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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 3
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I can get a newer 455 but all the research I have done has concluded that the 1970 and older models are the best for H.P... Should I go for the newer or wait for the older. Also what can be done for adding extra performance and stopping prob's with cam. Are there any other common prob's I should be aware of?? This motor will go into my 69 Cutlass used for mostly street but WILL GO TO THE TRACK AT LEAST ONE TIME BEFORE I DIE!!!!!!!!!!!
any info will help please give me anything you got Thanks ahead of time. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 61
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455's
Here is what I did. I purchased a 455 out of a 76 Toronado. Had it bored out 30 over and put the Edelbrock Power Pack kit with it and performace pistons. Believe me it has plenty of HP on the Street. Now for the things to watch out for. Make sure the Crank can still be machined. I had to buy another 455 to get a good crank. The factory 455 cranks are like gold and are hard to find. You can get one from Mondello Performance but it will cost you.
Mike |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 61
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455's
Here is what I did. I purchased a 455 out of a 76 Toronado. Had it bored out 30 over and put the Edelbrock Power Pack kit with it and performace pistons. Believe me it has plenty of HP on the Street. Now for the things to watch out for. Make sure the Crank can still be machined. I had to buy another 455 to get a good crank. The factory 455 cranks are like gold and are hard to find. You can get one from Mondello Performance but it will cost you.
Mike |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 61
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455's
Here is what I did. I purchased a 455 out of a 76 Toronado. Had it bored out 30 over and put the Edelbrock Power Pack kit with it and performace pistons. Believe me it has plenty of HP on the Street. Now for the things to watch out for. Make sure the Crank can still be machined. I had to buy another 455 to get a good crank. The factory 455 cranks are like gold and are hard to find. You can get one from Mondello Performance but it will cost you.
Mike |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 61
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455's
Here is what I did. I purchased a 455 out of a 76 Toronado. Had it bored out 30 over and put the Edelbrock Power Pack kit with it and performace pistons. Believe me it has plenty of HP on the Street. Now for the things to watch out for. Make sure the Crank can still be machined. I had to buy another 455 to get a good crank. The factory 455 cranks are like gold and are hard to find. You can get one from Mondello Performance but it will cost you.
Mike |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 61
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455's
Here is what I did. I purchased a 455 out of a 76 Toronado. Had it bored out 30 over and put the Edelbrock Power Pack kit with it and performace pistons. Believe me it has plenty of HP on the Street. Now for the things to watch out for. Make sure the Crank can still be machined. I had to buy another 455 to get a good crank. The factory 455 cranks are like gold and are hard to find. You can get one from Mondello Performance but it will cost you.
Mike |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 61
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455's
Here is what I did. I purchased a 455 out of a 76 Toronado. Had it bored out 30 over and put the Edelbrock Power Pack kit with it and performace pistons. Believe me it has plenty of HP on the Street. Now for the things to watch out for. Make sure the Crank can still be machined. I had to buy another 455 to get a good crank. The factory 455 cranks are like gold and are hard to find. You can get one from Mondello Performance but it will cost you.
Mike |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 61
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sorry PC issues on the reply.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Bartlesville, Oklahoma
Posts: 94
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455
Earlier 455's had a higher nickel content in the casting(look on back of block for F1.F2, etc.) the smaller the number next to the F the higher the nickel content. They also usually had nodular cranks marked by an N or CN cast into one of the throws on the crank. Any year 455 can be built to run strong, the earlier stuff is just inherantly stronger and longer lasting.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 807
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Orange,
Not meaning to steal the thread, but is that true for small blocks (350) also? It's GREAT info! C.J.
__________________
Home of the 1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible Super Karate Monkey Death Car. ![]()
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#11 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 9
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Stay away from the 77-79 350's. They had windowed main webs like the 403's and flex a lot more if you lean on them a little with modifications. They also have the less robust metallurgy. 68-72 blocks are still a dime a dozen in most areas of the country, and nodular "N" cranks aren't that rare either.
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#12 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Bartlesville, Oklahoma
Posts: 94
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Yes, the 350's do follow the same basic guidelines in nickel content and nodular cranks. But, unlike the ultra-rare forged steel 455 cranks, you can use a 330 crank in a 350 and they are all forged steel and not near as hard to find. They have the same stroke and journal size as a 350 and you will need to retain the 330 flywheel(different bolt pattern) and balancer. The only other way to have a stronger 350 block is to convert a 350 diesel block to gas use.
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