cdrod

I'm doing a frame-off restomod of a '72 442 convertible. I've read in other posts that I should not torque the control arm bolts to CSM specs until I have the full weight of the car on the suspension. Currently the body is off the frame and I've completely rebuilt the chassis with Moog rubber bushings, except for the upper front arms which are aftermarket from SPC. I've tightened all of the suspension bolts to the point where the frame mounts began to "squeeze" into the bushing. Here's my question, Should I torque everything to 50% of final amount and re-torque to CSM settings after mating the body and frame? How far should I tighten at this stage of my project? Thanks!

garys 68&72

The control arm bushing need to be loose enough for the inner sleeve to rotate on the cross shaft. Tighten to specs after the body is on.
Poly typically doesn't matter.
Nice looking hardware on there.

droldsmorland

Ya good advice. Wait until the weight of the whole assembly is on the frame before tightening the bushings. I usually have a punch list of things to do on the final assembly thats one of them. Punch list are a great way to remind yourself of all the little gotchas.

Fun71

Right, you need the bushings to be able to move freely until the full weight of the vehicle is on the suspension. The rubber has a very limited arc of travel once the inner sleeves are pinched in the mounts so they need to be in the final location prior to tightening the bolts any at all.

cdrod

I take it, there is not a hard and fast torque setting for the assembly stage, just a visual check to make sure the bushing can rotate freely as the suspension moves through its travel. I guess my OCD is kicking in, but everything seems way too loose and I feel the need to snug up all the nuts and bolts - LOL. Thanks for the replies.
Rodney

joe_padavano

There should be NO torque at the assembly stage. Hell, you can leave the nuts off until you get the weight of the car on the suspension (which means that you can't simply put the bare frame on the wheels - you need the full weight of the assembled car).

cdrod

Got it! No torque until completely finished. Thank you to everyone who commented for the advice.

shamusj

I'm on the same path with my '68 442- just installed my upper and lower control arms (nuts are in place yet not tightened)
I'm concerned in that the drivers side lower control arm swings freely and falls straight down (loose), the passenger side is a more snug- takes a light push to move the arm up and down and will stay in any position it's put in.
Im worried that the machine shop may have tweaked the passenger side control arm a bit- it was a pain to put in- very tight and lots of shoving to get it in place….the drivers side pushed right into position with little effort.
If I understand the final install (after full weight of car is in place)- these bushings are tightened /locked into place.
I'm guessing I don't have a problem yet wanted to get some thoughts.
Thanks

garys 68&72

3 possibilities:
A little corrosion on the cross shaft
One of the bushings is slightly cocked in the arm
The machine shop bent the arm slightly by installing the bushing without support between the end flanges.
Realistically, if it moves by hand, it should be ok.

shamusj

I'm pretty sure the machine shop tweaked them- I tried to save some time by hiring it out and of course I get hosed.
I agree- probably isn't a problem- it does move with minor resistance…once all bolted in should be good. I do appreciate the 2 cents- I can sleep better.
I kind of hijacked this thread- not sure if that's an ok thing to do.

cdrod

Shamusj:
I did my own bushings for that very reason. To keep from bending the arms, I cut out sections of PVC pipe to use as a spacer and used a ball joint tool and some WD40 to squeeze them into place. If it's any consolation, my LH arms fits much more tightly than the RH side, but it still moves freely so I'm sure it will be OK.

GlennLever

Installation instructions for front Upper Control Arms with Bolt Style retainer.

This is retyped and interprets installation instructions in the 1970 Chassis Service Manual for Chevrolet. Chevelle. Monte Carlo. Nova GM A-Body.

Note:All spring attachments, including control arm ball joint stud and control arm bushing bolts, are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense if installed incorrectly. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts.

End cap bolts should not be tighten until vehicle is on the ground (and entire vehicle weight is supported by vehicle springs (motor installed and body panels on)).

• Install upper control arm in vehicle.
• Install Locknuts, bolts retaining upper control arm shaft to frame.
• Install the same number of shims as removed at each bolt.
• Torque bolts retaining upper control arm shaft to frame to 50 ft. lbs. (Bolt Torques Specifications 3).
• Install ball joint stud through steering arm knuckle, install nut, tighten and install cotter pin (no torque specification supplied). This is assuming the lower control arm is already installed.
• Install wheel and tire assembly.
• Lower vehicle to floor.
• Bounce front end of vehicle to centralize bushings and torque bushing collar bolts to 45 ft. lbs. (Bolt Torques Specifications 3).
• Recheck after 50 miles.
  
