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Thanks 307 and good luck with your swap. I didn't realize one can buy solid spacers. That sounds much easier.
Now, to explain to the wife why the car smells like burning rubber
On a side note: I live in the sticks on a blacktop about 4 miles long with two other houses. The kind of place that when a car drives by, you look out the window and say "I wonder who that is." Lol. However, someone has been leaving posi burn out marks on MY road! I need to get out there and mark my territory, lol.
Sounds like you have a majority. You and the other black stripe maker. I say you two turn it into a drag strip and put a lawn chair in front of the "spectator's" house. 😎
Sounds like you have a majority. You and the other black stripe maker. I say you two turn it into a drag strip and put a lawn chair in front of the "spectator's" house. 😎
On second thought, your road is long enough you can have your very own Texas Mile!
That would sound kind of awesome if it weren't for the fact that it's hilly and barely wide enough for one car
Our road intersects (ends at) Route 66 and about a mile up 66 there is an old, rusted, abandoned Dog 'n Suds. A few of us are talking about buying it, painting it, and making it a BYOB and meat hang out. Owning a classic car would be the entry fee for the night.
I'm sure it's more complicated than that but it does sound fun.
I am too cheap and broke plus I don't trust my local diff/trans shop, big BSer. I like the solid spacer/shims especially on a weak rear like GM 7.5", it adds strength and no guessing if it "crushed".
I have rebuilt rear ends in my ol K5 blazer , my dad's 77 pontiac bonneville , and my friends C-10 pick up truck . I didnt do mine on the copper car. even the current re gear. The reason for that is For my useage i trusted my local olds source who has been building diff's for a long time. He set me up with a 3.90 and a few tricks in the posi unit to make it live longer and bite better. For the money I spent it was worth it. I didnt have the knowledge to rebuild the posi so i said screw it im money ahead having someone i trust rebuild it. had i done it from scratch new posi , new gear new axles i would have done it but my 3.90 was a used set which he had , and he had the parts to rebuild my posi with the 12 bolt style clutches for the 8.5 10 bolt. I spent half the money i would have on the posi and the gear set all in all i spent half of what i would have. Sometimes its better to pay someone although im not usually and advocate for that.
Well I had to choose between spending the whole summer working on the car or having some left to drive the car, lol. I feel good about my choice. Now I'm just hoping they call tomorrow and tell me they're ready to put the carrier in.
You should get it up here for the Buick olds pontiac race in sept @ byron dragway We usually camp at the track for that event. BOP race at union grove dragwaway this sunday BTW .
If I can get the rear back sometime today, I can work tonight to get it in, brakes tomorrow along with odds and ends and maybe be on the road for the weekend.
Hey, those UMI control arms, do the zerks go up or down? Looks like the uppers go down. I'll be able to tell when I get the rear under there.
Do I really have to torque the bolts with the car on the ground? It's going to be a tight squeeze under there.
Last edited by Macadoo; June 23rd, 2016 at 06:51 AM.
You should get it up here for the Buick olds pontiac race in sept @ byron dragway We usually camp at the track for that event. BOP race at union grove dragwaway this sunday BTW .
If I can get the rear back sometime today, I can work tonight to get it in, brakes tomorrow along with odds and ends and maybe be on the road for the weekend.
Hey, those UMI control arms, do the zerks go up or down? Looks like the uppers go down. I'll be able to tell when I get the rear under there.
Do I really have to torque the bolts with the car on the ground? It's going to be a tight squeeze under there.
Zerks down on the lowers. Uppers can only go in one way.
If you're using rubber bushings then weight of car MUST be on the wheels. For the rear axle you can put jack stands under the axle and be good. For the front that doesn't work - the wheels have to be on ramps, bricks, children, whatever.
If you're using poly or delrin then it doesn't matter since those bushings can rotate in the housing. Rubber bushings can't rotate and bite into the arms/mounts, so they bind if not set up right.
A solid spacer makes R&R of the gear quicker and easier, but totally unnecessary if you're not doing regular R&R. It requires a bit of work and measurement to get the solid spacer and shims set up right, and it's specific to the pinion and case. The crush sleeves are a bit of a pain, but they're cheap, simple, and work.
Zerks down on the lowers. Uppers can only go in one way.
If you're using rubber bushings then weight of car MUST be on the wheels. For the rear axle you can put jack stands under the axle and be good. For the front that doesn't work - the wheels have to be on ramps, bricks, children, whatever.
