as I know you'll have to pull the crank and have it drilled. I was able to do it without pulling a head by using a hoist and an adjustable engine puller attachment with a crank on it. The crankshaft needs to spin in just right with delicate control of the procedure. You may want to pull a head to do it. Good luck finding an Olds stick motor.

Eric Anderson · May 18th, 2009, 11:53 AM

You can also use an adapter like the one on this site: http://dickmillerracing.com/store/page14.html

joe_padavano · May 18th, 2009, 12:09 PM

The prior posts have discussed the issues with the AT vs. MT crankshafts, but back to the original question. The BLOCK was the same. Just be aware that some blocks cast after the early 1970s may not have the threaded hole for the pivot ball for the clutch linkage cross shaft (AKA, the Z-bar).

My442 · May 18th, 2009, 05:14 PM

I did a 100% factory conversion on my 70 442. Used every single GM part, except for the pilot bearing.

I used one of the adapter bearings, after drilling out the crank for input shaft clearance.

Drilling the crank is harder than a wedding dick.......no lie, it is a BITCH.

Anyway, after the conversion, the tranny was hard to shift into reverse.

After about 500 miles, the conversion bearing spun in the ID of the crank.

So I pulled the engine, and brought the crank to my machine shop. Come to find out that the recess in the auto tranny crank was off center to the crank center line. That made the input shaft spin when the tranny was in neutral.

I had the crank drilled out using the specs in the Mondello Tech Manual, and used a BCA7109 bearing.

Works great now.

So, I don't recommend the conversion bearing.

Drilling the crank for the BCA7109 bearing was $150. The bearing is about $20.

MN71W30 · May 18th, 2009, 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by My442

I did a 100% factory conversion on my 70 442. Used every single GM part, except for the pilot bearing.

I used one of the adapter bearings, after drilling out the crank for input shaft clearance.

Drilling the crank is harder than a wedding dick.......no lie, it is a BITCH.

Anyway, after the conversion, the tranny was hard to shift into reverse.

After about 500 miles, the conversion bearing spun in the ID of the crank.

So I pulled the engine, and brought the crank to my machine shop. Come to find out that the recess in the auto tranny crank was off center to the crank center line. That made the input shaft spin when the tranny was in neutral.

I had the crank drilled out using the specs in the Mondello Tech Manual, and used a BCA7109 bearing.

Works great now.

So, I don't recommend the conversion bearing.

Drilling the crank for the BCA7109 bearing was $150. The bearing is about $20.

This information is priceless. Thanks for the heads up on those bearings.

joe_padavano · May 19th, 2009, 04:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by My442

...Come to find out that the recess in the auto tranny crank was off center to the crank center line. That made the input shaft spin when the tranny was in neutral.

Wow. Sorry to hear that. I know it's no consolation, but your experience is the exception, not the norm. Of course, that's been the story of my life too...

olds4life · May 19th, 2009, 08:48 AM

thanks fella's. drilling the crank is way above my mechanical abilities. i may just put a 350 in my 442 until i can find manual engine/tranny combo to put in it. thanks again.

Warhead · June 13th, 2009, 08:54 AM

I have a stickshift crank, AND an M-20 for in front of it.
Some assembly required.
JIm

gmrocket · October 24th, 2009, 07:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by olds4life

thanks fella's. drilling the crank is way above my mechanical abilities. i may just put a 350 in my 442 until i can find manual engine/tranny combo to put in it. thanks again.

you missed the post above about the conversion bearing that doesnt require drilling of the crank. it works

May 18th, 2009, 09:33 AM	#1 (permalink)
olds4life Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: st. louis mo Posts: 107	different blocks for stick or automatic tranny hey olds nation!!! i have a question. can i used an 70 455 that came as an automatic and hook a 3 or 4 speed tranny to it. if not what will i need to do. or is it better to get a block that was hook to a stick. thanks __________________ __________________________________ 68 442 conv cutlass 68 conv cutlass S-70 455 (2)64 conv cutlass

May 18th, 2009, 11:53 AM	#3 (permalink)
Eric Anderson Registered User Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: North East PA Posts: 362	You can also use an adapter like the one on this site: http://dickmillerracing.com/store/page14.html __________________ My70Cutlasshe who has the most toys when he dies...wins

May 18th, 2009, 12:09 PM	#4 (permalink)
joe_padavano Super Moderator Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Northern VA Posts: 4,396	The prior posts have discussed the issues with the AT vs. MT crankshafts, but back to the original question. The BLOCK was the same. Just be aware that some blocks cast after the early 1970s may not have the threaded hole for the pivot ball for the clutch linkage cross shaft (AKA, the Z-bar). __________________ Joe Padavano 64 Jetstar 88 Conv 66 442 L-69 Conv 68 W-30 69 H/O 69 442 70 W-30 72 442 84 Custom Cruiser 86 Caprice wagon (w/307 Olds)

May 19th, 2009, 08:48 AM	#8 (permalink)
olds4life Registered User Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: st. louis mo Posts: 107	thanks fella's. drilling the crank is way above my mechanical abilities. i may just put a 350 in my 442 until i can find manual engine/tranny combo to put in it. thanks again. __________________ __________________________________ 68 442 conv cutlass 68 conv cutlass S-70 455 (2)64 conv cutlass

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May 18th, 2009, 09:56 AM	#2 (permalink)
MN71W30 Registered User Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: oakdale, Minnesota Posts: 530	As far as I know you'll have to pull the crank and have it drilled. I was able to do it without pulling a head by using a hoist and an adjustable engine puller attachment with a crank on it. The crankshaft needs to spin in just right with delicate control of the procedure. You may want to pull a head to do it. Good luck finding an Olds stick motor.

May 18th, 2009, 05:14 PM	#5 (permalink)
My442 Registered User Join Date: Feb 2009 Posts: 204	I did a 100% factory conversion on my 70 442. Used every single GM part, except for the pilot bearing. I used one of the adapter bearings, after drilling out the crank for input shaft clearance. Drilling the crank is harder than a wedding dick.......no lie, it is a BITCH. Anyway, after the conversion, the tranny was hard to shift into reverse. After about 500 miles, the conversion bearing spun in the ID of the crank. So I pulled the engine, and brought the crank to my machine shop. Come to find out that the recess in the auto tranny crank was off center to the crank center line. That made the input shaft spin when the tranny was in neutral. I had the crank drilled out using the specs in the Mondello Tech Manual, and used a BCA7109 bearing. Works great now. So, I don't recommend the conversion bearing. Drilling the crank for the BCA7109 bearing was $150. The bearing is about $20.

June 13th, 2009, 08:54 AM	#9 (permalink)
Warhead Registered User Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 311	I have a stickshift crank, AND an M-20 for in front of it. Some assembly required. JIm

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