  
  

Note! Be sure your grease your new Ball Joints, just enough to make the boot start to expand, no more or you could push the boot off.

GlennLever

Installation instructions for front Upper Control Arms with Nut Style retainer.



This is retyped and interprets installation instructions in the 1969 Chassis Service Manual for Oldsmobile. GM A-Body.

Note:All spring attachments, including control arm ball joint stud and control arm bushing bolts, are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense if installed incorrectly. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts.

End cap Nuts should not be tighten until vehicle is on the ground (and entire vehicle weight is supported by vehicle springs (motor installed and body panels on)).

1) Install upper control arm in vehicle.
2) Install Locknuts, bolts retaining upper control arm shaft to frame.
3) Install the same number of shims as removed at each bolt.
4) Torque bolts retaining upper control arm shaft to frame to 75 ft. lbs.
5) Install ball joint stud through steering arm knuckle, install nut, tighten (Torque bolts to 40 ft. lbs) and install cotter pin. This is assuming the lower control arm is already installed.
6) Install wheel and tire assembly.
7) Lower vehicle to floor.
8) Bounce front end of vehicle to centralize bushings and torque bushing collar nuts to 55 ft. lbs.
Note!I have read in several different manuals, which provided different specs for the torque on these nuts ranging from 55 to 75. The important thing here is the bushings should not rotate. They are not a bearing for the control arm shaft to pivot on. The rubber in the control arm bushings is to resist the movement of the control arm.

9) Recheck after 50 miles.


Note! Be sure your grease your new Ball Joints, just enough to make the boot start to expand, no more or you could push the boot off.

GlennLever

Installation instructions for front Lower Control Arms



This is retyped and interprets installation instructions in the 1969 Chassis Service Manual for Oldsmobile. GM A-Body.

Note:All spring attachments, including control arm ball joint stud and control arm bushing bolts, are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense if installed incorrectly. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts.

Lower Control Arm Installation;

• Install control arm ball joint stud in steering knuckle and torque to 80 Foot Pounds and install cotter pin. Tighten further if necessary to install cotter pin.
• Position spring into pilot of frame and into lower control arm.
• Install Spring Compressor Tool BT-6505 and compress spring until lower control arm bushing bolts can be installed

Do not torque bolts at this time. Bolts are to be torqued with weight of the car on the wheels.

• Remove Spring Compressor Tool BT-6505 and install shock absorber, Stabilizer link, Bump Stop, and wheel and tire assembly.
• Remove floor stands and lower car.
• Torque lower control arm bushing nuts to 75 Foot Pounds.
• Recheck after 50 miles.

Note! Be sure your grease your new Ball Joints, just enough to make the boot start to expand, no more or you could push the boot off.

GlennLever

Installation instructions for Rear Upper and Lower Control Arms


This is retyped and interprets installation instructions in the 1969 Chassis Service Manual for Oldsmobile. GM A-Body.

Note:All spring attachments, including control arm ball joint stud and control arm bushing bolts, are important attaching parts in that they could affect the performance of vital components and systems, and/or could result in major repair expense if installed incorrectly. They must be replaced with parts of the same part numbers or with equivalent parts if replacement becomes necessary. Do not use replacement parts of lesser quality or substitute design. Torque values must be used as specified during reassembly to assure proper retention of these parts.

Control arm bushing bolts should not be tighten until vehicle is on the ground (and entire vehicle weight is supported by vehicle springs (motor installed and body panels on)).

Rear Upper Suspension Arms

Installation
1)To install, reverse removal procedure;
“Removal; 1) Raise car and support under axle housing. 2) Remove nut from rear arm to differential housing bolt and while rocking differential, remove bolt. 3) Remove front rear arm attaching nut and bolt. 4) Remove suspension arm and inspect bushing for damage.”

• Loosely tight Control arm bushing bolts.
• Lower vehicle to the ground and torque nuts to 80 Foot Pounds
• Recheck after 500 miles
  
  Rear Lower Suspension Arms
  
  Installation
  1) To install, reverse removal procedure;
  “Removal; 1) Raise car and support under axle housing. 2) Remove nut from rear arm to differential housing bolt and while rocking differential, remove bolt. 3) Remove front rear arm attaching nut and bolt. 4) Remove suspension arm and inspect bushing for damage.”

• Loosely tight Control arm bushing bolts.
• Lower vehicle to the ground and torque nuts to 80 Foot Pounds
• Recheck after 500 miles