If you're using poly or delrin then it doesn't matter since those bushings can rotate in the housing. Rubber bushings can't rotate and bite into the arms/mounts, so they bind if not set up right.
A solid spacer makes R&R of the gear quicker and easier, but totally unnecessary if you're not doing regular R&R. It requires a bit of work and measurement to get the solid spacer and shims set up right, and it's specific to the pinion and case. The crush sleeves are a bit of a pain, but they're cheap, simple, and work.
Lol, children. That really shouldn't be funny...........but it is
Yup, I figured out those upper arms pretty quickly. Didn't realize the lower connection is boxed on one side. Also easy enough to see the zerks must be down on the lowers. I'm hoping I haven't shot myself in the foot because I went ahead and bolted all four to the car. Still haven't gotten the rear back though. But from looking at my pics, it seems I can still raise the rear into place without the control arms being in the way. I might have to wire the uppers up out of the way or something.
And yes, they're poly. UMI tubular. They're tubular, dude.
They have sleeved holes for a rear sway bar, which might not be as far in the future as I once thought. UMI sells a 1" for $160. Seems a bit steep. Will it help?
This is a little confusing. Should I torque to 80 or 105 ft/lbs? Are they saying that if I have to wrench on the hex head rather than the nut? I have them at 80 right now and they do seems a little loose. No side-to-side play though.
I may have jumped the gun on thinking the shop bent one of the diff bushing ears but I can't be sure. I never noticed any asymmetry before I dropped it off and I did look at those bushing caps while the rear was on the bench and I didn't see any issues with fitment. But my buddy at the local garage said they can be different.
I was able to loosen all the bolts and wiggle that baby into place. The rear end is completely installed and now I just have to do the brakes, bleed them, and put the wheels back on.
Here's a pic of that bushing. It's much too close to the pumpkin to get the cap on. You can see the gash in the exit part of the bushing.
And a quick question; I got this nifty cover for father's day (my wife is awesome) but do I fill it until it runs out the filler hole on the top OR out the old filler hole on the side of the differential? As of now, I went with the filler hole on the side. There's quite a difference. It's not up to the filler hole on the cover.
I'm neither metallurgist nor machinist, but I'm pretty sure cast iron will break before it will bend.
X2
I think your in good shape Mac, Cast will break especially those ears before it will ever bend.
I can't wait to see those black stripes LOL. You've done a wicked job. What rear end cover did your wifee buy you ? You just have to show it off !!
The hole in the cover is used to fill only , use the original hole in the side of the case as your fill level . BOB
Good to know. Thanks Bob. Not sure about the purpose of having another fill hole. That one on the cover is actually harder to get a good angle on the bottle than the side hole.
Originally Posted by BlackGold
I'm neither metallurgist nor machinist, but I'm pretty sure cast iron will break before it will bend.
I was thinking the same thing after my freak-out. So it was just cast asymmetrically?
Originally Posted by 76olds
X2
I think your in good shape Mac, Cast will break especially those ears before it will ever bend.
I can't wait to see those black stripes LOL. You've done a wicked job. What rear end cover did your wifee buy you ? You just have to show it off !!
That's a Moser cover. It has the main cap supports but not that I need them, lol. I just put the tiniest torque on them and locked them in place. Sure is pretty though. I pooped out after seven hours. Brakes and bleeding tomorrow and then maybe I'll get those black stripes. Best part is these are Copper's used gears so no break-in period
Feels great! I need to adjust the trans a little, the new gears have it shifting a little soon. Oh, and a speedo bullet needs to get on the list but for now I have a MPH app, lol.
Mac Just let errrrr eat. I spun mt sbo to 7k at the track by accident this weekend. Things spin up pretty fast in the burnout box. Just keep it under 5500 rpm which is conseravtive. Back when i had my mild 350 it wouldnt make power over 5k anyway. Literally fell on its face.
7K? Dude! Lol.
Two questions: at what rpm should it shift at WOT? And doing burnouts is cool and fun but exactly how do I not do a burnout from a standing stop? Floor it a little more slowly?
you stand on the brake and give it a little gas. Load up the suspension then let go and let her rip . I dont do brake torque burnouts ( standing on the brake and gas ) unless im at the drag strip on the street i just load up the suspension and flat foot it and let her rip. If your car can plan the tires you wont get wheel hop.
As for shifting it comes to what the engine like and can handle . A little over 5k is fine
June 22nd, 2016, 06:54 AM
