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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 18
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Rusty Bolts
I got a new rear bumper for my 69 cutlass. This weekend, I sprayed all the bumper bolts with liquid wrench, and they all started to loosen. Last night, I moved the car to my garage, and the first three bolts came out fine, but the fourth rounded out the hole in the bumper. So I thought, remove the bracket (only two bolts). Well, first one came out great, but the second one ROUNDED OUT THE HOLE! So now I have two problems. I am new to this but willing to learn, and the most common solution I am reading says heat the bolts. Unfortunately, both these areas are adjacent to the gas tank, so that makes me a little nervous. I am going to buy a big vice grip this afternoon and try again. Any other suggestions?
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#2 (permalink) |
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Seasoned beater pilot.
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,516
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Any fastener I don't plan on ever using again gets OxyAcetelene' d into oblivion.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 18
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And what about the gas tank issue? I don't want to be in oblivion with my unwanted fasteners.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Seasoned beater pilot.
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,516
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I'd try using a die grinder.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Landyacht Club President
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Lawton, OK
Posts: 1,242
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I've heard of people using dry ice that you get at the hardware store to cool the bolt. I guess this makes it contract and break free of all of the rust holding it in place. I don't know if this would work to well though, I have never done it. Sounds like a good idea though.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 18
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Thanks for all the ideas. While I was buying my new vise grip pliers, I did purchase some cutting wheels for my dremel tool. After a little more missing skin on my hands, I put the cutting wheel on the dremel and off it came. I am afraid my idea of just cleaning and painting my new toy is going to become a full frame off restoration, so I'm sure I'll have more questions for you guys.
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#7 (permalink) |
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Administrator
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lees Summit MO
Posts: 2,779
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Doc, that is what I was going to recommend. Upside is the tool is smaller and more maneuverable, downside is it takes longer to cut because it is smaller, and the wheels break easier.
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Dan '46 2 door |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Seasoned beater pilot.
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,516
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Break tools, not skin, my friend
![]() That's the path to enlightenment. Even though skin is much cheaper, It takes too long to replace.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Landyacht Club President
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Lawton, OK
Posts: 1,242
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That is a COOL car. It doesn't even look like you would need to restore that car. It looks great the way it is!
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#10 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Southern Illinois, Belleville area
Posts: 64
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tarheeldoc,
From that picture I'd say your 69 looks pretty good as is! Why a "frame off" restoration?
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#11 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 18
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Well, what you can't see from this distance is that the repaint was not very good, and the clear coat is peeling off all over the top surfaces. There is a moderate amount of bubbling rust under the paint, particularly around trim. No through and through holes though that I have found. My friend who is going to help me with the body work, recommended stripping all the paint to fully evaluate the rust and previous repair situations. If I am going to take it apart to that degree, I just figured, I might as well go all the way and do everything at once, so it will last until I can pass it along to my son one day. I got this car from the original owner, who passed along the original window sticker. He decided he would keep his 280ZX instead.
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