75 Cutlass Salon Engine & Transmission Swap wiil longtail work
#1
75 Cutlass Salon Engine & Transmission Swap wiil longtail work
Hey everybody I'm new to this site just searching alot has pointed me here and it has been a great help.Thanks! I just bought a 350 that has a 400 longtail attached to it to go in my 75 Salon that has thrown rod.Transmission in car seems to be OK.So need to decide if I'll just try to make the longtail work in there w. A different driveshaft or just pull the engine by itself.. Or pull both engine and trans out,connect the new 350 to 350 transmission that was in the car and drop it in..don't know what's easiest way to go about it.Can't wait to get this thing runnin.
#2
If your transmission works, just swap the engine.
The TH400 besides being a long tail requires a different yoke and you would need to have a new drive shaft made. Also the parking brake cables might be effected because you would need to move the transmission cross member back to accommodate the TH400 due to the different mount location.
Then there is the fact that the TH350 uses a cable for the kickdown and the TH400 is electronically activated and you would need to wire up a switch or the trans will not kick down.
If you were swapping in a strong 455 I would suggest a short tail TH400, but that would still require all that I have listed. The short tail would keep the driveline angles correct though.
The TH400 besides being a long tail requires a different yoke and you would need to have a new drive shaft made. Also the parking brake cables might be effected because you would need to move the transmission cross member back to accommodate the TH400 due to the different mount location.
Then there is the fact that the TH350 uses a cable for the kickdown and the TH400 is electronically activated and you would need to wire up a switch or the trans will not kick down.
If you were swapping in a strong 455 I would suggest a short tail TH400, but that would still require all that I have listed. The short tail would keep the driveline angles correct though.
#4
Some people have told me that even if I keep the 350 th it's easier to pull bad engine+350 th & combine them outside the car.I do have a transmission jack so could do it either way..? Just as long as I can reach Bell housing bolts I feel like just swapping the engine.
#5
If you are not having any problems with your current transmission, just change the engine... Whether or not you choose to remove the engine with the trans attached is strictly a preference some people prefer... IMO, leave the trans in the vehicle... Simply support the bottom of the trans, The trans to engine mounting bolts are not a problem to remove in the vehicle... The guide pins in the block will help realign the engine to the trans when reinstalling...
#6
Be advised that if you do pull the trans with it that you WILL get trans fluid everywhere as soon as you tip it back.
Also don't forget to connect the ground straps to the back of the engine when you put the "new" one in or you may just end up with some odd electrical gremlins that you didn't have before.
Also don't forget to connect the ground straps to the back of the engine when you put the "new" one in or you may just end up with some odd electrical gremlins that you didn't have before.
#9
If you are not having any problems with your current transmission, just change the engine... Whether or not you choose to remove the engine with the trans attached is strictly a preference some people prefer... IMO, leave the trans in the vehicle... Simply support the bottom of the trans, The trans to engine mounting bolts are not a problem to remove in the vehicle... The guide pins in the block will help realign the engine to the trans when reinstalling...
#10
Be advised that if you do pull the trans with it that you WILL get trans fluid everywhere as soon as you tip it back.
Also don't forget to connect the ground straps to the back of the engine when you put the "new" one in or you may just end up with some odd electrical gremlins that you didn't have before.
Also don't forget to connect the ground straps to the back of the engine when you put the "new" one in or you may just end up with some odd electrical gremlins that you didn't have before.
#14
Still pulling the engine. Just have bell housing bolts left, the one on the bottom drivers side I am having so much trouble getting out. I really wonder the best way to go about getting it. This thing with a kind of eye hole on the bell housing is blocking me from getting any kind of good socket on it from the bottom. I see on the engine and transmission I have on the floor that part had been cut off of the 400 tranmission.
#15
Finally got engine out..Im looking at the 1968 350 W. #6 heads that's going in.
Never heard or seen it run.Thinking about checking it out before droppin it in.
Seems downright impossible to get 2 of the exhaust manifold bolts out..the other ones loosened up.used propane torch not oxy/a..looking at YouTube s where they use a torch and candlewax lol.68 was set up for dual.my car single and money's tight.Thoughts anybody?
Never heard or seen it run.Thinking about checking it out before droppin it in.
Seems downright impossible to get 2 of the exhaust manifold bolts out..the other ones loosened up.used propane torch not oxy/a..looking at YouTube s where they use a torch and candlewax lol.68 was set up for dual.my car single and money's tight.Thoughts anybody?
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